Shifter Stuck in Park, 5th Gen Civic

Cojoe15

New Member
Post new test results when you have time.

Happy voting!!!
I earlier voted on Saturday. Took about an hour waiting in lin.

ICU connector unplugged with connector D still plugged into ECU.
  1. Voltage of connector D pin 18 to ground with no key = 0v
  2. Voltage of connector D pin 18 to ground in ON (II) = .35v
  3. Voltage of connector D pin 18 on ECU to ground with brake pedal pressed in ON(II).= .35v
  4. Voltage of connector D pin 18 on ECU to ground with brake+accelerator pressed in ON(II) = .35v
  1. Voltage of the white/red unplugged from ICU with connector D plugged into the ECU in ON(II) = .35v
  2. Voltage of the white/red unplugged from ICU with connector D unplugged from ECU in ON(II) = 0v
  3. Continuity check between unplugged ICU connector (white/red wire) and unplugged connector D pin 18 with the key out. CONNECTED
 

Cojoe15

New Member
No I don't know anyone else with a 5th gen Honda civic.

D2= 0v
B7=.64V
D11=0V

All done with the key in On (II). If it's the ECU I'll take the car back to Honda since I have a warranty on the ECU for couple more weeks.
 


Cojoe15

New Member
Unplug ECU connector D and press brake pedal. Do you measure ~battery voltage?

Unplug ECU connector B. Do you measure continuity to body ground at B7 with shifter in Park??

Do ECU connector wire colors at the tested pins match those shown in post #13?

Is CEL code 7 thrown?
I get battery voltage on d2 unplugged when brake is pushed.
B7 is green. No continuity. Wonder if the ECU doesn't think the car is in Park. I did replace the safety neutral switch. Is there a wrong way in doing that? I have no check engine lights. I'm doing this on my phone. I can't check post 7 right now.
 

Cojoe15

New Member
Unplug ECU connector D and press brake pedal. Do you measure ~battery voltage?

Unplug ECU connector B. Do you measure continuity to body ground at B7 with shifter in Park??

Do ECU connector wire colors at the tested pins match those shown in post #13?

Is CEL code 7 thrown?
Not all of them match but they match from what the phearable.net sheet says.
 


Cojoe15

New Member
What wire colors do you see at B7 and D11?

At this point, it's unclear that the ECU get the B7 (shift position console) or D11 (TPS output) signal. The brake signal is fine.

Does the CEL work?
B7 is green and D11 is light blue. The CEL does work. In ON (I) gauge cluster test it turns on and goes off after 10 or so seconds. When I had Bank connector disconnected in the on (II) test the c.e.l. stayed on. I checked the tps output directly on the sensor and it worked fine. I don't think I can text that by myself because that it opening the throttle by hand going from .5v upto 4.5v watching it at the ECU. There is this oily substance in connector D. It's really light but it's there. I wonder if just enough of it connected two pins and shorted something out.
 

Cojoe15

New Member
Based on your past testing results, I think the 0V reading at D11 may be a testing error. If the lack of continuity to ground at pin B7 repeats, it may explain the problem.

However, if you can purchase a spare good ECU for $35, then do it. I think your car has a D15B7 engine, so be sure to obtain a P06 ECU for an automatic transmission.
Yeah it has a D15B7 in it. I didn't think it mattered as long as it was a 5th gen Honda Civic 1.5L automatic. Thanks for the clarification. I'll pick that up tomorrow and if I plug it in and everything works, I'm going to take it to Honda and have them replace it with another one. Do you have any paperwork on the computer codes like you said a P06 ECU.
 

Cojoe15

New Member
37820-P06-A5x will work. However, there are some exceptions, so Google the code of any P06 ECU you find to verify that it is for an auto trans.

https://www.hondata.com/tech-ecu-identification
Okay so it doesn't matter what ECU I get as long as it's P06-A5x lol. Honda data broke down what each thing means. I wonder if I get a later revision of P06-A5 if it'll have something updated in it. I'm pretty sure the car at the junk yard that I got the interlock control unit and shift lock solenoid was a 1994 Honda Civic DX auto. That should be exactly what I need. I should get it by 4:30pm EST. I wonder if Honda will respect their warranty coverage on the ECU. The receipt says that I'll have to pay a maximum of $25 for labor charges. ECU is covered under the warranty being still within a year and under 12k miles.
 

