The truth: D16 bolt-ons
- Thread starter Indy_Civic
- Start date
Well, I was just chillin with my homie tonight with his EJ1. Ran 11.4 on a fully built single cam, stock full interior, on si rims and drag radials. Another friend of ours ran 12.4 on a stock internals d16z6 with a head gasket and head studs @ 13.5 psi in his full interior eg hatchback. I love single cams, I'd personally rather have one than my B16.
good info.
=Di think the various reply's are good but when it all comes down to it. it is in the eye of the beholder. each person wants his/or her own personality in it. come on now how many nice lookin rides have we all seen , but pop the hood and what is that a motor from a yugo. some just want the look with a little buz in the exhaust. but at the end of the day it is the owners pride that counts...
true.. but the thread is trying to help stop the same questions from being asked..
XeroReboot
Z6-All Motor
I just bought a 1995 Civic Coupe with the D16Z6 and it has all the mods that's described in that article already. So what's next besides a turbo, a new cam profile? Cause my friend has the same car and engine, but without the header, exhuast and intake and his isn't nearly as snappy as mine, granted the car only has 125hp stock, but still. If those numbers are accurate, then I'm sitting on around 135-140HP with just a few mods i didn't have to pay for. I had my 1989 MR2-Supercharged stolen, which is why i bought the Civic and man I miss that quick punch and snappiness and it only had 145hp at the wheel, but did have another 20ft lbs of torque. The cars weight only around 200lbs different, so I'm looking for the same kind of snap that used to put my passenger's head in the seat without having to drop $1,500 for a turbo. Anyone have some ideas?
the numbers in the article are correct, your car with intake, header, and exhaust should be laying down 110-118 whp. That 125 you're referring to is flywheel horsepower. You're not going to easily mimic the power of your mr2 because:
1) your single cam isnt boosted
2) you;re front wheel drive now, not rear
3) torqueless
XeroReboot
Z6-All Motor
Yeah, I'm thinking of just dropping in a B18 cause this single cam, gutless Z6 is just pissing me off. I don't want a B16, cause I hear they're pretty gutless too unless you're riding around redline all the time. Although I hear the Z6 does turbo quite well...
William Samuel
New Member
If it's a daily just go with the cheaper and get that thing working especially if you need it asap. If you plan on modifying the car, then you'll have to decide on the engine you feel will suit you best. The B16A (SiR I) is rated at 160hp/111trq while the B16A (SiR II) is rated at 170hp/113trq. As for the B18c there is the B18C (GSR) rated at 180hp/126trq and the B18C (Type R) rated at 200hp/134trq.
I have looked into an NA Dseries setup for a while now and yes the boltons help but thoes 3 boltons are way to expencive, cheeper options are out there and will perform just as good if not better, your paying for a name.
ebay cai
dc sport header
2.5" mandural bend muflershop exhaust job will cost you what? 1/4 if that of the msrp cost of that catback?
You want to make power NA, up the compression to the 11:1, 12:1 range, Eather high comp pistons or mill the head.
Get a stage 2 or higher cam and a adjustable camgear, Most cams will work with the stock valvetrain, many just require better springs, get some new stock keepers and retainers.
Larger injectors and a tune, couple this with a noname brand CAI/SRI and a cheap quality header and you got yourself a potent pumpgas NA Dseries.
You want to get even more out of it? get a aftermarket IM or ITBs or a carbsetup, Larger TB, bisi header(baller status), the list is endless with what you can do but it comes down to compression, cams and a tune for an NA D, figure out what comp you want, what cam you want and then do you want to mill the head or do you want high comp pistons?
But then again 90% of honda owners are dragracers so stick to your turbo, I will like to keep my low end power and torque for comming out of that righthand corner.
ebay cai
dc sport header
2.5" mandural bend muflershop exhaust job will cost you what? 1/4 if that of the msrp cost of that catback?
You want to make power NA, up the compression to the 11:1, 12:1 range, Eather high comp pistons or mill the head.
Get a stage 2 or higher cam and a adjustable camgear, Most cams will work with the stock valvetrain, many just require better springs, get some new stock keepers and retainers.
Larger injectors and a tune, couple this with a noname brand CAI/SRI and a cheap quality header and you got yourself a potent pumpgas NA Dseries.
You want to get even more out of it? get a aftermarket IM or ITBs or a carbsetup, Larger TB, bisi header(baller status), the list is endless with what you can do but it comes down to compression, cams and a tune for an NA D, figure out what comp you want, what cam you want and then do you want to mill the head or do you want high comp pistons?
But then again 90% of honda owners are dragracers so stick to your turbo, I will like to keep my low end power and torque for comming out of that righthand corner.
in a D-series? lol Our honda's make thier peak torque high in the rpm range as well, not down low.
by the time you buy a cam, valvetrain, cam gear, injectors, and high comp pistons you could have had a ridiculous turbo setup. Gotta keep in mind that there are small quick spooling turbos as well for a track car
XeroReboot
Z6-All Motor
Not true, Cam, Cam Gear, Clutch, Flywheel, pullies, short shifter and intake manifold is all going to run me about $800-850. The only turbo kit i'm going to get for that price is a cheesy Ebay one and I'd STILL have to fork over even more for either install or a proper tune IF that kit didn't totally suck ballz.
Thats a few dollars less than I spent on my turbo kit and I dont think im at 118whp haahah.
But seriously, an eBay CAI, exhaust, and header will yield similar if not the same numbers. For a huge fraction of the cost.
Mines working fine. And if you want the most power out of the cam cam gear, flywheel etc, youre still gunna need a tune.
well considering you left out the valvetrain, injectors, and high compression pistons you've left out a big chunk of the power and cut the costs down to once again hardly gain anything.
an aggressive camshaft with a stock valvetrain is just gonna drop a valve sooner than later so that cam gear to help advance timing wont be much help...since the cam cant utilize its potential the intake manifold gains are minimized, pullies make power gains similar to upgrading your grounding system, clutch doesn't make power it transfers power (the little you'll be making) and yay for the free'd up rotational mass from the flywheel.
and if your adding the cost of an install and tune to F/I also consider it for your N/A setup because it'd be pretty dumb to install a cam and not degree it and tune
Not to mention, you'll have invest in both anyway, Turbo= More air.. how are you going to properly balance that out?... I /H /E. Balance, proper balance. and as child stated investing in proper parts as to not crap out your engine and hard work/money.
do thing's right the first time. 3rd time's the charm shouldn't apply to money and our engines.
do thing's right the first time. 3rd time's the charm shouldn't apply to money and our engines.