Need help/advice

junior1023

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What do I need to put in my car to make it so the sound is clearer when the volume is higher? Right now I just have the stock speakers and a panasonic CD player. Any higher than volume 22(not very loud) and the sound gets distorted. Thanks guys
 

a100100

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install a 4 channel amplifier
install 4 new speakers
install capacitor
install subwoofer and subwoofer amplifier
dynamat every piece of metal you can see under all panels and carpet

start off with the first thing
 


TheWingMang

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New speakers. You don't need to go balls out on it with amps and subs and such, just get some good pioneer/polk/whatever speakers. That alone could be enough for you. If you want better sound after that hook up an amp. But try just new speakers first.
 

qwikxr

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cough cough bullshit

you don't need a friggin capacitor.. half the s**t he named it fixing the problem.. speakers, yes. The stock speakers are not really designed to handle much more wattage than the stock radio, which is usually around 5-15W..
Your Panasonic radio probly puts out probably 40-50w X 4.. it's overdriving the speakers, or they're about dead, anyway.. They are distorting, due to this.
Start with that, as that will aid in making the sound more CLEAR, which is what you were asking for..
If you fell you need more power at that point, then there are other routes you can take, like adding a 4 channel amp (like 50x4 {which is a cleaner 50w than the head unit can produce}) use channels 1/2 for the front speakers, let the head unit drive the rears, since they are really only for "fill" audio, and bridge channels 3/4 to a single 10" subwoofer or something.. It'll be nice, clean, not overdone, and will possibly yield you what you are after..

As for dynomat.. putting it under the carpet is one of the goofiest things I've heard, since there's already sound deadening material there from the factory.. If you decide to use it, then place it in the inner doorskins, rear sections that outer metal is visible from the inside, and such.. and you dont have to cover the entire metal panel.. Like a 12"x12" section, cut in half, is plenty for say, a trunklid..
Cheers and beers.
 


cujo613

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Capacitors aint worth a crap unless you have the alternator to back it up.

I never agreed with the rear fill idea. Amp your speakers at an equal level. If you are going to amp it, you might as well do it right and not leave a break in the chain. If you decide to turn up the volume the back speakers are liable to distort after replacing them from underpower. Even though that panasonic is 45x4 its true power output is probably right arounf 15x4 as a true output. Any decent speaker will want quite a bit more than that.
 

cujo613

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qwikxr said:
so snoopy isn't into imaging LOL ;)
just the opposite, I just don't beleive in the rear fill theory.
If you are going to run rear speakers then run them at equal amplification, or don't run them at all.
No point in having a set of weak speakers in the system.
 

qwikxr

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No trying to start a battle battle.. Just trying to head of misinformation..

Go to a concert.. the band sits in front of you, not behind you. The music that you hear from behind you is a lighter volume, due to the fact that it is reflection from the rear of the auditorium.
RTA (Real Time Analyzer) a system where the rear speakers are as loud as the front, and you'll score a low number, as there is no "presence" or "sense of direction" as to where the band is placed.

If you care nothing of quality, then have at it - amp them all the same level. If you care for quality and imaging, then set the system up correctly.. Take it a step further, and introduce a center channel to the system, and do it at a very low volume, or a much higher impedence, like 8 or 16ohms.. This will naturally drop the volume level..
Sit in two identical cars, with the exact same audio equipment.. One set up your way, with the 4 midrange drivers all receiving 50W, and say a 10" sub on 100W. The other car with 50W on the front stage, 20-25W on the rear (or less), and a 10" sub with 100W. See which sounds much more realistic, and more clear. I'll bet you a dollar and a dozen donut holes that the correclty staged system will sound much better, and will also score higher on an RTA.

It all boils down to personal preference, and ultimate goal.. If you just want a loud system, then your way works. If you want a quality, properly imaged audio system, then do it the right way.
I did car audio installation for years, and am MECP 1st Class certified installer, not that that makes a hill of beans to most, but it does mean that I know what I'm talking about.
Cheers and beers :beer:
 

junior1023

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First of all, thanks for the advice guys!

