JL is amazing? can you prove that?
what amp for my new subs?
- Thread starter lucas29k
- Start date
im not sure what ohm my subs are. i cant find that sub anywhere on the internet to find out. from what ive researched its best to wire 2 subs to a mono d class amp instead of a 2 channel becuase its a lower independency or somethin. how would i wire these to subs to a mono amp? there is one set of voice coils on each subs so only 2 wires coming from each
since you dont know the resistance (ohms) of your subs, the best way to measure it would be to measure the resistance with a multimeter (you can pick up a cheap one for 10$ just about anywhere...thats all you need).
everything below is based on having two single voicecoil subs...keeping it simple. using a bridged 2 channel amp or a "mono block" type of amp.
if you have two 4 ohm subs and you wire them in parallel, you get a 2 ohm load.
if you have two 4 ohm subs and you wire them in series, you get an 8 ohm load (probably not what you are looking for).
if you have two 8 ohm subs and you wire them in parallel, you get a 4 ohm load.
if you have two 8 ohm subs and you wire them in series, you get a 16 ohm load (definately not what you are looking for).
i thumbed thru this link, and it might help a bit...
http://www.termpro.com/articles/spkrz.html
I recall something in this thread about someone having an amp that always got hot (maybe it was you) and ended up blowing. this is common if subs arent wired at the correct load rated for the amp (example, if your amp only goes down to a 4 ohm load when bridged and you run a 2 ohm load). on a good amp, sometimes you will get away with it for a while. if its a cheaper amp...pop!
but again, just get a multimeter and measure the resistance of the speaker, or bum one from a buddy. after you wire your subs, you can always verify the load is correct by measuring from the positive and negative wire BEFORE you hook them to the new amp.
yea, wish i could help. I actually used to know a digital audio dealer. he got me a set of 12's (sorry dont have the model # right now). mine are dual voice coil so you can get a little more flexable with the load. I used them for a month or so and sold the car they were in (kept the subs, amps, etc.). they have been sitting in my bedroom closet for well over 3 years now. Honestly, for an inexpensive sub, they f'in pound with a good amp (i was running them with an xtant). My daughter will get her licence in a year or so. they will be hers
ya i got them for a pretty good deal they just look a lil rough but sound fine. i only have a 800watt american pro amp and they beat pretty hard but thats probably overrated. since i looked the amp up and its only 50 dollars new lol so it cant be that good. ya i planned on using the cheap amp for my speakers but not sure how to do it really. i have a kenwood deck and all my stock speakers are replaced with pioneer. is there a way i can hook up all 4 to my 2 channel amp? and how would i do it? just disconnect wires from the headunit and run new ones from speakers to amp?
ive never bought off there. ive gotten good stuff at great prices from this web site:
www.caraudiodeals.com
its a pretty good site just not many things on it compared to others
+1. Digital "D" monoblock is the way to go
Go with Memphis Amp. They have always been good for me. I have had 3 or 4 and only one3 burnt up due to running on too big of subs.
What do you want me to prove??? They are known very well by anyone that truly knows systems for being a great quality product.... They have clean set ups, they make amazing subs, Amps that have TRUE RATED Power ratings... I've got nothing to prove... JL proves it's self... Go buy a w7 in the red Eye box, with a JL 1000x1... And run it properly and tell me I need something to prove.... Not trying to be a d**k.. Just saying until you have ran there systems don't say they are junk... Thats like saying Volk Wheels are Junk... Or TRUE Mugen Parts are junk...
Dude bend over and take it.... You are getting raped if you buy there... sure they can get a ton of s**t, great company, just way over priced.......
Yes Jl has always made good s**t. I had 2 10W7 and they were badass.
I used to run two w6 JL's with a Kicker Amp, man that was like 8 yrs ago... And no one could touch it back then.. They have changed a lot since then...But that was in my 75 VW, had no back seat just a custom box and Amp Rack... God I wish I had pictures.. That thing was AMAZING! Some ass holes broke in and stole it all....
I use to order from crutchfield, until I found sonicelectronix.com. They have a HUGE selection and better prices than crutchfield. Also they have free shipping.
Run new wires to your speakers so you wont have to cut and splice anything. Run a positive and negative wire to each speaker.
Have the left side speakers connect to the + and - of the amp's left and the right side speakers connect to the right + and -
You will need RCA cables from the HU to the AMP to produce sound. If you do not have the RCAs connected, your speakers will not have sound.
For the price you pay for jl, you can get wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy better stuff.
check out these brands
sundown
image dynamics
audioque
digital designs
resonant engineering
dc car audio
fi car audio
an fi q matched with a sundown 1000 would beat the crap out of any jl sub in sq or spl.
Imo it's probably the most overrated/overpriced company in all of car audio..it's is designed for noobs with money who go into their local car audio shop and eat up the s**t their dealer feeds them. The W7 is nothing special and their lower lines absolutely suck. (w1 w3)