NOLAcivic's Daily friendly EJ8 build.
- Thread starter NOLAcivic
- Start date
I did a cruise control delete on my build thread and to be honest with you the delete was very easy. I hope it's just as easy to put one on, I have a D 16 Y8 and not directly familiar with the HX engine
NOLAcivic
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I think I have to swap the pedal assembly out for one with cruise. Which I have... I have all the parts I would need. I think the wiring needs to be on the chassis harness.
I got some work done. Mainly getting the trunk and bumper to line up good. I added the mud guards from my ex.
The engine bay was such a mess. I decided to just engine gunk it and it worked well. P/s pump has a leak some where. Valve cover gasket leaks and probably a lot of other gasket.
Since I swapped the hvac from my old car into this car I know everything works under the dash. I just did a quick charge on the a/c to see if anything leaked. It doesn't seem to leak but on hot days it's not really cooling down. I'm talking 90-95* and humid. I'm in New Orleans. It sux in the summer. In the early morning and late evening however, everything cools nice. I'm assuming it's bc I'm not properly charged yet.
Anyways, the compressor seems to run all the time instead of cycling. It turns off when I press the a/c button. Maybe it's related to the freon or maybe a pressure switch isn't turning the compressor off.
Overall the car is shaping up good. If I can't find decent replacement parts for the bumper and trunk I may just paint the car.
I got some work done. Mainly getting the trunk and bumper to line up good. I added the mud guards from my ex.
The engine bay was such a mess. I decided to just engine gunk it and it worked well. P/s pump has a leak some where. Valve cover gasket leaks and probably a lot of other gasket.
Since I swapped the hvac from my old car into this car I know everything works under the dash. I just did a quick charge on the a/c to see if anything leaked. It doesn't seem to leak but on hot days it's not really cooling down. I'm talking 90-95* and humid. I'm in New Orleans. It sux in the summer. In the early morning and late evening however, everything cools nice. I'm assuming it's bc I'm not properly charged yet.
Anyways, the compressor seems to run all the time instead of cycling. It turns off when I press the a/c button. Maybe it's related to the freon or maybe a pressure switch isn't turning the compressor off.
Overall the car is shaping up good. If I can't find decent replacement parts for the bumper and trunk I may just paint the car.
NOLAcivic
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Ok.... Let me get an update out there.. Stage Farm finally totaled the EJ8. Awarding me $4000 as the value and for tax title license bc I just bought the car.
Now that is out of the way I can continue on the EJ7 build.
I got the motor and transmission all cleaned up. I went a head and installed the clutch, flywheel, and transmission. Now I just have to get a few misc. parts.
Now that is out of the way I can continue on the EJ7 build.
I got the motor and transmission all cleaned up. I went a head and installed the clutch, flywheel, and transmission. Now I just have to get a few misc. parts.
NOLAcivic
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Ok a little update. Got the motor swapped out and new motor installed over the weekend.
Put hondata s300 on it.
Having a no power to fuel relay and to ecu problem at the moment. I'm going to put a multimeter on it this evening and see if I can figure out what is going in with it. Everything seems to work just not getting power to the ecu or fuel relay. A few times when I went to crank it the fuel primed and the cel came on and went off like normal. The engine rotated and the. It stopped. Now no power to the ecu or fuel relay.
Hopefully I'll have a more positive update by tonight.
Put hondata s300 on it.
Having a no power to fuel relay and to ecu problem at the moment. I'm going to put a multimeter on it this evening and see if I can figure out what is going in with it. Everything seems to work just not getting power to the ecu or fuel relay. A few times when I went to crank it the fuel primed and the cel came on and went off like normal. The engine rotated and the. It stopped. Now no power to the ecu or fuel relay.
Hopefully I'll have a more positive update by tonight.
NOLAcivic
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Yeah there were three plugs to the ecu and a green one before them. I think it's a grounding problem. Not feeling well today so I'll get back to it when I do.
Thanks guys! I'm happy to keep the project moving.
NOLAcivic
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So I felt better today and started trouble shooting the car. So I had a hunch it was a ground problem and it was. The ground at the transmission wasn't Connecting bc there was paint under the bracket that the ground wire bolts to. I took a wire wheel to a the grounds and everything got power as it should. Cranked right up.
NOLAcivic
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Since the video I got the alternator and a/c belts on. I still have to bleed the clutch line, connect the header, and wire in a stock o2. I have it in open loop at the moment but I don't have a wideband installed to tune it. I'm going to hook up my old lc-1 and see if I can get it linked to hondata. Then dial in the fuel and give it a street tune.
