"Kurisutin" - 1993 Civic Del Sol - Maintenance Log

[nd4sped]

So, swapping an engine still sounds incredibly easy to f**k up Also, DOHC is scary. What would I be looking for? Something pulled out of a parts car? I don't see any B series online for less than a few thousand.

God dammit, this is what happens when you are reading multiple threads and reply and its ends up being the wrong post you're replying too.

 

[ctag]

B swaps are damn near plug and play. So easy man.

So I'm interested in my red civic being gas-economic and fairly stock The blue Del Sol.. I'm not sure. It sounds like fun.
ALSO, I've been reading your truck build thread (have no idea why I hadn't already). I'm only 10% through the 5,000 posts, but it's pretty amazing stuff

God dammit, this is what happens when you are reading multiple threads and reply and its ends up being the wrong post you're replying too.

Took the car to a local mechanic today and had him evacuate the AC lines so that I can pull the loop out later. Best to get this over with before the weather warms and I get the idea to try fixing or replacing the compressor.
Cost: $42.48

Also did a little more work today.
Date: 11-1-2016
Cost: $21.79 (yes, the same price as the last post. yes, I checked)
Tasks:

• Replace leaking VTEC solenoid gaskets.

Parts arrived

Decided to get the car inside and do as much work while the engine was toasty warm. Damn it's cold.

The culprit.

The gaskets were 100% done and over with. Also, the kit I bought came with an extra? And the filter on the smaller one was facing the wrong way, so I had to pop it out of the gasket and turn it around.

Trying to clean the two surfaces. Ha.

Cleaned up. Best I can do when it's freezing.

Gasket in place. Did the thing from oil filters and dabbed a bit of oil on the gasket with a prayer that it'll seal better this time.

Installed.

I don't know if that fixed the problem, because the engine's already coated in so much existing oil. I guess I'll find out in a few days. If it's still leaking I'm just going to lose my mind and douse the block in RTV

That's all for now.

 

[XpL0d3r]

This is an awesome build thread already. Good luck with this man!

Also, if you do plan on B-series (I too, recommend!), just keep looking around and you'll find something. I found my LS motor for $1100 nearly complete (was missing ECU and axles).

I'm looking forward to seeing progress on this car regardless of what motor though

 

[mymmeryloss]

Thanks. Skip to the middle/end of the build as a ton of s**t has changed and you will pleasantly surprised.

 

[R3dline]

alabama? what part?

 

[ctag]

This is an awesome build thread already. Good luck with this man!

Also, if you do plan on B-series (I too, recommend!), just keep looking around and you'll find something. I found my LS motor for $1100 nearly complete (was missing ECU and axles).

I'm looking forward to seeing progress on this car regardless of what motor though

Thanks I'll keep my eyes open and we'll see what happens. First up is to make the car nice and fun to drive again, I'm not to keen on a heart transplant if the chassis keeps making these awful crunching and squealing noises during turns

Thanks. Skip to the middle/end of the build as a ton of s**t has changed and you will pleasantly surprised.

Nuhuh, no cheating from me

alabama? what part?

Heheh, question sounded familiar I'm still in Huntsville, gonna leave as soon as I can get away from this s**t college though.

Non-temporary insurance papers showed up yesterday.

I got home last night and it looked like the oil leak was definitely unfixed, fresh oil over some parts of the engine Gotta wait for warmer weather and then hunt it down. I'm honestly curious to know just how many holes this engine has in it, what else is there to leak?

 

[ctag]

Can see a paycheck, time to start turning the list of issues into a list of purchases. I've got a lot of apprehension here; don't even know what all I'm going to need, much less where to get it.

 

[ctag]

Parts are in the mail. I'm pretty nervous. I tried to shop around and keep the order reasonable, I know this cost is nothing compared to what others here have thrown down.. But it's a lot to me.