Cojoe15

New Member
Just curious, did Honda sell you a new, refurbished, or used ECU? What did they charge you?

The bottom of the receipt says "All parts are new unless other wise depicted" that was with the warranty information about 12 months or 12k miles. I put less than 5k on it in the year. In the body of the receipt it doesn't say anything about the condition of the unit. I paid $150 for the part and $340 for labor which is funny because it takes about 10 minutes to pull out and 10 minutes to put in unless they had to flash it but you would think that would be a standard $100/hr type of charge. Grand total was $512 last November (2015). I remember them telling me that they couldn't figure out the problem and one of the techs pulled an ECU out of another car and my car started right up. There was a C.E.L. on. You would think that the dealership scanner would say that this car is f***ed up and to replace the computer. Not guess. I'm going to print out the important pages from the service manual and write down all the voltages I have to make a clear case that there is something wrong with the ECU only if the junk yard one works. I'm really hoping that's the case. If it is bad, I'm upset that I paid $512 for an ECU that became bad within a year. Have you ever heard of that happening? Everything on the car works just fine except the shift lock. It also took the Honda dealership about a week and half to get the ECU.
 

Cojoe15

New Member
That's clearly a huge bill, but typical of what to expect from the Honda dealer.
Yeah something I wasn't expecting. I've been working on this car for a while and it's a secondary car. For a while now I've been thinking about doing the K24/K20 swap in this car. It's not my main car. The car has been garage kept all it's life and it in great condition. When I redid all the suspension on the car I was thinking about what the car needed as if it was going to be a street/track car. Anyways, I contacted the dealer and they have my set up for an appointment on November 22. I'm going to print out those pages of the service manual and write down all the voltages to take with me. The guy said that they'll have to double check over all my work of course but if it does turn out to be a bad ECU I wont get charged a dime. I got his name for that one lol. If it doesn't turn out to be the ECU I'll have to pay a $100 diagnostic fee but really look at everything I've tested. I went to the junk yard today and literal every civic had it's ECU taken. What really sucks is the car that I took the interlock control unit and shift lock solenoid from came there that day. That was on Sunday 11/6. Wish I would of gotten it then. It was a 1995 Honda Civic DX with an auto. It would of been the perfect match. Those ECU gremlins!! For fun I'm going to even look at the connectors A, B, and D on the ECU again and see if anything else has to do with the braking and shifting portion. I look at the wire again that you think I had a bad reading on. Maybe I didn't have the car in ON(II) or something. I know the car registers shifting through gears on the instrument cluster and the transmission according to what I'm actually in so you would think the ECU would know what gear I'm in. Never know though.
 

Cojoe15

New Member
If you study the circuit diagram, you'll see that this^ assumption is incorrect. It is possible for the cluster gear lights to work without ECU pin B7 receiving ground through the shift position console switch. If pin B7 can't be grounded, then the ECU would never know that the transmission is in park.
I see what you are talking about. To look at this I took off the safety neutral switch last night and moved it around. It did change the lights on the dash. I had the car in the ON (II). I thought I messed up on putting the new one on. I did go as far as testing B7 again. I had continuity from Green2 going to park (green/white) and neutral (green) [page 23-155]. I'm pretty confident that the ECU knows what's going on with that section. I did how ever see if there was continuity between the green/white wire coming out of the Interlock Control Unit to the green/white wire going to the safety neutral switch. I retested the key interlock system built into the steering wheel last night too [page 23-150]. I'm getting battery voltage in the white/green wire going into the key interlock switch/key interlock solenoid. Then only when the key bottoms out in the switch and you push (it has probably about a mm or 2 give after it bottoms out) I get battery voltage coming out of white/blue and white/yellow going to the interlock control unit. I'm also getting battery voltage at the shift lock solenoid on the yellow and yellow/black wires. Black wire coming out of interlock control unit has continuity to ground. I checked the TPS and it was good with steady voltage drop. I how ever didn't check continuity between the TPS red/blue to ECU. Looking at the interlock control system on page 1243/1258 PDF format, the only thing that is part of the is the safety neutral switch, the key solenoid and the interlock control unit. In that circuit you have four wires that go to the ECU.
  1. Green/Blue from Drive3 of the safety nutral switch
  2. Green/Black from Drive4 of the safety neutral switch
  3. Green coming from ECU to Park and Neutral on the safety neutral switch
  4. White/Red coming from Interlock Control unit.
I want to test all of these to see if I have continuity. (We have tested some)

