d16z6 turbo setup

shawn96

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What kind of clutch set do u have in your car?
What size exhaust do u have or plan on getting?
 

stealthy

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2.5in exhaust. well look at it this way, honestly, worst case scenario is you blow the motor at some point, what do you lose? a cheap d series? you can get another one for cheap, its not like its a b series =)
 


clifford_05

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shawn96 said:
What kind of clutch set do u have in your car?
What size exhaust do u have or plan on getting?
i have stock clutch for now, i havent really thought much about clutch because im not sure what i would want to get. and for exhaust ill prolly just get a custom made 2.5" turbo back exhaust with some kinda muffler on it.


stealthy said:
2.5in exhaust. well look at it this way, honestly, worst case scenario is you blow the motor at some point, what do you lose? a cheap d series? you can get another one for cheap, its not like its a b series =)
yeah i know, my friend got a good running d16z6 with tranny for $500, and thats WAY cheaper then a b series swap, so i mean if it blows, ill just take the turbo off, and put it on another motor. and would anyone have a good suggestion on a clutch kit with flywheel??
 

stealthy

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i just ordered a F1 racing stage 3 six puck clutch and 7.5lb flywheel combo for 300 shipped off of ebay. i normally wouldnt do such a thing, but my friend has been running his for about 4 months on his built b16 w/100shot n20 and has had no problems at all with it
 


clifford_05

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stealthy said:
i just ordered a F1 racing stage 3 six puck clutch and 7.5lb flywheel combo for 300 shipped off of ebay. i normally wouldnt do such a thing, but my friend has been running his for about 4 months on his built b16 w/100shot n20 and has had no problems at all with it
ill have to look into one of those, im not real picky on a clutch really, i was thinkin clutchmasters, act, excedy, or somethin around those lines and get a stage 2 or stage 3, just whatever would be better for me and my around 170-200 hp civic..
 

clifford_05

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also, would anyone know what kind of spark plugs and wires i should run?? i was thinking ngk 2 steps colder spark plugs but i want to make sure those would work alright. and would a regular set of ngk wires work or do they make colder plug wires too??
 

TiiM iiS l3eAsT

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i wouldnt really worry about it....just get the coldest ones u can find.....sparkplugs arent really to big of a issue....
 

Steven.

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Chaos said:
i wouldnt really worry about it....just get the coldest ones u can find.....sparkplugs arent really to big of a issue....
yes they are, dont want teh COLDEST, maybe 1 step below stock
 

clifford_05

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Green 91 said:
yes they are, dont want teh COLDEST, maybe 1 step below stock
well if i went with 2 steps colder, would that really make that big of a difference between 1 step colder?? and would a regular set of ngk wires be fine??
 

Steven.

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probaly be fine with stock, if 2 steps below causes a knock change em out for 1 or stock ones, wires fine
 

clifford_05

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Chaos said:
what isnt colder better?:what:
colder plugs are better but you only need to go 1 step colder on the plugs for every 100hp i believe. this car will prolly have around 200hp with a real good tune when im done, i will prolly only need 1 step colder plugs, 2 is max. when you have 500hp is when you would want like 4 steps colder plugs. so if you have really cold plugs for not alot of hp, i dont think the car would run very good at all.... >`
 

Steven.

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The term "heat range" refers to the relative temperature of the core nose of a spark plug. The words "hot" or "cold," when used in referencing spark plugs, are often a source of confusion and misunderstanding, since normally a hot spark plug is used in a cold engine (low horsepower) and a cold plug in a hot engine (high horsepower). The terms actually refer to the heat rating or thermal characteristics of the plug; more specifically, the plug's ability to dissipate heat from its firing end into the engine cooling system. A cold plug transfers heat rapidly away from its firing end into the cooling system and is used to avoid core nose heat saturation where combustion chamber or cylinder head temperatures are relatively high. A hot spark plug has a much slower rate of heat transfer and is used to avoid fouling where combustion chamber or cylinder head temperatures are relatively low. The primary means of adjusting heat range are by varying the length of the core nose and the alloy material used in the electrodes. Hot plugs have a relatively long insulator nose with a long heat transfer path. Cold plugs have a much shorter insulator nose and thus, transfer heat more rapidly (see illustration; hot to cold - left to right). The heat range of a plug does not affect the power output of an engine. Rather, it allows the plug to function as designed for the duration of the racing event. In other words, once the correct heat range is found that prevents fouling and does not contribute to the pre-ignition or detonation, a change to a hotter or colder plug will not have a positive effect on engine performance.
if its to cold it will foul the plug qickly



The lower the number, the hotter the plug; the higher the number, the colder the plug.
 
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Steven.

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so you basicly need to trial and error with em, try 2 steps, if no good go to 1 step
 

bizoneoeh

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My set up :D

stock internals
dsm 14b turbo
dsm side mount ic
dsm bov
310cc injectors
tuned with an apexi safc2 @8psi (tuned good but there's better out there)
about 186hp to the crank


Soon to come :D
obd1 conversion tuned with uberdata @ 10-14psi with stock internals and 450cc injectors


You don't need to sleeve or build up anything as long as you keep the boost low and a very good tune ;) I would get a better clutch because I ran mine with a stock clutch at first but then installed a ACT street disc with pressure plate and you can feel the difference :shock:
 

stealthy

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get zex hyperformance plugs, i got some *thumbs up*
 


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