JDMBuilderB20B
New Member
I already know that the B20B is just a bored out LS block. What I'm wondering is sense the displacement is different would I be looking for different performance parts?
a B20 bottom end is essentially a B18 block bored to 2L.(ninja edit, didn't bother to read the other responses)Won't the 2.0 bottom end differ in parts? Because the b18 would use different parts because of the displacement
Those kind of numbers I would be okay with. 270 is just the goal. I'm pretty sure with the right tuning I could get to 270. But I just want to be able to go to the local street races and be able to spank on some cars. (Mostly subie because the community for subie here in idaho is a bunch of guys that don't know anything about cars)a B20 bottom end is essentially a B18 block bored to 2L.(ninja edit, didn't bother to read the other responses)
I would expect a 12.5:1 CR at the least and some good fuel (e85 or better) and large cams. There's a large All motor dyno thread on honda-tech that could be very useful for you to see what it takes to make that kind of power
Here is an example of a B20vtec setup...that is far short of your goal
B20vtec....
2000si head no pnp
Full supertech valve train flat valves
Skunk2 pro3 cams
Aem tru time cam gears
Edelbrock performer X mani
Blox 76mm throttle body
Bisi rep header custom 3' down pipe
B20 84.5mm
Wiseco forged pistons 13:1 comp
Golden eagle rods
Polished balanced n blue printed b20 crank
Act lightened flywheel
Act 6 puck clutch un-sprung
Jdm type R tranny 4.4 final
Tuned on e85
232whp/159tq
If those numbers are okay, then you see how small your initial plans were in comparison. Also, it would more than the right tuning to get to that 270 goal even coming from a setup like the one I posted. Almost a full rebuild in-fact....Those kind of numbers I would be okay with. 270 is just the goal. I'm pretty sure with the right tuning I could get to 270. But I just want to be able to go to the local street races and be able to spank on some cars. (Mostly subie because the community for subie here in idaho is a bunch of guys that don't know anything about cars)
That's what I plan to dl. This motor will sit on a motor stand for awhile before I get all the parth into it.If those numbers are okay, then you see how small your initial plans were in comparison. Also, it would more than the right tuning to get to that 270 goal even coming from a setup like the one I posted. Almost a full rebuild in-fact....
So Subie owners don't know what's up, but you're here asking about how to build your car? You do know a 270whp B series wont be daily capable, and suck pretty much suck at doing anything than being at WOT. It will have to be a pretty much 100% track committed car.Those kind of numbers I would be okay with. 270 is just the goal. I'm pretty sure with the right tuning I could get to 270. But I just want to be able to go to the local street races and be able to spank on some cars. (Mostly subie because the community for subie here in idaho is a bunch of guys that don't know anything about cars)
I know how to build my car, I ask for suggestion and tips. I kniw that it'll be a track car, that's why I'll only be using it for the illegal drags and to run at the local strip. 270whp is not too much for the streets at all.So Subie owners don't know what's up, but you're here asking about how to build your car? You do know a 270whp B series wont be daily capable, and suck pretty much suck at doing anything than being at WOT. It will have to be a pretty much 100% track committed car.
You aren't talking about a boosted setup. You're talking about a very high compression, very gnarly cam profile and that even the slightest f**k up in the build equals scrap metal engine. I was confused as to if you knew what you were getting into since your plan was not going to land you anywhere near where you thought it was. I hope you have some really sticky tires going up against those AWD.I know how to build my car, I ask for suggestion and tips. I kniw that it'll be a track car, that's why I'll only be using it for the illegal drags and to run at the local strip. 270whp is not too much for the streets at all.
I planned on getting street slicks. 90% of the cars out here I'll be racing are stock. This is strictly for kicking ass on the street and people to be all "damn, nice all motor honda"You aren't talking about a boosted setup. You're talking about a very high compression, very gnarly cam profile and that even the slightest f**k up in the build equals scrap metal engine. I was confused as to if you knew what you were getting into since your plan was not going to land you anywhere near where you thought it was. I hope you have some really sticky tires going up against those AWD.
If you know how to build your car....yet don't know that you'll be extremely far off from your "goal"....and you think slightly breaking the 200whp mark will be seen as a fast all motor Honda....it just doesn't add up.I know how to build my car, I ask for suggestion and tips. I kniw that it'll be a track car, that's why I'll only be using it for the illegal drags and to run at the local strip. 270whp is not too much for the streets at all.
That info is like 9 years old, sleeving blocks is lightyears better now. Not to mention that is a custom length rod setup with a taller than factory deck height. It's basically not even a B series Honda engine but rather a Dart shortblock with a massively worked head.I'd begin to wonder if a B series NA build is worth the investment. Child up above has a well documented K24 build that's generating the HP goals you've stated. There was a Honda Tuning article awhile back that had a B20 motor which made 150hp per liter. Would be worth a look to consider what goes into that caliber of build.
http://www.superstreetonline.com/features/0705-ht-endyn-b20-build/
Good luck impressing those 15yo girls and flat bills by beating stock cars with your "monster" built all motor Civic. Your DA9 really is in a better place now.That is a fast all motor honda for pump gas, you guys can f**k yourselves and I'll just do the build how I want then post the dyno.
Right I agree, my example though not perfect was meant to exaggerate the differences between a high HP B and K series platform. With the 270 hp goal in mind a K series would deliver better reliability and opportunity for increased HP beyond current goals.That info is like 9 years old, sleeving blocks is lightyears better now. Not to mention that is a custom length rod setup with a taller than factory deck height. It's basically not even a B series Honda engine but rather a Dart shortblock with a massively worked head.
and then you proceed to argue about what we say lol.So, my DA9 Integra has recently been deemed too much work chassis wise for a clean build and Daily Driver. My plan is to pull the JDM B20B with around 90k miles on it and put it on an engine stand for a B20B with the B16B Type R VTEC head a.k.a. the "Tegro Type R" (My DA's name was "Tegro" I love that car a lot and am sad to have to get rid of him, but the time has come.) and put it into an EG coupe. I plan to use a GSR or B16 transmission and a P30 ECU. My power goal will be around 270whp so I can take this thing to the cruise downtown and walk on some ricers. I was thinking forged internals, built head, oil pressure sensor, true cold air, full exhaust, ect. This car is going to be a tribute to my DA. I would like to know any tip, pointers, advice, and suggestions on any parts to use to achieve my goal. I'm open to anything. Please no s**t talking telling me I'm a retard. I know what I'm doing, I used to work at a performance Honda shop, I just wanted to see what yall thought and have to say. I will make this my main build thread and post pics as I go along if I remember. Go.