Trunk setup?

[AutoFanatik]

Ok so im tired of my trunk floorboard sagging from water damage and my sub, so im thinkin of gettin some MDF from Home Depot or Lowes and making a new floor. Of course i'll wrap it in grey carpetting so that it matches and so that it wont rattle against the bottom of the trunk. I made this design in MSPaint to kinda show what i was thinkin about doin.



The stuff thats in dotted lines is whats underneath the boards itself. The two solid lines running lengthwise are where the board is cut to make 3 pieces so that it can be removed from the trunk. The two little rectangles are where i was thinking of cutting holds for removing/lifting the middle piece, and they double as ventilation for the amp which i planned on mounting underneath and out of the way. Tell me what you think and if there are any ways to improve upon it.

 

[Beelzebubba]

MDF will be kind of heavy. you can get a sheet of hardboard that will be lighter and some of it comes faced with a more water resistant white facing. I think it's called tileboard ( I stuffed an 8X4 sheet in the back of my 'teg...it flexes pretty good )

Oh, and I'd move the amp to the seat back or if you are creative, you can fabricate an amp rack to hang below the rear parcel shelf.

 

[AutoFanatik]

Oh, and I'd move the amp to the seat back or if you are creative, you can fabricate an amp rack to hang below the rear parcel shelf.

ok, so you dont think it would be good underneath? and whats the rear parcel ur talkin about? the rear deck?

 

[Beelzebubba]

Meh more airflow and I like to showoff the amp...I'm kinda' ricey like that.

The rear "parcel shelf", assuming that you have a coupe or sedan, is the flat part between the backseat and rear window.

I've been planning on fabbing a amp rack myself out of plexiglass sheeting and some clear plexi dowels. I want to lightly sand the shelf portion so I can mount some LEDs in the dowel legs and make it light up. (rice!)
2 problems. I don't have a router to finish the edges, and I SUCK at working with plexiglass.

 

[Akiahara96]

imo, lighting isn't ricey when it's part of the stereo install.

it's just ricey everywhere else.

 

[AutoFanatik]

nah i dont think lighting is ricey. Unique Whips does it all the time and they dont do a lot of Japanese cars

 

[1999stockaccord]

looks alright man, when i did mine, I used 3/4" mdf, but you'd be better off with 1/2" or hardboard

As for the amp, i'd move it to either the back of the seat, or like mine and on the trunk wall where it can be seen and get some air. I hinged my floorboard so i can get to the spare and all with out moving the sub or interfering with the wires, ect

 

[aaren99]

i think a hinge on the middle board section would be a great idea, it would be more convenient to access the spare, tools etc without having to move the box over as stated above. Other than that i think its a great idea but i do have one question wouldnt the 2 outer boards rattle since they arent attached to anything? maybe a way to attach them to the middle section to make it sturdy.

 

[cvcc]

I am in the middle of my trunk overhaul... For my deck I used 1/4" hardboard panels sandwiched together. tough and flexible... total weight <10lbs

 

[Genuine Rolla]

hmm, you have a really great idea going man...i really like it. I want to do my trunk over as well and finally get my amp mounted in a better place...you could also maybe integrate a piece of plexiglass to show the amp, put a license plate neon under the amp to get it to glow if you wanted...just an idea.

 

[AutoFanatik]

do you not think it will get enough air if i put those holes in there?

 

[AutoFanatik]

*UPDATE*

so i decided im doing things a bit differently, but not too far off. Since my amp has the cooling fins on the top, the heat is supposed to disperse up, but if it's upside down, it would rise up back onto the amp and fry the circuits. So since i dont really wanna buy a new amp too, i came up with a solution. With the amp in the same location, recess it into the floor so that the tops of the cooling fins are flush with the top of the floor. this way you can still see the amp but none of the wire ug-ness. To do this i got metal straping (it's like 1.50 from home depot for a big roll of it) that has holes in it and is really easily bent, and i'm gonna bend it into an "S" like bracket so it will screw into the bottom of the MDF and then come down and i can put a bolt through the mounting holes on the corners of the amp. More pictures will come when i finish the project...

PS - oh and the sub itself might change...my parents got REALLY interested in subs all of a sudden (Christmas for sureeeee ) so i might be gettin a JL Audio 12W1v2

 

[Billy.]

you should forget the sound system and put in a cooler stocked with beer and slim jims...

 

[AutoFanatik]

trunk is done....and looks sexy as hell, will get pictures when i figure out whats wrong with my camera

 

[AutoFanatik]

So what I was going for was something that was clean, asthetically pleasing, and allowed me to adjust it. I know it's nothing HUGE and over the top, but the pictures don't do it any justice, it looks OEM and is great.


as you can see, plenty of room still in the trunk

 

[aaren99]

big props, came out really nice. Do you have your box mounted down so it doesnt slide around

 

[AutoFanatik]

Nah, there's enough friction to keep it from sliding

 

[Trey99EK]

Any pics of the back of the box?

 

[Akiahara96]

looks stockish.

 

[96greencivic]

Nice job. Where did you get the carpet from?