I'm looking at page 23-151 and it says NOTE: If the shift lock solenoid clicks when the ignition switch is ON (II) and the brake pedal is pushed (the shift lever is in P and he accelerator is in its rest position), the shift lock system is electronically normal. If the shift lever cannot be shifted from position P, see page 23-162 and section 14. That's almost exactly what is happening to me. When you put the car in ON (II) you can see the shift lock solenoid jump a bit like it's doing a self test. BUT when you press on the brake pedal either in the ON (II) or while car is running the shift solenoid does not release the gear shifter from park. Page 23-162 is an Integrated Control Unit. Looks like it is plugged into the back of the fuse box. I did see a black box behind the fuse box while doing all this testing but never tested anything with it because I didn't think it was part of the system. Looks like it does a bulb check for the brake lights, seat belt/key reminder beep (which mine doesn't work). I can have the key in the ignition with the car off open the door and I don't hear a ding-ding. I checked that last night and the only time I hear a reminder ding is if I push the key past it's bottoming out point like I did with the key interlock/key solenoid test. Do you think the only reason that the Interlock System mentioned this was because of the bulb check system built into the Integrated Control Unit. I checked all my light bulbs couple days ago and everything seemed fine. I'm going to stop by Advance after work and purchase the rear lights meaning all the lights on page 23-181. I don't think I checked brake/taillight bulb in the trunk lid. If this comes down to a bad light bulb, I might just blow up. lol. What are your thoughts on all of this?


This is what we know that is testing good:
  1. Key interlock switch/key interlock solenoid
  2. Shift Lock solenoid
  3. We know that the white/red wire is connected to the ECU in connector D pin 18 due to a continuity test.
  4. We know that the there is continuity on the green/white (connected to Park) wire on the safety neutral switch going to the interlock control unit plug.
  5. The connector going to the Interlock Control unit (all wires) are testing the way they should.
  6. Throttle Positioning Sensor test 4.5v when fully open and nice steady voltage drop all the way to close with .5v.
  7. I checked all fuses last night under the dash. All passed continuity test.
 

Cojoe15

New Member
The ECU requires three separate input signals (voltage from both the [1] brake and [2] TPS and ground from the [3] shift position switch) to properly control the shift solenoid. Based on your test results, it appears that all three input signals are fine. This represents strong evidence suggesting that the ECU is the culprit.
I'll find out when I take it to the dealer on the 22. I'm hoping a car will come into the junk yard that I can take the ECU out of. An LX version come into today. Drats. I'll post results when I find out more.
 

Cojoe15

New Member
Auto? $35? If so, it would suffice for testing the Interlock system. If the ECU is good, then you could sell it on eBay for a profit or to recover your investment.
I'll have a look at the vintage number and see if it's an auto.
 

Cojoe15

New Member
Auto? $35? If so, it would suffice for testing the Interlock system. If the ECU is good, then you could sell it on eBay for a profit or to recover your investment.
1HGEG865XRL038836

Looks to be a 1994 Honda Civic LX 1.5L Auto. Any ECU from picknpull is $35. I could return it up to 30 days. So you're saying I could use this ECU to test the interlock feature but not use it drive with?
 

Cojoe15

New Member
Nice!

You may want to scout the car for more goodies. =)

View attachment 28473
This junk yard has so many civics it's awesome!! My DX is almost fully converted. Working on power locks and power windows. I put in a new instrument cluster with the tech, put speakers in the rear deck and got the carpet/speaker covers so it looks stock. Got a lot of engine stuff for this D15B7.


Guess what?! It was the ECU!! Looks like Honda owes me a new ECU. I'll upload a YouTube video and post the link so you can see what I'm talking about.
 

Cojoe15

New Member
Congrats. Nice work.

The first one is the ECU I got from the junk yard and the second one is the ECU I got from Honda last year. Thank you so much boofoo. I wonder if we can sticky this. All these voltages and diagrams could help someone else someday. I ended up walking out of the junk yard with the ECU being $28. $4 for the core.

 


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