overheating help
- Thread starter madmike91
- Start date
1993DX
New Member
1) Set the #1 cylinder to TDC. (cam gear will have "UP" pointing up, the hash marks on the cam gear will be aligned with the top edge of the head, the rotor will point at the #1 spark plug wire, and the #1 piston will be all the way up)
2) Mark the timing belt / cam gear teeth orientation so when you reinstall the belt you're putting it back on the exact same way you took it off (a small amount of white out works great).
3) Half way down the lower timing belt cover is a hole plug. Pop it out to expose the tensioner bolt.
4) Loosen the tensioner bolt (14mm) about a half turn (don't remove it!!).
5) Use a long screw driver (with the tip wrapped in electrical tape) to push the tensioner down just enough to be able to slip the timing belt off the cam gear.
6) Re-tighten the tensioner bolt.
To re-install the timing belt: As long as you didn't move the crank pulley, cam gear, or move the timing belt around a whole lot, you should be able to loosen the tensioner bolt up and slip the belt back on the exact same way it came off, using the exact same process used to remove it.
To re-tension the timing belt:
1) Put the timing belt back on as described.
2) With the tensioner bolt still loose, rotate the crank pulley about an 1/8th to 1/4 turn CLOCKWISE.
3) Re-tighten the tensioner bolt.
4) Rotate the crank a couple full revolutions COUNTER-CLOCKWISE and set the #1 cylinder at TDC again.
5) Check to make sure the timing marks are aligned properly, if they are you're all done.
- Note: Your markings on the timing belt may not align with the markings on the cam gear after this.
If anything doesn't make sense just ask and I'll further clarify.
1993DX
New Member
I don't know what's compatible from year to year, there are high compression hg's that are a little thinner... But that's getting into a whole other ball game.
As far as quality goes, both the one's I did were Felpro, which are pretty decent. I don't know what else to tell you on that though.
As far as quality goes, both the one's I did were Felpro, which are pretty decent. I don't know what else to tell you on that though.
1993DX
New Member
Yes, Felpro hg at Autozone.. Like I said doing a hg isn't necessarily expensive, it's time consuming.
At the end of the exhaust manifold there is a support bracket bolted to the block, did you remove it as well? Also, the manifold needs to be unbolted from the rest of the exhaust too. If the manifold is just frozen on the studs then soak them in penetrating oil or WD40 for a while. Keep in mind that the head CAN be removed with the exhaust manifold still attached.
For the tensioner: You can't loosen the bolt, or you can't push the tensioner down to create slack?
The tensioner needs to be pushed down at about a 45 degree angle towards the firewall, not straight down. You'll need hold it down while you slip the timing belt off. It may still seem tight-ish when you go to slip it off, but if you can get the timing belt to move it is loose enough to slip all the way off.. just give the tensioner an extra little umph as you do it. Also try loosening the bolt another 1/4 turn first. I used a long screw driver with the tip wrapped in electrical tape to push on the tensioner.
If you simply can't loosen the bolt... Well it is tight and there is really only room for a 1/4" socket and ratchet, so it is a pain in the ass. Point the ratchet handle towards the firewall and pull up. If you can't get it that way then point the ratchet handle towards the front of the car and push down. You may have to play around with positioning till you can get enough leverage on it. Try a small cheater pipe or socket and extension on the end of the ratchet handle for some more leverage.
Just don't give up!!
At the end of the exhaust manifold there is a support bracket bolted to the block, did you remove it as well? Also, the manifold needs to be unbolted from the rest of the exhaust too. If the manifold is just frozen on the studs then soak them in penetrating oil or WD40 for a while. Keep in mind that the head CAN be removed with the exhaust manifold still attached.
For the tensioner: You can't loosen the bolt, or you can't push the tensioner down to create slack?
The tensioner needs to be pushed down at about a 45 degree angle towards the firewall, not straight down. You'll need hold it down while you slip the timing belt off. It may still seem tight-ish when you go to slip it off, but if you can get the timing belt to move it is loose enough to slip all the way off.. just give the tensioner an extra little umph as you do it. Also try loosening the bolt another 1/4 turn first. I used a long screw driver with the tip wrapped in electrical tape to push on the tensioner.
If you simply can't loosen the bolt... Well it is tight and there is really only room for a 1/4" socket and ratchet, so it is a pain in the ass. Point the ratchet handle towards the firewall and pull up. If you can't get it that way then point the ratchet handle towards the front of the car and push down. You may have to play around with positioning till you can get enough leverage on it. Try a small cheater pipe or socket and extension on the end of the ratchet handle for some more leverage.
Just don't give up!!
ll0SCRAPPY0ll
New Member
I did that to my old civic lol then I sold it.
1993DX
New Member
Wow.. Mine came off using only a 1/4" stubby ratchet.
Well if it keeps coming unseated then use a pry bar, long screw driver, or anything that is long and stout to apply pressure to the head of the ratchet while you loosen it. Really you only need to hold it in place long enough to break it loose...
Other than that you may need to take off the other accessory belts for more room, or just go ahead and take everything off and pull the lower timing belt cover.
Lol, or just force your hands down there and just get it done. It'll only hurt for a few seconds.
