Decided to Boost D

[VTECDreaMs]

Well, for those of you who saw my last thread... I've decided to boost a dseries. I just figure i can get more power for my money and me being 17, sounds more ideal. (Plus my insurance would've been nuts with the ITR so i said forget it)

I'm looking for an EG Hatchback(Preferably Si, I want D16ZC) My next question is, if i find one for under 5k...Should I build the ZC and then boost it, tune it.... or leave it stock.. boost it and tune it.(Keep in mind the mileage will probably be high) I'll have around 3-4k to spend on this project.

What do you D-Series guru's think?

 

[itsmycookie]

i would build it then boost it so if you ever wanted to increase the boost later on you would already have the engine built for it. plus with a high milage engine you never know on how high you can safely boost them. better to be safe than sorry and blow it up.

 

[VTECDreaMs]

^^Thats what i was thinking BUT can i build it, and then come up with a good kit for under 4k? I wouldnt be able to do the rebuilding of the motor myself, so think of labor(65$/hr, found a shop) and add that to the tab.

 

[itsmycookie]

it matter wether you;re going to buy a turbo kit or make your own. if you made your own i think you;d be able to build it as well but if you have a turbo kit you might be tight. try asking on http://www.turbod16.com/ there are some awsome people over there who know everything about boosting d-series.

 

[Inigo Montoya]

Si's come with d16z6's notZC's. ZC's are JDM.

Build your own kit... Im feeling generous today so Ill write this rant yet another time....

First and foremost: TUNING.

TUNING
Uberdata. (uberdata.pgmfi.org)
Need: 27c256 chip, 2 1.2ohm resistors, jumper wire, 28 pin ZIP, 28 pin ZIF, Wilems burner, 74HC373 blank chip... digikey 296-1591-5-nd
Optional: Wideband o2, EGT gauge
Cost:
About $70... optional add another $350-500

FUEL
Walbro 255lp
DSM 450cc Injectors
Resistor Box (DSM or Older CRX/Civics)
Cost:
~$200

POWER PARTS:
1st/2nd Gen DSM BOV
2.5" IC/charge piping
MHI Turbos: 14b, 15g, 19g.. GAR: T25, T28, T3, low AR T3/T4
JRIC 5" IC, DSM side, Volvo front, Subby Top...
2.5"/3" Down Pipe
HF,HX, STD manifold (older CRX's)
Cost:
$300-600 depending on how much you shop and look around

MISC
Couplers
Clamps
Oil lines
Vaccum Lines
Boost, Oil Temp, and AF gauge
Cost:
~$200

 

[bmyers4321]

instead of boostin a D why dont you swap in something better then boostin it later. im sure you could find a b16 or b18 and swap it in with some left over. here is one that someone suggested on a diff thread. if not from them look at some local junkyards they might have something.

hmotorsports.com

 

[Inigo Montoya]

instead of boostin a D why dont you swap in something better then boostin it later. im sure you could find a b16 or b18 and swap it in with some left over. here is one that someone suggested on a diff thread. if not from them look at some local junkyards they might have something.

hmotorsports.com

bad idea.

boost is cheaper than a swap and will yield SIGNIFICANTLY higher WHP/WTQ even at low boost levels.

 

[bmyers4321]

bad idea.

boost is cheaper than a swap and will yield SIGNIFICANTLY higher WHP/WTQ even at low boost levels.

yes that is true. but if a b series in the long run will be able to hold more power than a D. that is what i would do. but i am a hp freak. i dont have much on mine cause im stock but i would do the swap cause i would just wanna keep tryin to add more and more. but it is his choice so if he wants the turbo D that is cool. i know i wouldnt mind mine bein turbod. but i would like to swap first.

 

[$lick Rick]

yes that is true. but if a b series in the long run will be able to hold more power than a D.

oh so you're one of those "potential" people

to swap and build a b series to out perform the potential of the d series, you'd probably spend ~$17,000 or more...... that's why %99.9999999999999999999 of people that swap for "potential" never even come CLOSE to the potential of a properly built d series

and if you have $17,000+ to blow on a civic.... then you're an idiot for owning a civic in the first place

 

[Inigo Montoya]

yes that is true. but if a b series in the long run will be able to hold more power than a D. that is what i would do. but i am a hp freak. i dont have much on mine cause im stock but i would do the swap cause i would just wanna keep tryin to add more and more. but it is his choice so if he wants the turbo D that is cool. i know i wouldnt mind mine bein turbod. but i would like to swap first.

your right.. although I've seen b16's throw rods at 250whp just like D-series... bad tuning, but still.

plus 230whp is doable in a D, and thats PLENTY fast for a street car. And after the 200whp mark, it is a necessity to have upgraded brakes and suspension... including traction bars or a lsd so you don't snap your axles.

D is a nice $ check.. easy to replace.. good performance.. don't necessarily have to upgrade everything to run right... of course this is MHO..

 

[bmyers4321]

your right.. although I've seen b16's throw rods at 250whp just like D-series... bad tuning, but still.

plus 230whp is doable in a D, and thats PLENTY fast for a street car. And after the 200whp mark, it is a necessity to have upgraded brakes and suspension... including traction bars or a lsd so you don't snap your axles.

