Reference: Suspension And Spring Rate Information

slammed_93_hatc

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Kamikaze said:
BTW - I'm told that on 5th gens (at least) there is a fair to good chance that the bolts that hold the rear struts to the rear control arms are welded in. (Mine aren't, but a friend's were.) So, you pretty much can't take the bolts out without some serious work/cutting.

Spray the bolts with WD 40 or some other environmentally-unfriendly lube, let it soak overnight, and hope you can get 'em off the next day. ;)

Be sure to check that before you think you've got a simple strut swap...
wow thats SO unclear and SO untrue.

a NUT is welded to the damper, (aftermarket dampers come with them welded on there too). and a bolt goes threw the other side and gets tightened down on the nut.

now you MIGHT be talking about when a bushing seizes onto the bolt, which in that case its a HUGE PITA.

just an FYI, any person with a complete set of tools and some basic knowledge, can strip down any honda to the bare chassi
 


h22dreamer

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i have a question, pounds per inch aka springs rate should be same as what the strut can handle right. lets say koni strut can handle 400. so the springs should be 400 or around that. but if the spring is measured per inch. springs are usualy longer or shorter with other springs. so my question is if strut wants 400 pound per inch of the spring. and lets say 2 springs are 400 but one is 1in longer then the other one. would the strut care about the diffrence or it makes no diffrence.

PS: dont mind me i duno wat im talkin about
 

bills99si

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KwiKinTeG2BdEaLtWiD said:
it really depends on your budget. for starters, you could go with the Ground Control Coilover kits and Tokico Illumina Shocks. usually, they go from $500-$900 .
A lot of Autocrossers and SCCA showroom stock class race drivers use this combination.

and make sure you get a camber kit, not just to improve the camber but also to prevent tire wear. it would be better to do more research on this before you go out and spend money on a useless set up.

Hey - Very informative post, thanks - I do have a question too,
I think i am heading in that direction too, you mentioned a camber kit to improve the camber but also to prevent tire wear, could you tell me more on improving the camber ?
do you mean it will give the flexibility to change the camber on the fly for like auto-x and set it back to normal ? and what tire wear ? if I'm adding coilovers and struts/shock set, I have read I need a alignment to set the cars toe and etc. to the new height, do I need to do more researching ??
-Bill
 


slammed_93_hatc

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h22dreamer said:
i have a question, pounds per inch aka springs rate should be same as what the strut can handle right. lets say koni strut can handle 400. so the springs should be 400 or around that. but if the spring is measured per inch. springs are usualy longer or shorter with other springs. so my question is if strut wants 400 pound per inch of the spring. and lets say 2 springs are 400 but one is 1in longer then the other one. would the strut care about the diffrence or it makes no diffrence.

PS: dont mind me i duno wat im talkin about

read over this i think it will help you out. at least it helped me understand it better

compare C-lbs/inch, to Fc-lbs with different lengh springs.

http://www.ground-control.com/?D=6c28f6e8cff872a01ae2a9181cedb895
 

ner0x

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thats good stuff to know, i need new shock and springs. my cut springs arn't cutting it. lol
 

pimp_threats

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so what brand is good for yur money is tokiko good and sustec pro good for an ek
 

SpecialED

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Myogi_Nightkid said:
got this from Jonas of CHB months ago and i'm sure some of the CHB members here have read it:

. . .
Not sure what all the hype is about pillow ball mounts, but they're not necessary for our cars and they do nothing from what I can tell.


anyone want to make this a sticky? 8)
Most of the information originally posted is OK, but this is statement is asinine.

Pillow ball mounts definitely do something. They replace a rubber bushing that allows for movement/angle change at the top of a strut-based suspension with a spherical metal bearing. This minimizes unwanted suspension geometry changes, preserving the intended caster angle and camber gain under load. It also provides a more precise feel to the driver because there is less slop in the steering. Even though the bearing is more precise/tighter, it can also minimize binding that can occur with a less expensive, rubber-bushing design. Finally, many pillow ball mounts also provide for valuable camber and/or caster adjustment via a sliding range of the fixing bolts, or fixed adjustment points with different bolt holes.

Are pillow ball mounts where I would start to improve the suspension on a stock vehicle? No. But pillow mounts have a definite benefit and purpose.

I would start with alignment and tires, followed by more aggressive spring rates, damping, and swaybars. If you want ultimate handling and precision, consider urethane bushings, or even replacing soft bushing assemblies with Heim joints. Remember that all of these improvements come with a price though - they all sacrifice ride quality, comfort, and straightline stability to some degree. That's why the factory designed the car that way in the first place.
 

SiLent

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What are the spring rate on neuspeed race spring on a 99 si
 

Contender25

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Question, i "thought" you were suppose to put the springs rated higher on the front since the engine in the front of the car is more heavy then the back without nothing, another words 450P front/350P back is how i put on my last coilover set on my old hatchback, is this correct or bad?.
 


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