NOLAcivic
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Welp bad news again lol. I got the exhaust hooked up and drove to my buddies house. Car drove perfect. Was driving home a few hours later and hear a weird fast tapping noise and tmcR started running like poop. Tapping stopped but cylinder 3 is down. Did a leakdown test and looks like something is up with the intake valves. Tons of air leaking out. Taking the head off tomorrow to check it all out.
NOLAcivic
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Got the head off and inspected everything. Looks like a piece of the cast next to the valve seat broke off and was hitting around in the chamber. Cylinder walls are still in perfect shape. Intake valves on cylinder 3 are leaking when tested with rubbing alcohol. Took the head apart and brought it to the machine shop. They said it can be fixed and cost $150 + 2 new intake valves $50. So overall not bad.
I think the problem was that I was under the impression this was a 10.2 compression motor with USDM ITR pistons. Once I pulled the head I realized that it was JDM ITR pistons and the compression is 11.6 with a 2 layer head gasket. I have to sand the piston tops to smooth out the tops and also will smooth out the combustion chamber and I should be good to go. I'm going to put a OEM 3 layer head gasket in place to reduce the compression.
In a nut shell. I still had 87 octane fuel in the gas tank and had a ITR map on the ECU. My guess is that 11.6 compression didn't like 87 octane and the weakest link took a dump. Hopefully it will be back together this weekend or next week.
I will post pics of the internals soon. Just so you guys can see.
I think the problem was that I was under the impression this was a 10.2 compression motor with USDM ITR pistons. Once I pulled the head I realized that it was JDM ITR pistons and the compression is 11.6 with a 2 layer head gasket. I have to sand the piston tops to smooth out the tops and also will smooth out the combustion chamber and I should be good to go. I'm going to put a OEM 3 layer head gasket in place to reduce the compression.
In a nut shell. I still had 87 octane fuel in the gas tank and had a ITR map on the ECU. My guess is that 11.6 compression didn't like 87 octane and the weakest link took a dump. Hopefully it will be back together this weekend or next week.
I will post pics of the internals soon. Just so you guys can see.
NOLAcivic
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The above picture show the damage to cylinder 3 piston and combustion chamber. The overall plan view of the head and block, show the variation in cylinder condition where cylinder 3 stands out. The view at the combustion chamber shows the result of rubbing alcohol testing how good the valve is sealing. The photos below show the fragments that bounced around the cylinder before being lodged between the valve guide and the casting of the head. This would be why the noise stopped. Probably lucky this happened in the end.
If you zoom in on the right you can see the fragment.
Here are the fragments removed.
If you zoom in on the right you can see the fragment.
Here are the fragments removed.
NOLAcivic
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The machine shop is going to change the seats that are pressed into the head and fix the bore while the seat is out and put a new guide in b/c it was a little loose. Overall the job on the head is $150-200. I took some 320 grit and sanded the piston top smooth. There are a few pits that I will have to live with but should be fine. When I get the head back I will sand the chamber down a little to get all the high spots down and reassemble and install the head.
I just started doing like a stage one port and polish job on my GSR head that I plan to use for my next integra build.
I just started doing like a stage one port and polish job on my GSR head that I plan to use for my next integra build.
NOLAcivic
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Still waiting to hear from the machine shop. New valves came in and I picked them up from the dealership.
In the meantime I got started on my gsr head project. Just working the ports and combustion chamber. Not really changing the size of anything but making it more efficient. I got the combustion chamber finished in a day. Not bad.going to start the port work this week.
In the meantime I got started on my gsr head project. Just working the ports and combustion chamber. Not really changing the size of anything but making it more efficient. I got the combustion chamber finished in a day. Not bad.going to start the port work this week.
NOLAcivic
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Ok so I got the car back together and it's driving fine now. The head was fixed. Next problem I'm having is that it feels like the comp clutch isn't working correct. I have the same clutch in my Integra nad the pedal feels off in the civic. The engagement is pretty low even though the pedal feel is high. I vacuum bled the lines and didn't really make a change. So I think I will be pulling the transmission soon in order to inspect the clutch and see what the deal is. Hopefully it's something in the clutch and not the transmission. After talking with David (owner of synchrotech) he said it sounds like a clutch issue not a transmission problem. I change the MC with another to see if that helped or not and it didn't. I have another new slave I will try and see if that is the problem before pulling the transmission.
Basically I'm getting some pulsing feeling when I'm coasting in gear but at particular MPH. It's very strange but I'm hoping the it's a simple fix when I get to digging. Car drive fine otherwise. My other thought is that it's the axles binding or something. It has something to do with parts changed b/c it didn't do this with the stock motor in it.
Basically I'm getting some pulsing feeling when I'm coasting in gear but at particular MPH. It's very strange but I'm hoping the it's a simple fix when I get to digging. Car drive fine otherwise. My other thought is that it's the axles binding or something. It has something to do with parts changed b/c it didn't do this with the stock motor in it.