alright, well i got a bit done today. im getting down to final details on this firewall project and we all know the little s**t is what takes the most time. and there was not enough beer or time today to get it all done, but i did make some headway.
on to pics and hopefully the last things i have to do to this firewall b4 i mount my steering and my brakes, clutch and gas pedals..
ok, so i had already tubbed the old driver side(now the passenger side, yay) so i needed to tub the new driver side and make it work to have enough room for all the pedals, which seems easy, but its not when running big wheels..
so i really didnt want to tackle this project. probably the reason i left it for last..
anywho, heres how i did it, if anyone wants to lay out on 20's or bigger on ur civic, heres how u can do it too lol..
alright, so first u will want to cut out the existing sheetmetal. in my case, this truck had already been tubbed for 18's before and i really didnt like the way that we had done it. it was pretty half assed imo.
now i needed to trim the edge so i can turn corners when im laid out driving so i dont puncture my tires, so i took some out of it to match the other side and try to keep these things looking as close to the same as possible..
then i put my wheel on and jacked up the suspension to check clearance. i overcompensated from my 18's with a tire to make sure a 20 with a tire will fit without any rubbing issues. then i cut out a piece of 16 ga. sheetmetal again 10"x20" and bent it over my knee and tacked it into place. whatever excess u have will later be trimmed off with a cutoff wheel or a plasma or whatever u have to get the job done..
cradboard is a sheetmetal guys' best friend. i use it to make templates b4 i cut the metal out. so much easier and cheaper to fix cardboard than sheetmetal.
always measure and check s**t out a few times before actually cutting the metal out. and cut big. metal an always be trimmed down.
i try to weld everything up from the inside, and i use the stitch welding method on a lot of these tubs. a lot of people will say that stitch welding is bad or whatever, but i figure that this isnt a very structural part of the vehicle, so as long as it sticks to the other metal, and i carry a few beads for rigidity it will be sufficient..
this also makes it easier to grind down and keep cleaner and i can put my seam sealer on the indide of the truck to keep things cleaner down the road. even though nobody will ever see these unless they get down on their hands and knees and look, but s**t like this is important to me.
good labeling will save u a lot of grief. a lot of these littler pieces can get sonfusing if u cut more than one at a time, so an easy number or this side up mark will make it easier.
here it is tacked into place. just need one more piece and then u can weld it all up tight.
here it is all tacked into place. now u can go to town welding it up water tight.
now after i relocate a few things like my ecu, i will be able to mount my pedals and cut a hole in the firewall to mount my steering column.
here it is all welded up. i welded from the inside of the can and then ran a few stitch welds on the outside to fill holes and things. also there were a few places that the grinder wouldnt be able to reach, so i filled these spots with a weld to help with he smoothing process..
now on to the grinding. this is what takes forever and is loud and looks completely different the next day when ur sober..
passenger side gorund down and ready for filler..
driver side ground down and ready for filler. i was more successful in welding from inside the cab on the passenger side, so there was less grinding, and will be less filler. the finished product looks a lot smoother and took a lot less time in the long run.
now i just have to finish grinding the rest of my welds and get ready to fit my inner fenders. also i have to tuck the rest of the driver side tub to the bottom of the cab and trim the excess and weld that, but the extent of the big work is done..