D is a nice $ check.. easy to replace.. good performance.. don't necessarily have to upgrade everything to run right... of course this is MHO..

i agree with you totally. ask for hp there is no such thing as enough for me.

and yes slick rick i am one of those "potential" people. i know it sounds crazy to spend money to make a civic fast but that is the fun in building a fast car not buying one.

 

[$lick Rick]

and yes slick rick i am one of those "potential" people. i know it sounds crazy to spend money to make a civic fast but that is the fun in building a fast car not buying one.

remember though, buying a motor to having the potential and not using all of it is just a complete waste of money

 

[bmyers4321]

remember though, buying a motor to having the potential and not using all of it is just a complete waste of money

agreed

 

[stolle]

if it were me i would get a dx with a d15 if your boosting you dont really need to worry about displacment or vtec for that matter the dx is gonna be cheaper too...

you dont need a bigger fuel pump just use some dsm 450s and a resistor box, uberdata, for low boost and an internally wastegated turbo i wouldnt go with exhaust bigger than 2.5" if you do you will get boost creep like a mofo, use a hf or standard manifold you will need an adapter plate for whatever turbo you will be using do a search on www.homemadeturbo.com . i recommend an IHI rhb5 turbo its relativly small and internally gated at 7 psi which is perfect for a stock motor if your concerned about longevity its compact and easy to work with and spools quick nice for driving around town . you can also use the intercooler from a ford probe (same car the rhb5 came from) along with the BOV since i have noticed that the probes are more likley to be in junkyards you can get a turbo on your car for dirt cheap for oil lines use bake hard line its cheap and works well last time i did oil lines i spent $4.17 on oil lines you cant beat that you could get all the hoses and fittings you need from ne parts store for under $100 dollars maybe even cheaper...
nemore questions?

 

[24-7]

i would build it then boost it so if you ever wanted to increase the boost later on you would already have the engine built for it. plus with a high milage engine you never know on how high you can safely boost them. better to be safe than sorry and blow it up.

I agree

 

[Inigo Montoya]

if it were me i would get a dx with a d15 if your boosting you dont really need to worry about displacment or vtec for that matter the dx is gonna be cheaper too...

you dont need a bigger fuel pump just use some dsm 450s and a resistor box, uberdata, for low boost and an internally wastegated turbo i wouldnt go with exhaust bigger than 2.5" if you do you will get boost creep like a mofo, use a hf or standard manifold you will need an adapter plate for whatever turbo you will be using do a search on www.homemadeturbo.com . i recommend an IHI rhb5 turbo its relativly small and internally gated at 7 psi which is perfect for a stock motor if your concerned about longevity its compact and easy to work with and spools quick nice for driving around town . you can also use the intercooler from a ford probe (same car the rhb5 came from) along with the BOV since i have noticed that the probes are more likley to be in junkyards you can get a turbo on your car for dirt cheap for oil lines use bake hard line its cheap and works well last time i did oil lines i spent $4.17 on oil lines you cant beat that you could get all the hoses and fittings you need from ne parts store for under $100 dollars maybe even cheaper...
nemore questions?

i agree all in all, except for boostin the d15. the rods are sooo puny.. id rather keep the motor and buy a cheap d16a6/z6/y8/zc for boost.. then have a spare for if anything goes wrong.

 

[boostedcivicd15]

i would build it then boost it so if you ever wanted to increase the boost later on you would already have the engine built for it. plus with a high milage engine you never know on how high you can safely boost them. better to be safe than sorry and blow it up.

i blew my d15, it cost me $175 for a new engine AND a new transmission. they had 80k on them... i could blow 6 engines for what it would cost for me to build one... u decide

 

[boostedcivicd15]

i agree all in all, except for boostin the d15. the rods are sooo puny.. id rather keep the motor and buy a cheap d16a6/z6/y8/zc for boost.. then have a spare for if anything goes wrong.

mine held twelve psi daily for 3 months. and it only went because the wastegate broke and it spiked up to 17psi, pegged the damn boost gauge. this engine had 200k, no smoking, ran perfect (dialed out the a/f ratios on the wideband, and it allowed me to monitor it while driving), and screamed like a demon.

 

[itsmycookie]

i blew my d15, it cost me $175 for a new engine AND a new transmission. they had 80k on them... i could blow 6 engines for what it would cost for me to build one... u decide

i choose reliability-
-
ps your sig is way TOO big. max size is 500 x 100. change it or it will be deleted.

 

[VTECDreaMs]

Well thanks for all of of the replies.

Now I just need to find a car.

If anyone knows of anyone selling one in Wisconsin, let me know some info. I cant really find exactly what I'm looking for. I want to spend 5k or less on the car, and about 3k to boost/supporting mods.

I still havent decided whether or not to build, I think at first im just going to boost considering im 17 and i need a car to get around and to my jobs. I dont really have the time to let the car sit in the shop and get built. More opinions would be appreciated.

TIA.