Help for my ek3 modifications

[d15z6ek3]

I have a 2000 ek3 1.5i vtec-e d15z6 civic naturally aspirated, and i want to change intake and exhaust manifolds and high flow fuel rails, but all im thinking is that i would need a repro to adapt the settings to the new parts. My question is is it worth? Because i think i would have to change my ecu to OBD1 and purchase a Hondata3000. Would i notice the changes if i dont do the repro?

 

[d15z6ek3]

If you upgrade the intake, exhaust manifolds, and fuel rail, but don’t tune the ECU, you might not get the full performance benefit. The stock ECU won’t adjust properly for the new parts, so you could end up with poor fuel economy or less power.

Switching to an OBD1 ECU and using Hondata S300 would let you tune the car to fully match the new parts, giving you noticeable gains.

So, if you want the best results, it’s worth doing the tuning. If not, you’ll still see some improvement, but not as much.

Thank you bro, i will think about this

 

[nd4sped]

Intake manifold and exhaust manifold do not require a fuel rail upgrade. You wont surpass the OE injector duty cycle yet. Also since you haven't surpassed the injector duty cycle the factory ECU can handle any adjustments to fuel that will be needed by difference in air volume of the new intake manifold.

So with that said, save money on the Hondata and fuel rail. Also save your money on the manifolds as you will not net much HP from a stock internal D15 VTEC-E (VTEC-economy). Save all of your money for the following.

Best bang for your buck will be a B series swap. Even the non-VTEC B18A/B or B20B/Z engines will have a higher hp and torque to start off with. All B series cylinder heads have higher air flow rates than all D series heads.

Save your money for the swap, you can get nearly all the parts you need from the salvage yard for huge discounts. Engine mounts are about the only thing you will need to buy and you can find plenty of off brand mounts on eBay and Amazon.

 

[d15z6ek3]

Intake manifold and exhaust manifold do not require a fuel rail upgrade. You wont surpass the OE injector duty cycle yet. Also since you haven't surpassed the injector duty cycle the factory ECU can handle any adjustments to fuel that will be needed by difference in air volume of the new intake manifold.

So with that said, save money on the Hondata and fuel rail. Also save your money on the manifolds as you will not net much HP from a stock internal D15 VTEC-E (VTEC-economy). Save all of your money for the following.

Best bang for your buck will be a B series swap. Even the non-VTEC B18A/B or B20B/Z engines will have a higher hp and torque to start off with. All B series cylinder heads have higher air flow rates than all D series heads.

Save your money for the swap, you can get nearly all the parts you need from the salvage yard for huge discounts. Engine mounts are about the only thing you will need to buy and you can find plenty of off brand mounts on eBay and Amazon.

Thank you for the advice bro, but im pretty new in modifications and idk if i could handle a swap. I was thinking about swapping the cylinder head from my d15z6 to the d16z6. Idk if that would make a difference. But the swap to a B or a K series i think i will do it but more in the future when i know how to do them and have more money to spend.

 

[nd4sped]

B Series swap is a lot easier than you think. Its practically a drop in swap. Its simple because honda offered the EJ/EK/EM chassis with the B series engines in multiple trims. So you can find all the parts you need in salvage, well most of the parts you need. You will need to purchase the engine mounts, but virtually everything else can be found in salvage for a low low price.

Watch you local salvage yards for holiday specials like "All you can Carry for $50".

 

[nd4sped]

The mini-me swap is doable as well, I dont recall all that is necessary for the head swap off the top of my head. There are plenty of resources on how to do the Mini-Me head swap on this forum though.

 

[Brak]

IMHO...
Swapping head is much more difficult than swapping an engine.

Engine is just held in with bolts. a hoist is a cheap investment.

 

[d15z6ek3]

B Series swap is a lot easier than you think. Its practically a drop in swap. Its simple because honda offered the EJ/EK/EM chassis with the B series engines in multiple trims. So you can find all the parts you need in salvage, well most of the parts you need. You will need to purchase the engine mounts, but virtually everything else can be found in salvage for a low low price.

Watch you local salvage yards for holiday specials like "All you can Carry for $50".

I'll see what i do, you are making me rethink the project thanks bro

 

[nd4sped]

I'll see what i do, you are making me rethink the project thanks bro

If you move forward with the project make sure to update us on everything that happens. We may be able to help you along the way. Oh ya, we need pictures of this car

 

[d15z6ek3]

If you move forward with the project make sure to update us on everything that happens. We may be able to help you along the way. Oh ya, we need pictures of this car

Before you say anything about the stickers on the front bumper i have to say in my defense they were from the last owner lmao (The sticker in the windshield i put it myself). Now i'm working on buying a carbon fiber front lip mugen or spoon style and i'll be getting the stickers out and get it clean (Get all the scars of the bumpers and the body repaired). I don't remember where i have the photos of the motor bay but i'll do some more.

 

[nd4sped]

The 99-00 was the best body style hands down.