you can use RTV gasket maker but i wouldnt recommend it.... i say get the gasket and seal around it with RTV... it's more work but it's the right way to do it.... there is no way to be sure you sealed it correctly if you just squeeze RTV all over it with no gasket. if you use the gasket and RTV the gasket will make it flush and the RTV will fill in any imperfections in the seal..... more work for less long term stress IMO..... the gasket is any where from 10 - 20 dollars but it is well worth it in the long run..
HELP !! Leaking oil. Broke oil pan thread or screw?
- Thread starter TilhasBB
- Start date
Whats RTV?
Is there a how too on replacing the pan?
incase not In my mind, here's what I think I should do.
Drain the oil out.
remove the nuts holding the oil pan, and pull it down?
use brake cleaner on a paper towel to clean where the old gasket was.
put gasket and RTV then push pan up while putting on the nuts. Any torque or just as really tight it wont break.
Should I also replace the nuts because they look rusted. Stainless steel nuts? (anyone know the size) and how many?
Is there a how too on replacing the pan?
incase not In my mind, here's what I think I should do.
Drain the oil out.
remove the nuts holding the oil pan, and pull it down?
use brake cleaner on a paper towel to clean where the old gasket was.
put gasket and RTV then push pan up while putting on the nuts. Any torque or just as really tight it wont break.
Should I also replace the nuts because they look rusted. Stainless steel nuts? (anyone know the size) and how many?
REMOVAL
alright here is the game plan..... go to a parts store...."auto zone, o'reilly's, schucks," you get the picture.... pick up some liquid wrench, lacquer thinner, and RTV which is a brand of gasket maker( make sure it is oil resistant and stands up to high temperatures)and if you dont have one a small rubber mallet.... that stuff is a godsend when doing this. drain th oil from the pan, remove the oil filter, lube a new oil filter and put it in and then the fun starts.... spray everysingle little nut and bolt holding your oil pan on with liquid wrench... yes there are nuts they arent just bolts, let them sit for like ten minutes then take a crack at them they shouldnt be too shabby coming out i was able to reuse all mine. once they are all off of there and stored outta the way try to pull the oil pan IF IT DOESNT BUDGE DO NOT PRY WITH A SCREW DRIVER! just tap it with the rubber mallet and it will pop down. get a wire brush and the lacquer thinner on a cloth and get all that oil and old sealant off of the block, i know you got oil resistant RTV but residual oil wil prevent it from bonding to the surface as smoothly. there you go you just completed the removal....
REPLACEMENT
so you have this really nice new looking oil pan that you wanna install. well dont get used to it... get you RTV and your Gasket and get to work.... you wanna start with RTV on the oil pan first... spread a 1/8 inch thick bead along the top of the oil pan making sure to go around all the whole in a COMPLETE CIRCLE... that means trace the holes with the gasket sealer.... now put on the gasket make sure that everything looks properly sealed....you can get a flashlight and look on one side if you see light coming through where the gasket and oil pan meet apply more sealant. allow the RTV to set for ten minutes to save youself the trouble of the gasket slipping around when you are installing it. Now Rtv the top side of the gasket the same way you did the oil pan, next install the oil pan carfully RTV can become very messy and if you mess up too bad you will not get a proper seal, next start tightening the bolts and nuts FINGER TIGHT! until they are all on then start tightening from center and work outward both ways in a criss cross so you will not warp the pan. now there is a specific torque in the chiltons manual, but i never found what they were trying to reference it too but you should know when it feels like it is getting too tight and STOP... there is a chance you could buckle the flange of the oil pan due to overtightening... .so be careful with your judgement if it buckles it will leak..... any ways now that it is installed wait ! hour before adding oil the run that puppy and check for leaks...... i hope this helps, if it doesnt, take it to a mechanic cuz your dumb
alright here is the game plan..... go to a parts store...."auto zone, o'reilly's, schucks," you get the picture.... pick up some liquid wrench, lacquer thinner, and RTV which is a brand of gasket maker( make sure it is oil resistant and stands up to high temperatures)and if you dont have one a small rubber mallet.... that stuff is a godsend when doing this. drain th oil from the pan, remove the oil filter, lube a new oil filter and put it in and then the fun starts.... spray everysingle little nut and bolt holding your oil pan on with liquid wrench... yes there are nuts they arent just bolts, let them sit for like ten minutes then take a crack at them they shouldnt be too shabby coming out i was able to reuse all mine. once they are all off of there and stored outta the way try to pull the oil pan IF IT DOESNT BUDGE DO NOT PRY WITH A SCREW DRIVER! just tap it with the rubber mallet and it will pop down. get a wire brush and the lacquer thinner on a cloth and get all that oil and old sealant off of the block, i know you got oil resistant RTV but residual oil wil prevent it from bonding to the surface as smoothly. there you go you just completed the removal....