RockAuto etcetera: $421.50
eBay Headers: $45.28
eBay Oil pan: $38.40
eBay wheel and seat covers: $35.18
Helicoils: $44.73
Total: $585

With this I should be able to:
- Install AC bypass pulley
- Replace clutch
- Replace CV axles
- Replace thermostat
- Replace motor mounts
- Replace timing belt + water pump
- Repair exhaust manifold studs
- Replace pcv valve
- Replace distributor cap and spark plug wires
- Replace door handles
- Replace stripped oil pan
- Repair oil pan studs
- Replace cracked exhaust manifold

I have no idea if I actually need the things I bought, or if I'm missing things I didn't buy. I guess I'll find out sooner or later.

I don't have a solution lined up yet... but I really need to fix the leaking seals before I try recovering the interior, or the rain will just ruin it again. leaks directly onto the driver side seat.

 

[HeX]

Well, you wanted this to be a learning lesson and it definitely is. In the end you'll be able to say you got it all running well and feel added pride for doing so yourself.

 

[ctag]

Oh, yeah, parts arrived. Waiting on school and weather to get things moving again.

Well, you wanted this to be a learning lesson and it definitely is. In the end you'll be able to say you got it all running well and feel added pride for doing so yourself.

Dude, totally! Just gotta find the time and get psyched up for it.

 

[ctag]

It's raining (and cold) again today.

I bought some silicon grease and shoe-goo after reading around briefly online. As best I can tell, there's a tear in the corner of the driver side weatherstrip that's letting water funnel into the cabin rather than down the edge of the door. I'm going to pull the driver door panel off, take a look at the window assembly to see why the window rolls up too high. Then use the shoe repair glue on the rubber, and go over everything with the silicon grease (since people are conflicted about Armor-All) to try and keep the seals from degrading more.

That's the plan at least.

 

[dancam]

Dont use armorall... It doesn't look that nice and as far as i know it still prevents you from ever getting a nice paint job.


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[buzzbombtom]

Dont use armorall... It doesn't look that nice and as far as i know it still prevents you from ever getting a nice paint job.


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Huh?

 

[dancam]

Its full of silicon. Causes fisheyes in paint.


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[ctag]

Its full of silicon. Causes fisheyes in paint.

When applying new paint, or in already set paint? I'm pretty sure the silicone grease also has some silicone in it too..

 

[dancam]

Applying new, lol, ya. Brain fart there. Silicon grease is most likely way worse, but are you planning to paint it?


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[ctag]

Applying new, lol, ya. Brain fart there. Silicon grease is most likely way worse, but are you planning to paint it?

Phew. Yeah, I'm not planning on painting anytime soon. And if I do I'll make sure everything gets scrubbed down well beforehand.

 

[dancam]

Looks like you will be painting it at some point. Just try to only wipe it on the rubber, not the entire surrounding area like people like to do with armorall. Then use 99% rubbing alcohol to clean it before painting after you remove the rubber.
Are your windows frameless? I cant tell from the pics.


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[mymmeryloss]

I sure hope if u paint the car that you properly prep it. You should have no problems with either of these if u do that.

 

[ctag]

Are your windows frameless? I cant tell from the pics.

Yeah, the top of the window just meets weatherstrip on the roof.

I sure hope if u paint the car that you properly prep it. You should have no problems with either of these if u do that.

If I try to go painting the car at some point, I'll do it with the intent of doing it right. Otherwise there's no point
And really, if I find money to paint the car, I'll find money to properly replace the weatherstrip and window assemblies.

I tried applying Shoe-Goo to the ripped sections of weatherstrip today. It dried to match the shape pretty well, but doesn't appear to be sticking to the rubber.

So in the pursuit of fixing the cabin leak:
- I see tears and rips in the weatherstrip that may let water through.
- And a misalignment where the driver side window doesn't match the frame anymore; which could also be letting water in.
- Maybe something unknown. Like a cracked seam (which was the case on my Mothership/Civic).

I'd like to fix both of those first two issues, but I really still don't know how water's making it's way into the cabin.

I also took the door panel/trim off to take a look at the window assembly on the driver side. Was hurried to leave for class so I don't have any pictures, but I can't find the cause of the window being out of alignment. When rolled up, the back corner of the window sits about half an inch too high to seat correctly in the weatherstrip. I'll try to get some pictures later.