oh thats a simple upgrade thanks. ill look into this when I do my wire tuck 
Sound System Suggestion
- Thread starter prodigy803
- Start date
Aloha prodigy803!
This is what I would recomend for your setup... You can enjoy all the sound of your system when you have a hatch. I love hatch`s because of that. So you will like to have a good sound quality, trust me on this.
This is what I would recomend for your setup...
Headunit:
You already have a great one, so I will stick on to that.
Speakers:
Front:
GTO608C from JBL
160mm/170mm (6-1/2" • 6-3/4") 2-Way Component System
Frequency Response50Hz – 21kHz
ConePlus One® (patent pending) woofer cone
CrossoverOutboard crossover system
Impedance2 ohms
Mounting Depth52mm (2-1/16")
Power handling, peak210W
Power handling, RMS70W
Sensitivity (2.83V @ 1m)92dB
SeriesGrand Touring
Tweeter25mm (1") My-Ti™ tweeter
Tweeter protection (PTC) Yes
Tweeter-level control Yes
Back:
GT5-963 from JBL
6" x 9" 3-Way Coaxial System
Frequency Response50Hz – 20kHz
ConePlus One woofer cone
Impedance4 ohms
Mounting Depth72mm (2-3/16")
Power handling, peak210W
Power handling, RMS70W
Sensitivity91dB
SeriesGT5
For the L7:
This is the amp you can use
GT5-A3001 from JBL
A 300-watt mono subwoofer amplifier with on-board variable electronic crossover
The GT5-A3001 brings studio-quality audio to your car. With total peak power of 600 watts but dimensions of only at dimensions of only 2-1/8" (54mm) high, 9-1/4" (235mm) wide and 12" (305mm) deep, the GT5-A3001 is compact but mighty. Features include a cast-aluminum heatsink, built-in electronic crossover networks and auxiliary line-level outputs. Full-range preamp outputs are provided, facilitating multiple amplifier hookups without the need for high-loss Y-adapters or signal splitters.
450-Watt Mono Subwoofer Amplifier
Auxiliary outputs Yes
Back-litJBL® logo
Class ABYes
Crossover type (12dB/oct., 20Hz – 320Hz; sub) LP
Dimensions (L x W x H)305mm x 235mm x 54mm (12" x 9-1/4" x 2-1/8")
Output power (RMS, ≤1% THD + N; 1 ohm) 300W
Output power (RMS, ≤1% THD + N; 2 ohms) 225W
Output power (RMS, ≤1% THD + N; 4 ohms) 175W
SeriesGT5
Signal-to-noise (@ 1W) 95dBA
With this mono amp you are going to enjoy that sub!
With this setup you will have great sound quality, nice bass and the headunit will be able to handle the hole system, no extra amps needed in my opinion.
Oh! I forgot, if you want to put a good batterie get an Optima Red Top, top of the line man...
http://www.optimabatteries.com/optima_products/redtop/index.php
A hui hou.
Pomaikai.
This is what I would recomend for your setup... You can enjoy all the sound of your system when you have a hatch. I love hatch`s because of that. So you will like to have a good sound quality, trust me on this.
This is what I would recomend for your setup...
Headunit:
You already have a great one, so I will stick on to that.
Speakers:
Front:
GTO608C from JBL
160mm/170mm (6-1/2" • 6-3/4") 2-Way Component System
Frequency Response50Hz – 21kHz
ConePlus One® (patent pending) woofer cone
CrossoverOutboard crossover system
Impedance2 ohms
Mounting Depth52mm (2-1/16")
Power handling, peak210W
Power handling, RMS70W
Sensitivity (2.83V @ 1m)92dB
SeriesGrand Touring
Tweeter25mm (1") My-Ti™ tweeter
Tweeter protection (PTC) Yes
Tweeter-level control Yes
Back:
GT5-963 from JBL
6" x 9" 3-Way Coaxial System
Frequency Response50Hz – 20kHz
ConePlus One woofer cone
Impedance4 ohms
Mounting Depth72mm (2-3/16")
Power handling, peak210W
Power handling, RMS70W
Sensitivity91dB
SeriesGT5
For the L7:
This is the amp you can use
GT5-A3001 from JBL
A 300-watt mono subwoofer amplifier with on-board variable electronic crossover
The GT5-A3001 brings studio-quality audio to your car. With total peak power of 600 watts but dimensions of only at dimensions of only 2-1/8" (54mm) high, 9-1/4" (235mm) wide and 12" (305mm) deep, the GT5-A3001 is compact but mighty. Features include a cast-aluminum heatsink, built-in electronic crossover networks and auxiliary line-level outputs. Full-range preamp outputs are provided, facilitating multiple amplifier hookups without the need for high-loss Y-adapters or signal splitters.
450-Watt Mono Subwoofer Amplifier
Auxiliary outputs Yes
Back-litJBL® logo
Class ABYes
Crossover type (12dB/oct., 20Hz – 320Hz; sub) LP
Dimensions (L x W x H)305mm x 235mm x 54mm (12" x 9-1/4" x 2-1/8")
Output power (RMS, ≤1% THD + N; 1 ohm) 300W
Output power (RMS, ≤1% THD + N; 2 ohms) 225W
Output power (RMS, ≤1% THD + N; 4 ohms) 175W
SeriesGT5
Signal-to-noise (@ 1W) 95dBA
With this mono amp you are going to enjoy that sub!
With this setup you will have great sound quality, nice bass and the headunit will be able to handle the hole system, no extra amps needed in my opinion.
Oh! I forgot, if you want to put a good batterie get an Optima Red Top, top of the line man...
http://www.optimabatteries.com/optima_products/redtop/index.php
A hui hou.
Pomaikai.
Genuine Rolla
Its PETEY PETE, y0!
Registered VIP
Registered OG
5+ Year Member
10+ Year Member
15+ Year Member
Ok I don't know how you make a poll but any votes on which setup would be the best? Out of eggys and gabo's...
he's telling u to power a 750 watt sub with a 300 watt amp...
come on lol
come on lol
Yeah I was looking at that too lol I was giving the benefit of the doubt maybe he'd redeem himself haha
I don´t that setup will work dude...
It won't
OK eggyhustles what is the point here? Make a suggestion right?
I suggested this amp just because of the price, and the sound quality you want to have from the whole system. Ok but if the setup on this car is for competition I will go with the 1k amp def... But I don´t see that this is the objective.
I had and L7 with this amp and it worked for me, got good bass, not that loud, you can really enjoy the whole system with something like this. I don´t like a car that all you can heard from the outside is only the bass and the whole car making noise because of the large sub/amps you could be running...
But Prodigy this are only my 2 cents... It´s your car, your money, your ears...
I suggested this amp just because of the price, and the sound quality you want to have from the whole system. Ok but if the setup on this car is for competition I will go with the 1k amp def... But I don´t see that this is the objective.
I had and L7 with this amp and it worked for me, got good bass, not that loud, you can really enjoy the whole system with something like this. I don´t like a car that all you can heard from the outside is only the bass and the whole car making noise because of the large sub/amps you could be running...
But Prodigy this are only my 2 cents... It´s your car, your money, your ears...
dude, you're telling him to power a 750 watt sub with a 300 watt amp. sound quality? with an l7? seriously?
also, where's the amp for the speakers?
also, where's the amp for the speakers?