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Soulless21

New Member
30893

1995 Honda Civic DX

-engine-
D15b7 bone stock all original

-interior-
Stock interior
Original civic stereo
Rockford fosgate speakers all around

-exterior-
stock
Shaved badges
Shaved passenger door

-suspenstion-
Skunk 2 S2 Pros

sitting on LS Mesh
 

B00STJUNKIE17

New Member
Engine:
B18B1 block
B20B Head
Headers
Intake
Straight Pipe

Transmission:
Stock LS transmission
Stage 2 Clutch
Stock Flywheel

Suspension:
Unknown name brand coilovers

Pretty much a work in progress as I'm in the middle of getting new E-Brake cables so my rear wheels can stop locking up and my left rear tire is flat so I'm going to hopefully buy new tires in a week or two as well. It's also amidst a rear disc brake conversion when I bought her and just need OEM rear disc brakes from a DC2 as I already have the trailing arms and such. Also can't wait to refresh my coilover system and get a real exhaust system but for now I'm happy! 31019
 
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drdave

New Member
31132
I am a retired ASE master tech and I specialized in Asian imports when I was pulling wrenches, so this has become my new hobby.
Last month for Christmas, my father-in-law gave me his "unmolested", but not very well maintained, '95 Civic EX, D16Z6, manual trans, that he had purchased new. It has 120,000 original miles and if he did nothing else, the oil was regularly changed.
The first thing I do with a "new to me" car is locate an owner's manual if it does not have one, it saves time and cuts down on asking noob questions, like how to get the radio to work, LOL...
I wanted to leave the original AM/FM cassette in it, but I am having an issue getting it to take the disarm code, and 3 service writers at my local Honda dealer came up empty too....
It has been sitting for several years and the battery had been doing what they usually do in this model. Fortunately, the damage was limited to the battery & tray, for the most part.
After cutting, cussing and prying it out, both bolts were too corroded to get a socket on. I cleaned up the rusted sheet metal, resealed the strut tower seams, retaped the harness and primed it.
I bought a Taylor remote mount battery kit (2-gauge cables) and a 3/8" bulkhead fitting to get the new battery out of harm's way and remove any chance of cutting/grounding out the hot cable passing thru the firewall. This was a relatively easy fix that looks awesome.
There had been issues with the sunroof and windows being grindingly slow or totally inoperative, but after cleaning the window tracks and lubing the sunroof rollers, replacing the battery & cables, and a new, heavier hot wire from the bulkhead fitting to the exterior fuse block, all of these issues disappeared.
Next, it got a fresh set of 195/60/14 tires, I did a major tune-up; valve adjustment, V/C set, plug wires, a fresh set of NGKs, A/F, F/F and a good throttle body cleaning. Most of the 198 bulb sockets, and some of the taillight sockets, had to be cleaned with a fingernail file to remove corrosion.
Besides the battery relocation and tune up, the only mods I have done so far are more for curb appeal than performance, I have replaced ALL light bulbs with LEDs, inside and out.
I have yet to run down an inoperative cruise control issue it has, and it is still too cold to fool with the inoperative A/C.
He had it painted several years ago, and they skimped on the clear coat. The flaw shows on the hood more than anywhere. I am going to try buffing it out and hope a good waxing will remedy the visible clear coat because the rest of the car is near flawless. If not, it will be repainted.
I was looking around the web for a good forum for info and this one looked like it was populated by people who know the car, any suggestions with my minor issues are appreciated as I have yet to get a shop manual.
 
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