Drastic MPG drop ?

MP1975

New Member
Picture of tough screw to get out of fuel filter, wasn't sure.




That did cross my mind only because the well is so deep on this car and the air filter fits in, snug, but it fits in. I was going to ask here post the part number and bring the old one with the new box to Advanced Auto tomorrow to see what they say. I'm lucky a few guys in the store near me know something about cars as opposed to the pep boys by me- USELESS.

Gimme a few for the fuel filter pic.

one

OK I took 3 picture, went to the browse area here, found my images it brought me to a IMAGESHACK site I signed in now how do I get the photos here ! No matter what I try does not work.

https://imageshack.com/i/ipa96de9j


https://imageshack.com/i/f0d74cefj



https://imageshack.com/i/p8a0169ej

 
Last edited by a moderator:

RonJ

Banned
You can make pictures display by pasting the IMG code of each picture into your post.

Soak the bolt in PB blaster - overnight. Use a flare wrench on that bolt and steady the filter with a second wrench placed on the bolt at the top of the filter itself (se diagram). You'll find that orienting the wrenches in a V-formation that allows for a convenient scissor-like squeeze action will break the bolt loose pretty damn quick.

 


Attachments

MP1975

New Member
I see the image code but I do not see the pictures ?

Anyway it's not one of the screws ON the filter that's my problem it's the screw that HOLDS the filter in place with the wrap around metal piece around the filter it self. From what I can gather the only way is with a deep
socket.....Suggestions , why I'm here.

Thanks again for the time.
 

RonJ

Banned
Doesn't your picture show the bolt holding the fuel line that runs to the fuel rail.

Post a clear picture of the bolt in question.
 


MP1975

New Member
I tried it just so dark and reset.....Let me try to explain this better. I know you know your s**t .......
There are 3 areas that need to be loosened to take the old filter off and put the new one in...
First is on the top of the filter it self...Use two wrenches, comes right off....
Second is on the bottom of the filter it self again two wrenches comes right off....
Third, my problem, is the screw or bolt that holds the wrap around guard to the filter that's connected to the
fire wall, car frame, not sure of the exact car terminology but it's recessed midway between the top and bottom of the fuel filter all the way in the back. I know I can get it with a deep socket. I Just do not own one.
 

RonJ

Banned
MP1975 said:
I tried it just so dark and reset.....Let me try to explain this better. I know you know your s*** .......
There are 3 areas that need to be loosened to take the old filter off and put the new one in...
First is on the top of the filter it self...Use two wrenches, comes right off....
Second is on the bottom of the filter it self again two wrenches comes right off....
Third, my problem, is the screw or bolt that holds the wrap around guard to the filter that's connected to the
fire wall, car frame, not sure of the exact car terminology but it's recessed midway between the top and bottom of the fuel filter all the way in the back. I know I can get it with a deep socket. I Just do not own one.
Click to expand...
The solution is simple.

First remove the 2 bolts and 1 nut securing the filter bracket to the firewall (see diagram I posted). The entire assembly can now be removed, giving you access to the hidden bolt.
 

lethal6

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MP1975 said:
Suggestion noted. Try it this afternoon.


I also found out why this new air filter is a different depth then the old one. The new one is if you have a VTEC engine , which I do, and the thinner one is if you do not have a VTEC engine.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Air+Filter/02512/C0023.oap?year=1996&make=Honda&model=Civic&vi=1168882

I'm just going to leave it in. Maybe this can help someone if they come across the same situation.

Thanks again.
Click to expand...
This may very well be true, but I wouldn't put to much stock into what an o'reillys catalog says. I would find out from the source (eg: Honda) to make sure. Chain parts stores are notorious for messing stuff up and most of the time it is because they are putting trust into "universal" catalogs that don't hold much truth.
 

MP1975

New Member
What a retarded place to put a screw. Took it off, put new one on, started car tested for leaks, screwed everything back into place, tested for leaks again, took it for a ride. All seems good.

https://imageshack.com/i/ey21d4c8j


Now I see what MPG i get out of this tankful and see what happens.


And it looks like its back to the drawing board on the Air Filter. Filter update------The one I took out was 1 1/4 inches the new one is much closer to the specs given here at what I am understanding to be a Honda parts site.

http://www.hondapartssales.com/lisle/jsp/item.jsp?srchwords=17220-P2N-A01

Thanks all post when this tankful runs out with new, hopefully improved, MPG.
 

MP1975

New Member
Don't have a light gun but can rent one from advance auto. Not sure how to do it but I can you tube.


