Cost of building internals...

T!mmy

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Well I have been thinking about this whole turbo idea and I'm still debating whether ornot I want to go ahead and build it up and boost or boost on stock...The biggest factor is of course money but an extra 2000 bucks isnt much. Now I dont know exactly what it would cost to do a simple build so that I can run 350-400 hp....so there's my question...for a complete build, how much are you looking to safely boost a DAILY DRIVEN car to 350-400?

I would just rather get a loan, build it, be satisfied as opposed to boostin a lil, building later, boostin more, etc...

I would just be happier in the beginning and it'd be done.

thanks
Brian

EDIT: forgot about the F/I section...mod?
 

FRODO

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are you talking resleeve, PnP, etc or just beefy internals?
 


T!mmy

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well to my understanding, sleeving is kind of overdoing it unless you are planning to make more than 500 hp. I could be wrong.

Mainly I am talking about beefy internals and s**t. I just want to safely put down 400ish so....if a resleeve is needed, then yes I am talking about that too.

If a pnp is needed or would make itmore efficient, then yes.

I guess it's like when your oil pump or water pump is going out...might as well go ahead and replace both instead of just one. I just want to go ahead and replace what will be needed to make my desired power so that once I build the engine and turbo...the engine is 'done' as far as performance.
 

FRODO

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Well you could just start with rods, pistons and a better headgasket with some arp hardware. Now for the head i would say atleast some spring and retainers with some beefer cams and valves if you could fit it in the budget. That chould be under $2,000 if you do the work yourself.
 


io_303

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FRODO said:
Well you could just start with rods, pistons and a better headgasket with some arp hardware. Now for the head i would say atleast some spring and retainers with some beefer cams and valves if you could fit it in the budget. That chould be under $2,000 if you do the work yourself.
dont forget getting the internals balanced. Honda owners dont have the luxury of just putting a new rotating assembly in, it all needs to be balanced beacuse of the lack of a harmonic balancer
 

FRODO

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io_303 said:
dont forget getting the internals balanced. Honda owners dont have the luxury of just putting a new rotating assembly in, it all needs to be balanced beacuse of the lack of a harmonic balancer
Yep that to. :lol:
 

io_303

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FRODO said:
Yep that to. :lol:
I had to add that, i see alot of people buy all their stuff and be out of money before they even look into balancing
 

FRODO

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io_303 said:
I had to add that, i see alot of people buy all their stuff and be out of money before they even look into balancing
yeah the pistons, rods and crank should be balanced.
 

T!mmy

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io_303 said:
I had to add that, i see alot of people buy all their stuff and be out of money before they even look into balancing
but if a new aftermarket crank is purchased...is it already balanced?
I have heard of balancing and I always thought it was just done to stock cranks and s**t

And I'm not saying stock cranks arent sufficient...guess things like this are along the lines I'm curious about.

Also how do you figure what kind of C/R you want/need?

I know I have been back and forth on this, I just dont really feel too stable turboing my stock b16a
 

T!mmy

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Also keep in mind, I'm not wanting to just get by....I DO NOT want to have to disassemble the block after I put in my lower compression pistons and s**t

While it's out and apart...I want it all done
 

Inigo Montoya

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slowhatch

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Inigo Montoya said:
400whp is going to more likely than not blow your tranny real quick. (less than 3 months)

anyhow..

tuner toys rods = 225
rods = 419 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SRP-PISTONS-JE-HONDA-B16-CIVIC-SI-VTEC-DEL-SOL-TURBO_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33623QQitemZ8059724018QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW)

sleeving is 800 + shipping (so about 1300).

personally i would fill my block for 100.

assembly, blueprint, and balance is 4-500.
where could this be done? at a tuner shop or machine shop? i thought that everything came prebalanced, besides a new crank. what do they do like if your piston or rod is off balance, and how would a harmonic balancer effect the pistons and rods since its attached to the crank?do they shave some off the side thats heavier? wouldnt that make it not as strong? (like mess with the integrity of the metal)
sorry for all the questions/thread jack. asking questions is better than blowing up an engine
 

Inigo Montoya

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slowhatch said:
where could this be done? at a tuner shop or machine shop? i thought that everything came prebalanced, besides a new crank. what do they do like if your piston or rod is off balance, and how would a harmonic balancer effect the pistons and rods since its attached to the crank?do they shave some off the side thats heavier? wouldnt that make it not as strong? (like mess with the integrity of the metal)
sorry for all the questions/thread jack. asking questions is better than blowing up an engine
definitely at a machine shop. if you go to most performance shops, they don't have the tools, knowledge, or experience to do this, and they just sub it out at a $100-200 charge to you.

everything comes "pre-balanced", but all parts have a level of tolerance (ie .5-1mm). machining that amount of material is insignificant.
 

slowhatch

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so to get everything balanced for a mild build of say 200-250whp is overkill? and when they come pre-balanced they're balanced until a certain hp point? or life point? (like 6months or something)
 

Inigo Montoya

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slowhatch said:
so to get everything balanced for a mild build of say 200-250whp is overkill? and when they come pre-balanced they're balanced until a certain hp point? or life point? (like 6months or something)
STOCK:
250whp for a b-series is doable.
230whp for a d-series is doable.

all in the tuning.

balancing doesn't relate to hp.. its about the rotational mass of the moving parts and how that effects the movement at higher rpms/power. most parts are good to their claimed hp.
 

T!mmy

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well that's the thing...I would like to assemble the engine myself...

I know sleeving and s**t cant be done by myself but how does all that balancing and s**t work? I mean couldn't I get the parts balanced before hand and then just assemble myself?
 

slowhatch

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Inigo Montoya said:
STOCK:
250whp for a b-series is doable.
230whp for a d-series is doable.

all in the tuning.

balancing doesn't relate to hp.. its about the rotational mass of the moving parts and how that effects the movement at higher rpms/power. most parts are good to their claimed hp.
ok, but to be safe i would like to buy rods and pistons for my d, so is it necessary to balance them?
///end thread jack
 

silvertuner98

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best advice in this thread coming up.....



never take out a loan to build an engine unless 100% necessary to get it running
 

io_303

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slowhatch said:
ok, but to be safe i would like to buy rods and pistons for my d, so is it necessary to balance them?
///end thread jack
yes any part of the rotating assembly needs to be balanced beacuse honda internally balance most of their engines.

Rotating assembly is: Clutch(most people dont bother to get these balanced), Flywheel, Crank, Rods, Pistons, and Crank Pully

if you want to go overkill you get the flywheel bolts and clutch bolts balanced too
 

FRODO

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Inigo Montoya said:
sleeving is 800 + shipping (so about 1300).
.
That is crazy. I local machine shop quoted me a $70 bucks to put the sleeves in if i brought them the block.
 


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