I have a 1996 civic lx sedan and all the power door locks stopped functioning tonight, i have a viper alarm that locks or unlocks all the doors when i arm it and tonight when i armed it...none of the doors locked. I heard absolutely nothing and saw only my lights flash when I armed it. Ill check fuses tomorrow, but this is where I'm at right now...has anyone heard of anything like this before?
power door locks stop working
- Thread starter jcamb
- Start date
sounds like it could be ...
1. relay went out or became dissconnected
2. bad ground or short
3. bad fuse
check those and leme know. i have the same alarm system and same car.. piece of cake..
theres only a hand full of problems that can occur ina a keyless entry..
it'll be a easy fix.
1. relay went out or became dissconnected
2. bad ground or short
3. bad fuse
check those and leme know. i have the same alarm system and same car.. piece of cake..
theres only a hand full of problems that can occur ina a keyless entry..
it'll be a easy fix.
true .. but he stated that 2 doors wont open..
just the lights flash.. when armed..
i highly doubt that the 2 door actuators went out at once.. one maybe .. but 2 at the same time ???
maybe somthing grounded them out and fried them both .. but .. its not a power type actuator.. they run off a diffrent type of relay.
could also be a faulty brain ( contorls alarm ) but i have never seen a viper brain go out.
I have a 96 Civic EX sedan with factory keyless entry and same problem. I have gone through the troubleshooting process with all actuators and found they work independently with a power supply (door panels were off). I have traced the problem to the driver's door harness connector and/or that is between the door and body. My questions is how do you get to this connector? Do you have to remove the door, the front quarter panel, or both? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.
4 doors
jcamb -
I have the same problem with the door locks and the power windows -- neither work. I have traced my problem to shorts within the wire harness inside the rubber boot that leads from the vehicle interior above the kick panel to the driver door. If you remove the rubber boot from the door, you might see exposed wires at or beyond the connector creating the short. My next step is to use a continuity gauge to check each wire from the door connector to the harness behind the kick panel. From there I have to replace the bad wires with new wires by pulling the new strings through the vehicle panel and splicing into the door connector and interior harness. Since my windows don't work, I expect to be replacing many wires.
If your problem is the same as mine, there is no other way to correct it through the service manual or OEM parts. I have discussed this with the dealer parts counter and service techs. They are familiar with this history and have nothing to offer other than splicing.
Good luck.
John
I have the same problem with the door locks and the power windows -- neither work. I have traced my problem to shorts within the wire harness inside the rubber boot that leads from the vehicle interior above the kick panel to the driver door. If you remove the rubber boot from the door, you might see exposed wires at or beyond the connector creating the short. My next step is to use a continuity gauge to check each wire from the door connector to the harness behind the kick panel. From there I have to replace the bad wires with new wires by pulling the new strings through the vehicle panel and splicing into the door connector and interior harness. Since my windows don't work, I expect to be replacing many wires.
If your problem is the same as mine, there is no other way to correct it through the service manual or OEM parts. I have discussed this with the dealer parts counter and service techs. They are familiar with this history and have nothing to offer other than splicing.
Good luck.
John
Okay, the job's done. I had two broken wires in the rubber boot between the driver door and body panel.
[img=http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/2383/p1030937.jpg]
To get to the boot, you have to take off the front quarter panel. You break a few push fasteners trying to get the wheel well protector and lower leg protector off of the car, so plan on buying some extra fasteners at the parts store.
The boot is in two pieces so it is simple to move it apart to expose the wires. Be carefull when you disconnect the harness end off of the door as forcing it may break more wires. Since we have the same model year car, I can tell you that the wires seem brittle. I don't know exactly how mine broke - from the damaged ends I can guess that they got fatigued from the years of opening/closing the door. There were also more wires that had breaks in the insulation/cover so I applied some good electrical tape over the areas to protect them from spliting.
I was able to splice the damaged wires with some pigtails of the same gauge wire and close the ends with solder and tape. Fortunately, none of the wires had come out of the harness connector that attaches to the door. I wouldn't know where to find a replacement connector or parts for the connector other than a junk yard. The job took about 3 hours from start to finish -- remember, I also had no working windows so I was checking the window and door lock functions along the way to reassembly.
End of story: I have working windows, working power locks on all doors, and the keyless entry feature is now working again.
[img=http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/2383/p1030937.jpg]
To get to the boot, you have to take off the front quarter panel. You break a few push fasteners trying to get the wheel well protector and lower leg protector off of the car, so plan on buying some extra fasteners at the parts store.
The boot is in two pieces so it is simple to move it apart to expose the wires. Be carefull when you disconnect the harness end off of the door as forcing it may break more wires. Since we have the same model year car, I can tell you that the wires seem brittle. I don't know exactly how mine broke - from the damaged ends I can guess that they got fatigued from the years of opening/closing the door. There were also more wires that had breaks in the insulation/cover so I applied some good electrical tape over the areas to protect them from spliting.
I was able to splice the damaged wires with some pigtails of the same gauge wire and close the ends with solder and tape. Fortunately, none of the wires had come out of the harness connector that attaches to the door. I wouldn't know where to find a replacement connector or parts for the connector other than a junk yard. The job took about 3 hours from start to finish -- remember, I also had no working windows so I was checking the window and door lock functions along the way to reassembly.
End of story: I have working windows, working power locks on all doors, and the keyless entry feature is now working again.
