Wow I got screwed...

blknpurple

New Member
FMFL!!! So wired up Vtec today, took a long ass time to make sure I got it right, instead of running the wires through the hole cut in the firewall, I ran the wires along side the pass fender, trying to hide them. So got everything solder, heat shrinked, and taped up, plugged in the P2P ECU, even installed the typeR lip....Went to start the car up, cranked a couple times then finally started. Runs like s**t!!! At idle, RPM keeps surging between 1500-1700, when in gear, the car surges and bogs when at low RPM. High RPM ranges work fine, VTEC seems to keep in around 6k? I thought for these VTEC usually kicks in lower? Anyways, CEL is on, like 30sec after the car started. Gonna check for codes tomorrow, right now I just wanna shoot my car....And yes, I disconnected the batt while doing the whole wiring thing.
 

blknpurple

New Member
Also, would the y8 intake manifold from an auto model make a difference?
 


Butterz

New Member
Also, would the y8 intake manifold from an auto model make a difference?
Yes, this is your issue. Automatic EKs have a 3 wire IACV, and manual ones have a 2 wire IACV. Try to get the IACV off of a manual Y8 intake manifold and put it on yours. That should fix your idle issues.
 


blknpurple

New Member
But the crazy idle is after I plugged in the P2P ECU...could it be that my P2E ECU that was on there originally were from an auto also? Is there any ways I can verify this? Would the ECU be labeled? Also, the intake manifold for the auto doesnt have the holes for the IACV to be bolted on, so I think I might have to replace the whole manifold.....wtf....
 

blknpurple

New Member
Checked CEL, code 14 and 23, IACV and knock sensor. I checked my IACV plug and it's a 3 wire plug. So I need a 2-wire plug. That means I gotta get the whole IM? For the knock sensor, I think the harness already is wired for it, I gotta find out where to install it then splice into the harness. This is becoming too much of a money pit for a dd/beater...I gotta decide is it worth the money and time...
 

blknpurple

New Member
So I can't get just a IACV since Id have to drill and tap new holes on the IM. So Ron, I can just get a plug and use the current IACV? Here's a pic of the A plug, pin A12 isn't free...


There's blk w/blue stripe wires at A12 and A14
 

RonJ

Banned
There's no OBD2a ECU that should have wires pinned to A12, A13, and A14.

The 2-wire ECU should only have a wire pinned at A12 ((none at A13 and A14).

The 3-wire ECU should only have wires pinned at A13 and A14 (none at A12).

What are the wire colors you see at A12, A13, and A14?
 

RonJ

Banned
There's no OBD2a ECU that should have wires pinned to A12, A13, and A14 (all three at once). For example:

The 2-wire ECU should only have a wire pinned at A12 (none at A13 and A14).

The 3-wire ECU should only have wires pinned at A13 and A14 (none at A12).

What are the wire colors you see at A12, A13, and A14?
 

RonJ

Banned
A12 and A14 have blk with blue stripe, A13 has Orange wire
If you carefully trace those three wires away from the ECU connector as far as you can, are any cut or spliced?

What wire colors do you see in the IACV connector? Are any of those cut or spliced?
 

blknpurple

New Member
Nothing been sliced as far as I can see, the wire looms are pretty much untouched..the wires color at the IACV are blk w blue stripe, orange, and yellow with blk stripe. BTW, is 200 for complete manifold a reasonable price?
 

blknpurple

New Member
K, upon further research, looks like I need to replace the whole IM or tap and drill the current IM. For those in my situation, here's a link to the drill and tap method:

http://www.d-series.org/forums/engine-building/135359-d16y8-auto-manual-swap-iac-problem.html

Here's a link for y7-y8 manifold swap, I think the y8 in the link is an automatic y8

http://www.onecamonly.com/showthread.php?t=2526

Another very informative read:

http://civic.gotskillslounge.com/civic stuff/DIY and How Tos/d16y8manifoldswap.pdf

As for my IACV wiring dilemma (having 2 blk wires w/blue stripe at A12 and A14), per RonJ's instruction, I'll test to see which one has power w/ the key on, eng off. I think which ever one has power w/the key on will be moved to A12 position per this guide:


I should be able to get my hands on a manual y8 mani by the end of the week or early next week....
 

Blayze2010

5th gen lover
Registered VIP
5+ Year Member
Looks like your in the same boat as me, trying to fix something that someone else f'ed up.
 


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