Yeah, except for the 4 lock-nuts that are missing. At least you've got it all figured out...and warned the rest of us who plan on doing this mod.chimchim said:
Warning ordering 6th gen Si rear sway bar from HondaAutomotiveParts.com
- Thread starter chimchim
- Start date
I got lucky on my purchase on eBay. Paid $50 and the guy was in the penninsula so I took a nice drive down the strech to pick it up. Everything was complete except for the bolts which I got at home depot. It even came with a comptech box! 8)chimchim said:
Agreed. For daily drivers who don't abuse their cars I'm sure they wouldn't tear out... however..anekin007 said:
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=638838&page=1
Read the entire thing and follow the links. There has been some people that tear out thier subframes, but only due to harsh abuse over a period of time. The only fix for this would be getting a Type R subframe which is thicker... of course you can go for the other option of getting a Comptech-style tie/sway bar.
check this out, i been reading it since the first started. its a custom rear subframe. they had it on a itr bar then they are using a 32mm anti roll bar, its going to be a badass when it comes out.
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=785497&page=1
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=785497&page=1
It's not a subframe. It's actually just a brace, working in the same design aspect as the Comptech tie/sway bar is. But if it works better and is cheaper than the Comptech, it's definately worth taking a look at.anekin007 said:
Also remember the fact that they keep stating that having higher rear spring rates will also reduce the stress that the sway bar produces to the subframe. And, this rear brace seems all well, but he does indeed have reinforcement of the stock subframe already, with the welded plates on the inside. I would like to see how it would work with a stock subframe, especially with that monster 32mm bar.
Would definately keep an eye on this, especially with more people's experience on it.
Good info to know seeing as though Im still kinda a noob on that kind of suspension work. So a beaks kit with an Si or GSR rear bar would reduce the chance of subframe tearout or whatever?? I'd never do autox just daily driving.
Well i think everyone should be careful ordering a rear lower strut bar if ur exhaust goes over the suspension or under it.... my friends 98 civic had hks cat-bcak exhaust and was unable to put a rear lower strut bar on since it was either over the suspension or under it
The post is in the correct thread, but the information is semi-accurate (or misinterpretation of the definitions used). A rear lower strut bar a.k.a. rear tie bar, will not interfer with your exhaust system. A sway bar will however, and there has been some incompatibilities with some exhaust systems and sway bars.MyztikRacing said:
can you just insted of having to buy si endlinks, open new wholes on the civcs lower control arm so the integra bar endlinks fits? whould this represent a problem? wouldn't the si endlinks break? they seem very thin and weak compare to the bar specially if im talking about the Type R sway (22 mm) anybody have an opinion on this? thanks in andvancechimchim said:
you don't think this would represent a problem in acutally how the sway bar will work? just wannted to me sure before i "destroy my suspension" if you know what i meanchimchim said:
and would you know where to get the sub frame reinforcement?? beaks or that big old plate i saw earlyer on the post? i do have a ITR sway bar 22mm need something strong don't wanna rip that thing up thanks again anybody else feel free to give they're opinion it will be gratly apretiate it thanks
catback already installed, itr sway bar not yetwhy didnt you just get a 97?
i haven't intall the bar yet it came with its own itr endlinks i was planning on just making new wholes on the lower control arms to make those endlinks fit since they are about 1/2 inch off the factory whole, but not sure if that would work I have not heard anybody that has done that before so im not sure if that might reprensent any problems and reinforment don't have anything yet either i've heard of the beaks kit but not sure what to get. what can be t recomended? thanksanekin007 said:
I don't see why drilling holes would be a problem other than if the holes are too close to each other. The LCA's are not reinforced at the stock hole anyways, so it would seem that it's the same as if you had drilled it.
Moving the hole closer has a slight effect on the torque mechanics of the sway bar spring due to where it attaches, but I highly doubt any damage could occur. In fact, moving the hole closer to the LCA joint reduces the distance the endlink travels... which means less stress on the sway bar.
Moving the hole closer has a slight effect on the torque mechanics of the sway bar spring due to where it attaches, but I highly doubt any damage could occur. In fact, moving the hole closer to the LCA joint reduces the distance the endlink travels... which means less stress on the sway bar.