Does Dynamat Work?

aznboyrice

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Dynamat is heavy if you do your entire trunk which could be a good 15 to 20lbs. I matted my floor board, doors, and trunk w/ fatmat and it was about 90 lbs all together. Other brands I recommend are edead v3. Stuff is easy to put on and you get the same results.
 

wannabe

law abiding smog tech
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Akiahara96 said:
wannabe, dynamat isn't THAT heavy. if you use a ton, yes, it'll add weight, but have you ever held dynamat? actually touched it? it's not THAT bad.
wannabe said:
yeah i heard that you only want to use as little as possible cause that s**t weighs a ton. but i have no personal experience with it.
 


DFlannery

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aznboyrice said:
Sound Deadening increases SPL in your car, not outside. Yes, sound deadening will reduce some sound coming out of the car but the point of dynamat is to increase SPL IN your car and vibrations.
Sound dampening products like Dynamat and Cascade are treatments used to absorb sound. These materials prevent sound from entering the car, reducing the noise floor. These materials also absorb low frequencies that cause resonance of materials. It may increase SPL in some cases, but the overall effect is better sound quality.
 

boostd92

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I'm nearly done with my Lexifying process (making my EK quiet like a Lexus). I've laid down 2-3 layers of Raammat in the trunk area, 2 layers on the floors under the front seats, 2 layers on the inside wheel weels and inside of the outer panel. One layer on the inside of the hatch panel, one layer on the roof. I then bought a few coats of rubberized sprayable undercoating and gave EVERYTHING a nice medium coat.

Next, I bought a few cubes of non-fiberglass insulation (like shredded carpet padding). Filling the quarters and wheel wells with it, and then using aluminum sheeting to seal the access holes. This will NOT let me fix dings from the inside anymore, but I have shaved moldings that wouldn't let me do that anyway. After this, the aluminum sheets will get a layer of Raammat.

Next, I cover the whole floor and walls with a layer of dry-cell foam. On top of this goes about .5-1" of carpet padding. All of the interior body panel seems will get fabric taped, and then it all goes back together.

I'm saving the doors until I get my power armrests recovered, and install my power windows.

The system should sound amazing when i'm done. When you take on a sound-deadenning project like this, it makes even crappy old stock speakers sound amazing because you don't loose any of the sound to vibration, or distort any of the sound with car-sounds.

It's a TON OF WORK. I've been doing it here and there in my free time and it's been about a month and I'm not done. It's not too expensive (about $350 in materials) for the results... it changes the car completely.

As for weight... Raammat weighs 0.5lbs per square foot. I used about 120sq. ft, so I added about 60lbs of weight. The foam, carpet padding, and undercoating weigh <15lbs.

Another good way to quiet your civic is to actually go to one of those Ziebart undercoating places. They coat the underside of the car with a layer of spray-on rubber (much like trucks bedliner), that keeps it from rusting, and keeps winter harshness from eating away the underside. A positive benefit is that it GREATLY reduces road noise and other vibrations. Typically it would take about 10lbs of material.

All in all, with the sub box and amp, I'll probably be adding about 150lbs to my hatch. Right now it runs a 14.4@98mph with a stock GSR motor, with I/E. I plan to go turbo in the spring, and 150lbs will be meaningless when you're boosted.... just add one pound of boost.
 


Rudy

New Member
5+ Year Member
Some good information, some not so much =)

There are two basic classes of mat-type sound deadeners - those made with asphalt and those made with butyl. Cascade VB-Max, Dynamat Xtreme, Second Skin Damplifier and RAAMmat are all butyl. Cascade and Second Skin are higher quality than Dynamat X, RAAMmat slightly lower quality, but all will get the job done. The new eDead is also butyl based, but they use a Mylar constraining layer that is much less effective than the typically used aluminum foil.

Stay away from asphalt. It is much less effective, very likely to fall off or melt during hot summers and it leaches toxic fumes. Dynamat Original, FatMat and R-Blox are all asphalt. R-Blox has the additional disadvantage of using Mylar. FatMat is Peel & Seal that you can buy at Lowes or Home Depot form much less. If you are determined to use asphalt, just buy Peel & Seal.

The primary role for any of these products is to damp vibrations. This reduces rattles and resonance and blocks noise transmission both in to and out of the car. The project will be significantly enhanced by adding some closed cell foam like Ensolite or Neoprene on top of the vibration damper. This absorbs sound and reduces reflections.

I'm the one who did the product comparo so you might find some more information there.
 

Rudy

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As has also been mentioned, sound deadening will not absolutely kill rattles, it will reduce the transmission of vibrations that cause rattles, but it is important to treat the source before you apply sound deadening. Silicone caulk, foam tap and gaskets are your friends. Find the source and treat. Rattles are the result of two solid pieces coming into contact. Isolate and imobilize.
 

JDMCoupe97

Morgan
5+ Year Member
i have a 97 coupe dx, does anyone know why when i close my doors they rattle? i tighted all the bolts in the door behind the panel and used that spray rubber stuff and it still does it??
 

cujo613

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JDMCoupe97 said:
i have a 97 coupe dx, does anyone know why when i close my doors they rattle? i tighted all the bolts in the door behind the panel and used that spray rubber stuff and it still does it??
Take the spare change outta the door pocket
 


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