REPLACEMENT
so you have this really nice new looking oil pan that you wanna install. well dont get used to it... get you RTV and your Gasket and get to work.... you wanna start with RTV on the oil pan first... spread a 1/8 inch thick bead along the top of the oil pan making sure to go around all the whole in a COMPLETE CIRCLE... that means trace the holes with the gasket sealer.... now put on the gasket make sure that everything looks properly sealed....you can get a flashlight and look on one side if you see light coming through where the gasket and oil pan meet apply more sealant. allow the RTV to set for ten minutes to save youself the trouble of the gasket slipping around when you are installing it. Now Rtv the top side of the gasket the same way you did the oil pan, next install the oil pan carfully RTV can become very messy and if you mess up too bad you will not get a proper seal, next start tightening the bolts and nuts FINGER TIGHT! until they are all on then start tightening from center and work outward both ways in a criss cross so you will not warp the pan. now there is a specific torque in the chiltons manual, but i never found what they were trying to reference it too but you should know when it feels like it is getting too tight and STOP... there is a chance you could buckle the flange of the oil pan due to overtightening... .so be careful with your judgement if it buckles it will leak..... any ways now that it is installed wait ! hour before adding oil the run that puppy and check for leaks...... i hope this helps, if it doesnt, take it to a mechanic cuz your dumb
Gradeless> Thanks a million.
I am only worried about lifting my car high enough for me to be able to comfortable be able to put the pan on after the gasket and rtv smothly and doing all the screws.
I'll make a deal with my mechanic, i'll use his lift on the weekend and do it my self
(he is there sometimes when a customer asks for a rush and he's alone)
I am only worried about lifting my car high enough for me to be able to comfortable be able to put the pan on after the gasket and rtv smothly and doing all the screws.
I'll make a deal with my mechanic, i'll use his lift on the weekend and do it my self
(he is there sometimes when a customer asks for a rush and he's alone)
no problem man like i said take it slow and do it right and you wont have any future problems with it. don't get frustrated if it doesnt go smoothley the first time you try to put it back on, just take a break to catch your bearings and try it again after you fix the RTV.... NEVER WORK ON YOUR CAR WHEN YOU ARE FRUSTRATED WITH THE WAY THINGS ARE GOING WITH IT.... you will just rush yourself and get sloppy, just close the hood till you have had time to think about what you are doing.Gradeless> Thanks a million.
I am only worried about lifting my car high enough for me to be able to comfortable be able to put the pan on after the gasket and rtv smothly and doing all the screws.
I'll make a deal with my mechanic, i'll use his lift on the weekend and do it my self
(he is there sometimes when a customer asks for a rush and he's alone)
enjoy and be careful working under your car
Thanks
i'll take pics with step by step
good man i should have but i was trying to get it done before a road trip and didnt want to waste time on pics....with my info and your info and pics it should make a pretty idiot proof "HOW-TO"
I can't belive this.
I drove the car once and it was fine. I got back from New York yesterday. took it downtown got stuck in traffic and got back. LUCKLY infront of my friends house he saw the oil started poooouring out. I am guessing its a speedbump i took close to his house cuz it leaked a LOT....
STUPID Toggler plug....
THE PLUG is inside but its LEAKING as if its not there...
now i have to get it towed to the mechanic to get the pan done....damn it.
I drove the car once and it was fine. I got back from New York yesterday. took it downtown got stuck in traffic and got back. LUCKLY infront of my friends house he saw the oil started poooouring out. I am guessing its a speedbump i took close to his house cuz it leaked a LOT....
STUPID Toggler plug....
THE PLUG is inside but its LEAKING as if its not there...
now i have to get it towed to the mechanic to get the pan done....damn it.
^^^^^ that's a bummer man.... i was hoping to read " Replaced my oil pan, everything went great". If the mechanic tries to charge you more than 250.00 do it yourself.....it should only cost 130.00 ish to do it on your own so i am taking parts and labor into acount for that price. but there is no reason he would need more than 120ish profit outta this deal.... i would still recommend doing it yourself but if you are in a bind there isn't much more you can do about it
... Here's what happened to me now.
There are two kinds of oil pans Aluminuim and Steel. Price 250$ for Aluminium and 120$ for Steel. My mechanic told me you need aluminium for the oil to cool down fast. Started calling for an oil pan checking strapyard first etc etc. NONE HAD ONE !! Minium next Monday....
So we figured lets try something... and voila
(if you can't see the picture properly, Its a screw inside a screw and you unscrew the smaller one to remove oil now)
do you think this will hold?
There are two kinds of oil pans Aluminuim and Steel. Price 250$ for Aluminium and 120$ for Steel. My mechanic told me you need aluminium for the oil to cool down fast. Started calling for an oil pan checking strapyard first etc etc. NONE HAD ONE !! Minium next Monday....
So we figured lets try something... and voila
(if you can't see the picture properly, Its a screw inside a screw and you unscrew the smaller one to remove oil now)
do you think this will hold?
no i was more or less talking about engine mods like a turbo or NOS you know where you actually need you oil to be cooler for you car to perform
hmmmm...... i don't have any issues with it.... when did you get you oil filter changed?