New alternator not charging

loudferio13

New Member
5+ Year Member
Well i sanded down all grounds.I then talked to the guy who tested the alt.He said to check the two top wires of the green plug to see if they had a short.I tested them to the #15 fuse and they were good now IM thinking either the power wire needs to be bigger or maybe the eld or pcm is bad.Ive seen people talk abouth them messing with there alts.Or should i get a stock one and see if that works.Hasnt anyone had this problem before.sorry for being a pain
 

loudferio13

New Member
5+ Year Member
I think your missing what I am saying. You need to physically disconnect the wire from the fusebox and inspect the contact point. On mine, the alternator blew send a arc to the fusebox. When it did that, there was some residue on the contact point. I had to sand the contact in order to get a good alternator connection again.
I know what your saying I was talking about what the other guy told me
 


loudferio13

New Member
5+ Year Member
You are not answering the questions. Stay focused.

Is your charging system modified besides the high output alternator?

Does the large alternator wire have battery voltage at the alternator?
I have upgraded grounds known as the big 3 in 1/0 guage except the power wire from the alt to the batt(but i do have it).I have a xs powermaster d3100 in the rear and stock wet cell up front.1/0 run from front to back and amp grounded in back

the large whit wire has voltage at the alternator but its just telling me what the batt has so 12.1-12.3
 

Enables

New Member
5+ Year Member
Could be the alt, Or something wrong with that not Charging.
 


X-aCuTiOnA

W.W.H.D.?
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10+ Year Member
this is f**kin perplexing! All grounds are properly grounded? I had the tranny one not bolted down all the way and car wouldnt start....

I know this is dumb, but did you check to make sure the belt is actually turning with the car on?

Also, i looked at the helms manual. Most of the trouble shooting is shorts on the 4 plug connector. Id recommend gettin you a copy and following the troubleshooting steps outlined in it.
 

RonJ

Banned
I have upgraded grounds known as the big 3 in 1/0 guage except the power wire from the alt to the batt(but i do have it).I have a xs powermaster d3100 in the rear and stock wet cell up front.1/0 run from front to back and amp grounded in back

the large whit wire has voltage at the alternator but its just telling me what the batt has so 12.1-12.3
Okay. Now do the electrical troubleshooting shown in the two diagrams below. Post any questions that you have about these tests that have a chance to uncover the source of your charging problem.

(If all tests are fine, I recommend that you disconnect all of the modified rear battery wiring you describe above and return it to stock to see whether the alternator now charges the system.)





 

loudferio13

New Member
5+ Year Member
hey did the test and now the car wont start at all trys to but doesnt could i have drained the batt
 

RonJ

Banned
If the starter is not cranking the engine, then pull the battery out and take it to an auto parts store for charging. You need a fully charged battery to do the alternator tests. What are the test outcomes so far?
 

loudferio13

New Member
5+ Year Member
well the first test i unplugged the connector so i m not sure.the second test i dont know how to ground it I was thinking just put red probe in connector and then ground it on the car.I am thinking my front batt is no good gonna take off work tommorow.Again real sorry man I am totally lost can usually figure this out.
 

loudferio13

New Member
5+ Year Member
forgot to add when i started the car for first test the check engine light came on and not the battery light.I unplugged the conn and reconnected it and then it was just battery and not check engine
 

RonJ

Banned
well the first test i unplugged the connector so i m not sure..
It's fine to measure voltage at terminal 1 of the unplugged connector. This is done by touching the red meter probe to terminal 1 and the black meter probe to a clean metallic area of the engine. What voltage did you measure?

the second test i dont know how to ground it I was thinking just put red probe in connector and then ground it on the car.
Use a piece wire and touch one end to terminal 3 and the other end to a clean metallic area of the engine.

I am thinking my front batt is no good
Yes, you need a good battery for these tests. Might this bad battery have been the cause of no charging all this time?
 

loudferio13

New Member
5+ Year Member
okay quick question what is a piece wire and with the connector unplugged i didnt get anything unless i found a really good ground but it was floating around ill do it again tom and let you know.why do you think my car wont start.and the first test should the key be turned over or the car actually on
 

RonJ

Banned
okay quick question what is a piece wire
A foot-long or so length of wire with a half-inch of insulation removed from both ends.

and with the connector unplugged i didnt get anything unless i found a really good ground but it was floating around
You need to find a clean metallic area of the engine as a ground source.

...why do you think my car wont start.
Isn't the battery dead?


and the first test should the key be turned over or the car actually on
The key turned to ON(II).
 

loudferio13

New Member
5+ Year Member
like i said it started for the past few days now it just doesnt want to start it might be dead but it reads 12.3 off so i dont know ill check those test tomorow
 

Mieky_ny

New Member
5+ Year Member
the fuse should be in the second row its red .. the same thing happened to my car change the fuse and if it keeps happening then you need to check your cars computer.
 

loudferio13

New Member
5+ Year Member
hey ron I did the first test when i charged the batt.I did it with the plug unhooked cause i couldnt get a probe in there anyways i didnt get a reading.didnt get a chance to do others but is there a way i can run a new wire directly to the fuse
 


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