P0505 Code, got new IACV, code returned
- Thread starter JohnS.
- Start date
I had my idle screw turned out too far. I turned it in a solid 2 complete turns and dropped my idle down to around 6-700 and the check engine hasn't come on in a few days. This has been the longest it's been off since the CEL came on for P0505 in nearly 7-8 months.
JohnS, that's how I got rid of my IACV problems too, adjusted the idle screw to the recommendations in the haynes manual, I'm just back to the problems I was having before it, rough idle/misfires. I'm really hating this car. lol.
BAMendoza
New Member
i had the same problem. same code came up 2 times i changed the IACV 3 times and nothing but one day decided to change my computer with another stock one and problem solved. i even put back my original IACV back and perfect. i did all the adjustments every one said with that one bolt and s**t and all i needed was the computer. now i have a obd1 computer tunned and p0505 never came up ever again.
BAMendoza, which obd1 ecu did you put in, well the model number?
theclobster
New Member
I am going through this right now, 98 Honda Civic EX.
It happens when at idle for a while, but I noticed if I use premium gas it doesn't happen, earlier today, i filled up with regular, a minute of idling later and the CEL was on... and got in that jerky kind of mode.. feels like a broken engine mount or something as soon as you touch or let off the gas.
Horribly annoying when you have to drive 5 hours a day, I am sick of turning my car on and off, and even with the CEL on, it will start doing it again if the ecu gets another faulty signal.
IACV was replaced about 40k miles ago.. it was caked in cabon coming from the valve cover (EGR?), i cleaned it and put premium fuel in and some techron and everything was fine for about 300 miles...
Guess I'm going to try another IACV ={
It happens when at idle for a while, but I noticed if I use premium gas it doesn't happen, earlier today, i filled up with regular, a minute of idling later and the CEL was on... and got in that jerky kind of mode.. feels like a broken engine mount or something as soon as you touch or let off the gas.
Horribly annoying when you have to drive 5 hours a day, I am sick of turning my car on and off, and even with the CEL on, it will start doing it again if the ecu gets another faulty signal.
IACV was replaced about 40k miles ago.. it was caked in cabon coming from the valve cover (EGR?), i cleaned it and put premium fuel in and some techron and everything was fine for about 300 miles...
Guess I'm going to try another IACV ={
way to revive an old thread theclobster 
i guess thats why new members don't know how forums work... and probably will be your only post, if not at least 3... but i don't know what to tell you, i'm not familiar with the EGR intake manifolds, nor would I know why the IACV would be caked in carbon, is it caked again? you might have another problem if it is, and not IACV related.
i guess thats why new members don't know how forums work... and probably will be your only post, if not at least 3... but i don't know what to tell you, i'm not familiar with the EGR intake manifolds, nor would I know why the IACV would be caked in carbon, is it caked again? you might have another problem if it is, and not IACV related.I specifically purchased a OBDII just for this problem for my 1.6EL.
From my experience, this problem is casued by vacuum leak. I am not saying there must a a hole somewhere on the tube or gasket. Vacuum leak can be casued by a stuck open valve.
If you have a manual car, the easiest way to check for a vacuum leak is to disconnect the air intake tube right before the throttle body. Connect the OBDII or whatever you use to measure the rpm. Start the car and disconnect the IACV electric connector. Now the IACV should be fully closed. Bloack the throttle body completely and in normal condition, there should be not air intake and the engine should die. However, in my previous situation, there is a vacuum leak, the engine keep running. In my 2000 1.6 EL, there is a thermal valve that close when the car warmed up. There is where it leak for me. Also, the PCV solenoid stuck open with the wired shorted to ground.
Dont try to change anything blindly and hoped that it will fix it. I tried that method and it does not work.
I also tried going to the garage and hope that they can find the problem. Unfortunately, most mechanics cannot do problem solving and they act only according to experience. They have no idea of whats wrong and just ask you to change something and see if it helps.
Hope it helps.
AnimeKid
New Member
In response to that, here is nothing wrong with reviving an old thread because its possible that somebody hasnt seen it and could help them with the problem that they are having. I have been a member on here for a while now and for a while before that, and its comments like from jerks like you that make people extremely wary of forums and make them not want to post.way to revive an old thread theclobster
Well thanks for calling me a jerk, I'm not calling anyone names, so I don't expect anyone calling me anything either. But, I was joking around with that, if I wasn't I wouldn't of continued to ask a question to him, and of which I'm still waiting for a response to help further.
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