I just checked and my CD player is 45w x 4

So will some new speakers do the trick on there own for a clearer sound? Everyone else I have spoken to has just suggested an amp. I dont wanna go out and spend a ton of money and time installing the wrong thing. Im trying to keep it around $200 right now. Anyone have any other adivce? THANKS!
 

qwikxr

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It amplifies the audio signal strength to the drivers (speakers.)
Makes it louder.. But more power isn't always "better".. You can build a nice, quality, low-wattage system, or a balls-out high powered, annoyance! lol
 

junior1023

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Cool. So is there any certain type of speaker I should get? I notice they are all different watts and such.
 

cujo613

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qwikxr said:
No trying to start a battle battle.. Just trying to head of misinformation..

Go to a concert.. the band sits in front of you, not behind you. The music that you hear from behind you is a lighter volume, due to the fact that it is reflection from the rear of the auditorium.
RTA (Real Time Analyzer) a system where the rear speakers are as loud as the front, and you'll score a low number, as there is no "presence" or "sense of direction" as to where the band is placed.

If you care nothing of quality, then have at it - amp them all the same level. If you care for quality and imaging, then set the system up correctly.. Take it a step further, and introduce a center channel to the system, and do it at a very low volume, or a much higher impedence, like 8 or 16ohms.. This will naturally drop the volume level..
Sit in two identical cars, with the exact same audio equipment.. One set up your way, with the 4 midrange drivers all receiving 50W, and say a 10" sub on 100W. The other car with 50W on the front stage, 20-25W on the rear (or less), and a 10" sub with 100W. See which sounds much more realistic, and more clear. I'll bet you a dollar and a dozen donut holes that the correclty staged system will sound much better, and will also score higher on an RTA.

It all boils down to personal preference, and ultimate goal.. If you just want a loud system, then your way works. If you want a quality, properly imaged audio system, then do it the right way.
I did car audio installation for years, and am MECP 1st Class certified installer, not that that makes a hill of beans to most, but it does mean that I know what I'm talking about.
Cheers and beers :beer:
Ahhhh
MECP certified here as well with 10 years in the indusatry.
Im not disagreeing with staging.
If you are going to set up for a sq vehicle then a perfect front stage is the answer.
But there are many ways to create a front image with rears with the correct time control prcessors. But that neither here nor there.
I just dont agree with run a set of speakers off the deck. IMO The rears will distort at higher levels from not being amped, and not be able to stay with the overall output of the amped front speakers.
So I have never beleived in just rear fill.
Like I said either not use back speakers and do an entire front stage only or amp all speakers equually.
But you can acheive a perfect sonic front stage using time delay and properly placed speakers.

Amplifiers do a lot more than just increase the power.
With the addition of an amplifier you also gain control of the speakers. And what I mean by control is that a deck even tho it is rated at 45x4 is going to around 13-15x4 and will lack the ability to control the speaker through its musical passages.
Take a speaker and hook it up to a deck listen to it at moderate volume volume.
Hook the same speaker up to an amp and play it at the same listening level. The amplified speaker will have a lot more controled midbass abd treble and you will hear subtle music that you did not hear off the deck power.


You do need a new pair of speakers, running them off of deck power I would suggest something in the range of $75 per pair. Maybe entry Alpines or Infinitys, but definitely somethin that has a high efficiency rating rating seein that you are going to be running them at such a low power level.
 

qwikxr

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point taken, snoop..

and junior.. IMO, 3ways are worthless.. I think they sound too 'tinny'.. A nice set of coax would suffice nicely
 

junior1023

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Cartoys over charges! LOL. I got a $65 CD player. That plus install brought me to $135! NEver will go there agian.

But wont 6x9's be to large for the front? That's why I was looking at both size's in those DUAL's.

I just want nice, clear, loud music. My CD deck's volume goes to like 55. When I hit 22 it's starts getting distorted
 


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