Cold Start Problem

[Diana Nam]

I just bought the new plugs and the seafoam, will let you know what I find.

sure, simple way would be to put it at TDC( top dead center) you can get it with out taking head off by take the cylinder number 1 plug (closest to the timing belt) and put a very long rod in it and turn the crank until the rod stops moving up and also take note that the cam gear has a arrow on it should be pointing upward by the teeth of the gear there will be 2 lines engraved directly opposite to each other.

 

[dancam]

Do you have a tachometer on your instrument cluster? From your description i am still not sure if your engine not turning over fast enough is the problem or if its something else.


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[lo-n-slo]

Do you have a tachometer on your instrument cluster? From your description i am still not sure if your engine not turning over fast enough is the problem or if its something else.


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Yes I do. At idle, the needle sits in the middle of 0 and 1k

 

[lo-n-slo]

sure, simple way would be to put it at TDC( top dead center) you can get it with out taking head off by take the cylinder number 1 plug (closest to the timing belt) and put a very long rod in it and turn the crank until the rod stops moving up and also take note that the cam gear has a arrow on it should be pointing upward by the teeth of the gear there will be 2 lines engraved directly opposite to each other.

I'll do more research on that topic and get back to you. I won't even ask more questions about timing until I know what a cam gear is, lol.

 

[HeX]

I'll do more research on that topic and get back to you. I won't even ask more questions about timing until I know what a cam gear is, lol.

Now thats how you start a good learning process, by admitting what you dont know.

 

[lo-n-slo]

Now thats how you start a good learning process, by admitting what you dont know.

Yeah, I've never been one to pretend. At least I know what I don't know. But I do want this car to start running right soon!

 

[Diana Nam]

lol i could show you what it looks like. my has 2 but your will only have 1 its the blue thing that has the timing belt wrapped around it

 

[xxBLOOD88SHOTxx]

When you say it tries to turn over, do you mean the engine is cranking but not firing or the engine is not cranking at all.

 

[lo-n-slo]

When you say it tries to turn over, do you mean the engine is cranking but not firing or the engine is not cranking at all.

Something is turning over but it's just not "catching". The motor does a lot of "coughing" and hear the exhaust attempting to exit the muffler. It's just not really turning over. I try this several times, and if I'm lucky, it starts. Really rough at first like it's about to blow up, and then after 10-30 seconds it levels out and everything seems fine. I wish I had an audio clip or something for you. This is really the best I can explain it. If you've ever tried to start a car with the plug wires out of order that's kinda what it sounds like when trying to start it.

 

[lo-n-slo]

lol i could show you what it looks like. my has 2 but your will only have 1 its the blue thing that has the timing belt wrapped around it

View attachment 27128

Got it, thanks

 

[lo-n-slo]

Update: It was very cold this morning. Thought for sure it wouldn't start. A couple tries and it started fine. I'll be off work early today so I will install the new NGKs and yet another rotor button, which I purchased yesterday. Then I will Sea Foam the injectors with the Deep Creep. I talked to my brother, whom I bought the car from, and he said the car did jump timing once, but not much so it was fixed with a new timing belt. Hopefully it hasn't happened again. Fingers crossed.

 

[Diana Nam]

hm well i hope so too that you didn't skip timing, if it did timing belt might not be tight enough

 

[xxBLOOD88SHOTxx]

Next time you start it, don't quite turn it over (just until the accessories come on). Do this a couple times and wait maybe 4-5 seconds between each cycle, then try to kick it over. So switch accessories, wait 5, back off, switch accessories, then try to start it. Let us know if there is any change.

ALSO, and this is very important...
you're 100% sure the car runs fine. Still getting decent mpg no issues etc?

 

[lo-n-slo]

Next time you start it, don't quite turn it over (just until the accessories come on). Do this a couple times and wait maybe 4-5 seconds between each cycle, then try to kick it over. So switch accessories, wait 5, back off, switch accessories, then try to start it. Let us know if there is any change.

ALSO, and this is very important...
you're 100% sure the car runs fine. Still getting decent mpg no issues etc?

Tried it this morning. No change. Oddly enough, the car has started 3 days in a row now. As far as the car running fine, it doesn't get the mpg that I'd like, but I don't know what to compare it to. I averaged 400 miles to a tank in my D15, and I'm averaging about 280 a tank now, which seems very poor. I can feel a misfire here and there when driving but it's hardly noticeable. If I really get on the gas in about 3rd gear, it will stutter a sec like its starving for fuel and then it accelerates smoothly from that point. I rarely ever take the car above 3K rpms so I don't notice this often. This car doesn't feel any stronger than my EG d15 non vtec.
So yes, driving conservatively like I do, I feel that it runs fine, other than getting poor mpg.

 

[lo-n-slo]

Update: installed NGK V-power plugs today to replace the Autolite cheapies (they look pretty fouled but only 6 months old) I had and it idled noticeably smoother when I started it up. I had to take care of a vc bolt problem, but tomorrow will be replacing the rotor button with a new one. The current one looks fine, but for $15 I figured why not. Also I'll be replacing the oil pan and gasket, and replace oil with high mileage fully synthetic, and since I'll have the manifold off I'll attempt putting an eBay header on to fix my current manifold leak. Will keep you posted on the cold start issue, however it's warmer this weekend so no issues.


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[lo-n-slo]

So far no issues. Hasn't gotten cold again in the last week, so it's hard to say. But with the new NGKs I've had no issues. I'll be embarrassed if that was the problem all along.

 

[HeX]

So far no issues. Hasn't gotten cold again in the last week, so it's hard to say. But with the new NGKs I've had no issues. I'll be embarrassed if that was the problem all along.

Just accept its a lesson learned with a simple resolution.

Did you use the Deep Creep yet?

 

[lo-n-slo]

Just accept its a lesson learned with a simple resolution.

Did you use the Deep Creep yet?

Not yet. Been tied up at work. This weekend I'll clean the fuel injectors, put another rotor button on, change the oil pan, and put the new header on.

 

[lo-n-slo]

Today was the day. Took out the injectors, soaked and cleaned them with the Deep Creep. They were gummy around the edges but not too bad in the center. Replaced my cracked manifold with a header off Amazon and replaced the bank 1 02 sensor. While I was at it I switched out the oil pan and gasket to resolve a leak I had from stripped threads. The car runs much quieter and no more CEL. We will see if this also helps my cold start problem as well. I still can't figure out what's causing my SRS light to stay on all the time.

 

[HeX]

Did you also use the Deep Creep to clean the intake? Remember I suggested to consider using this in place of the Top-Engine cleaner, meaning using this as that can instructs.