Clutch problems

[sjonesd3]

Ok ordered a new flywheel, this is the side by side comparison of the clutch kit minus the flywheel of course.

 

[sjonesd3]

Now I'm having another problem. We put the transmission back on. It's a struggle to get into gear esp 1st, when I took it around the block. Had to basically put it into 3rd while at a complete stop then went into 2nd to be able to make it back home. Went into 4th fine, couldn't get into 5th. And it's also making some grinding noise while trying put in reverse from a stop. What did we do wrong?

 

[sjonesd3]

Yep kind of spongy but it feels different (a lot better) than the last time. Could it still be air in the system?

Shifts like normal with it off. Gonna try that with the compressor. Might have to wait until mom is home so she can keep foot on clutch to keep it down

 

[sjonesd3]

This tool allows you to do it yourself, if you have an air compressor.

https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/brakes/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html

Lol that's the exact one I have too. I tried bleeding with the pedal extended and compressed. Still no luck. When I replaced both hydraulics, I got Duralast, cause I didn't have the money for the OEM from ordering the wrong part originally. Looking at Exedy ones just in case the Duralast ones are done

 

[mymmeryloss]

Did u center the clutch while installing it? Replace throwout bearing?


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[sjonesd3]

Did u center the clutch while installing it? Replace throwout bearing?


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Yep used the alignment tool. Brand new throwout, pilot, and flywheel. Drove it around the block it shifted fine. Let it sit for a while. Drove it further then started acting up. Ended up parking it, don't wanna mess anything up. And have to go back to square one.

 

[sjonesd3]

The pedal should not be depressed when you use the tool. Are you using it correctly? Describe exactly what you did or post a video.

Originally tried the part below with the pedal depressed, didn't notice anything. So I re-did everything but with the pedal all the way up.

1. Put the part with the trigger and hose w/ black rubber part on the bleeder screw.
2. Opened bleeder screw.
3. Squeezed it until the fluid came through & reservoir was getting lower. Made sure not to let it get too low by adding more fluid. As it got lower.
4. As I was squeezing the trigger. closed the screw.

Pedal still felt spongy. Nowhere near as firm as when I originally used the drive it

 

[sjonesd3]

Also when I originally drove around neighborhood it was shifting wayyyyyy better than when I got the car. Like it was going too perfect. So Idk what happened from when I let it sit to driving it again

 

[sjonesd3]

Are the MC and SC new?

Yep Duralast. Bought them, nothing happened then went deeper to the transmission. Decided to park the car, Cause I didn't want another spring to break out of the clutch disc as in the pic I posted. (Idk if I caused that or not, but just wanted to be safe)

 

[sjonesd3]

If there is no fluid leak, then the most likely scenario is that there's still some air trapped in the hydraulic system.

Lol no fluid leak or air. I officially ride the short bus. I did the start in 1st to see that it wasn't disengaging. I bled it correctly.

My mechanic friend came back to look at it. Come to find out, my pedal wasn't high enough. I thought it was supposed to be lower......

Did the test drive it shifted perfect Read that I should take it easy on it, since it's still new. Only thing I'm nervous about is what caused the spring to pop out of the plate? And how to avoid that again.
Ohhh and thanks for the patience

 

[sjonesd3]

Ok bet. Looking for that up now for the adjustment. Lol and no definitely don't wanna drop a tranny again. And I'm gonna order a new slave & master when I get paid just to be safe cause I normally don't trust Duralast. Should I go Honda or get the Exedy ones?

 

[sjonesd3]

Ok now I noticed one of the sensors broke while doing the change. Would anyone happen to know what this goes to? My luck it'll be something that's gonna cause my car to turn into an H-Bomb lol

 

[sjonesd3]

Would it be something that would throw a code? And would it affect normal driving?

 

[sjonesd3]

Alright thanks. I'll order one & see how quick it'll arrive.

I'm trying to check for it. It's only showing the radiator coolant fan switch which I already replaced. Is there another name for it? Sorry about all the questions

 

[sjonesd3]

Nope. No code has been thrown at all. And I've been driving it back & forth to school and work. I'll look online for an oem one. And check the nearby dealer for their price.