Throw something past you...... I gapped my spark plugs at .044 the manual says .04 ? Should I regap them or leave it alone ?
 

RonJ

Banned
MP1975 said:
Not sure how to do it but I can you tube.
Click to expand...
Be sure to verify ANY video procedure with the service manual/bible. Download it from site 1 in my signature.

Throw something past you...... I gapped my spark plugs at .044 the manual says .04 ? Should I regap them or leave it alone ?
Click to expand...
Proper gap = 0.043 in/1.1 mm (see service manual)

You're probably okay.
 

MP1975

New Member
I opened the hood and do not see that "window" to use to judge the timing anywhere. I looked in the manual and the only little blurb it has on ignition timing says it's done automatically.

Update - I found the POINTER marker but do not see any red or white markings. Also going forward, I have a D16Y8, in threads I have found to this specific engine type it says to hold the timing light directly down, if they mean the pointer mark (V Shaped metal part) it's right under the bolts and arm that hold the shock. Would be impossible. One more step ahead, it appears I have to physically move the distributor , do I just keep moving it and turning the car on and off until I get 12 BTDC ? LOL

Confused to say the least.

Thanks again.

Update - Friend at work checked my timing during his lunch and all is fine. Nest update when I refill the tank and get new MPG. Hopefully it will be back to 32-35 and we'll call this done.
 

MP1975

New Member
Verdict is in 345/11.2=30.8

Not what I was hoping for. Where do I go next ?
Only thing on my list right now is to change the PCV valve but that will have to wait due to it's location.
 

Wreckless Hype

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MP1975 said:
Verdict is in 345/11.2=30.8

Not what I was hoping for. Where do I go next ?
Only thing on my list right now is to change the PCV valve but that will have to wait due to it's location.
Click to expand...
11.2 is around tank capacity. Did you actually PUT 11.2 gal in it, or did you put closer to 10 in it? Because that sounds like exactly what I normally get, and my girlfriend, and we both have 2000 EX 5 speed with same D16Y8. This sounds totally normal to me.
 

MP1975

New Member
11.9 is tank capacity and I looked 3 times 110% sure 11.2

I also learned my indicator bulb for low fuel is out. It worked just a few weeks ago, It was on !!
I also hit the mutha of al pot holes coming home / bottomed out and now my muffler is loud. Didn't even look at it yet. Totally disgusted. When it rains it pours.
 

Wreckless Hype

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MP1975 said:
11.9 is tank capacity and I looked 3 times 110% sure 11.2
Click to expand...
These are valid questions we need to ask, not everyone is as inclined to read manuals and factory specs as you, sir :lol:

MP1975 said:
I also learned my indicator bulb for low fuel is out. It worked just a few weeks ago, It was on !!
I also hit the mutha of al pot holes coming home / bottomed out and now my muffler is loud. Didn't even look at it yet. Totally disgusted. When it rains it pours.
Click to expand...
I've gone through 4 clusters and have never had a working gas light. I've also never ran my car down to .7 gallons :shock:

Likely your muffler is rusted out anyway, if you're really from NJ. s**t, my last coupe, the muffler tip fell off while I was driving, the mid pipe split twice, and then the coupe de grace was what was left of the muffler, falling off and bouncing off the road, up into my car by means of the rubber hangers and the muffler bouncing off the road trying to escape. I know that pain :lol: Even if you go with a RockAuto replacement, it'll cost you like $60-70 for everything and take you half and hour to swap it out.

About your PCV, I've heard of people cleaning them, but I don't personally know enough about it to start messing with it, so I leave well enough alone unless instructed to do so otherwise, by way of troubleshooting, etc.
 

MP1975

New Member
Dude lol I know their all valid questions. One rare thing I know, tank capacity, and looking at that frigging pump again and again.....it was 11.2 and it killed me. I truly appreciate all the help here.

The muffler broke off at the neck from the muffler back toward the engine but it looks like the whole thing is one piece ? If I can get away under a c-note I'd be happy.

Yeah live i Jersey, since 98, travel 287 from start to 55 every damn day.

The PCV , I've read it's much better to get one from Honda then a chain store ? They are cheap enough mine is coming out once I can do it. I also replaced the O2 Sensor a month ago that's how I know the CEL light works.

When I go the car the owner told me lights in teh dash were out and the center console where you see what gear your in, 4 in all, I changed them out first weekend I had the car. That's how I know they all worked. 18 years old......Bulbs go. BUT , I do check them.

Thanks again very much.
 
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