I know, damn that extra $20.00 lol
The machine shop is not trying to rip you off, this is somthing that should be done on a rebuild.
boosting a stock ls
- Thread starter Ianbeau15
- Start date
I know, damn that extra $20.00 lol
The machine shop is not trying to rip you off, this is somthing that should be done on a rebuild.
talk about misinformation. a b18 can easily handle more than that. its all in the tune. there is a local guy here thats running 17lbs and has been for a while. its all in the tuneYou get them micropolished to get the bad scratches out left by the old rod bearings.
WOW there is a lot of miss information.
Make sure your motor is healthy.
Then on to your fuel!!!
Get a bigger pump, FPR, and fuel rail, bigger injectors and a nice tune.
Then go to your ignition. Better wires and ect.
Then go with the Skunk2 intake, Bigger TB.
Stay at a safe 10psi at the most and no more!!!
Remember the LS does not like the 8,000 rpm shifts so keep the rev limiter in there or you can start spinning bearings.
Don't open the motor unless you have to. Everything in there is as Honda made it so leave it alone. You blow it up then fine state replacing the internals.
Good luck.
theres a big difference between d series and b series. d series you cant push too far past 200 hp without upgrading things. a stock b series can handle alot more than that. honda tuning just built a b16 that had 500hp with only upgraded pistons. like i said its all the tune.
I know you think you know a ton of s**t, but don't tell us we're giving him misinformation. He wants to know if he can boost a stock ls, and on what circumstances. Fuel pump and injectors are really part of a turbo kit, and would be acquired anyway. We are talking internally, what the stock sleeves, pistons, rods, crank etc can hold. Not trying to start a fight, but maybe read the original post more and not act like your hot s**t.You get them micropolished to get the bad scratches out left by the old rod bearings.
WOW there is a lot of miss information.
Make sure your motor is healthy.
Then on to your fuel!!!
Get a bigger pump, FPR, and fuel rail, bigger injectors and a nice tune.
Then go to your ignition. Better wires and ect.
Then go with the Skunk2 intake, Bigger TB.
Stay at a safe 10psi at the most and no more!!!
Remember the LS does not like the 8,000 rpm shifts so keep the rev limiter in there or you can start spinning bearings.
Don't open the motor unless you have to. Everything in there is as Honda made it so leave it alone. You blow it up then fine state replacing the internals.
Good luck.
X2 Agreed, plus you don't want fuel cut off as your rev limiter.
WTF!!!
Your friend it just lucky...................
10 lbs on a stock LS is more then enough. We are talking reliability here, are we not?
As for the stock b16 on Honda Tuning........so f**king what, it's not going to be driven everyday or at all. They were only showing you that it can take that much..........we will never know for how long.
I know it's all in the Tune.................but a motor that is not built for a turbo can only take so much.
I have boosted
B16A's
B18C/B18A/B's
Now doing a D16Y8
And if you want it to last you don't drive around on 17 lbs of boost.
Fuel pump is not something that comes with the kit, unless you spent the 3,500.00 one a real turbo kit.
I do not thing I am hot s**t at all, I am reading and seeing people telling this guy things that really don't matter.
Come on, the first thing you should get is a Skunk2 manifold.....??? What? Port and polish....... uh?
I am not a know it all......at all, just been around for some time.
Please take no affiance to what I was saying, I mean nothing by it.
Not trying to cause chaos in this thread, but my buddy made 302HP on a stock LS with a GSR head. Only mods internally was a block guard, ARP headstuds, and basic bolts ons, tuned on Neptune. He drove that car like mad, never blew it up.
That was 18lbs.
Block guard, yeah, not a lot of people like them because they cause cooling problems. But personally, I havnt seen, or dealt with those problems. I like them, especially if you dont have the money to get your block sleeved (but then again, if your running only 8 lbs on a stock bottom end, it isnt too critical that you get your block sleeved)
ARP headstuds. Obviously, a lot of people get head lift because of their OEM studs start to stretch. This is bad..lol. I would say its a must to get these, their only 130$ or so, but they will save your motor from seperating lol!
So, you CAN in fact run a lot more than 10 lbs, if you have the tune. But as CBURKE said, this is about reliability, isn't it? If you want your motor to last, I would stay around 8-10 PSI, with ARP's at the very least. None of you are giving out false information, I almost agree with everyone in here. Figured I'd kinda elaborate a little more though..
That was 18lbs.
Block guard, yeah, not a lot of people like them because they cause cooling problems. But personally, I havnt seen, or dealt with those problems. I like them, especially if you dont have the money to get your block sleeved (but then again, if your running only 8 lbs on a stock bottom end, it isnt too critical that you get your block sleeved)
ARP headstuds. Obviously, a lot of people get head lift because of their OEM studs start to stretch. This is bad..lol. I would say its a must to get these, their only 130$ or so, but they will save your motor from seperating lol!
So, you CAN in fact run a lot more than 10 lbs, if you have the tune. But as CBURKE said, this is about reliability, isn't it? If you want your motor to last, I would stay around 8-10 PSI, with ARP's at the very least. None of you are giving out false information, I almost agree with everyone in here. Figured I'd kinda elaborate a little more though..
talk about misinformation....bigger rail and regulator??? we make 500+whp with stock rails and regulators all the time
weve made 650+whp on stock ignition systems and oem wires.
psi doesnt mean anything really. its power and torque that represent the actual stress on the motor.
weve tuned hundreds of stock b series, never had a single one lift a head with oem bolts, even at 400+whp 20+psi of boost on reused head bolts the head didnt lift.
weve made 650+whp on stock ignition systems and oem wires.
psi doesnt mean anything really. its power and torque that represent the actual stress on the motor.
weve tuned hundreds of stock b series, never had a single one lift a head with oem bolts, even at 400+whp 20+psi of boost on reused head bolts the head didnt lift.
the b series weak link are the ring lands. be it a moderate amount over a long period of time(boost even with a good tune) or an extreme amount in a short period of time(bad tuning/detonation) eventually the ringlands will give in to the stress and crack.
the ring lands will give way long before the head lifts, or anything else has any problems.
on a typical LS motor we make roughly 250-275whp. we feel this is a safe limit for a good running motor.
the ring lands will give way long before the head lifts, or anything else has any problems.
on a typical LS motor we make roughly 250-275whp. we feel this is a safe limit for a good running motor.
Never lifted a head because of OEM studs? This is a VERY common problem to many who is pushing a decent amount of pressure, with OEM studs.
Maybe your luck is awesome, but it's happened to me, and happened to many people (Which is why most people buy ARP headstuds, because they dont stretch, or at least not as prone to do so as far as OEM headstuds, with so many miles on them)
You are correct about the ringlands, but this is a problem not only with B series, but also D series. They are very weak, and as you said, they will crack.
But i will have to dissagree about how the ringlands will give before the head lifts. (Maybe it was jus this one, rare time) but an ls we had in our hatch awhille back, we had it boosted on 8lbs only, and it was tuned on neptune. It started smoking, so we checked the compression. Good across all cylinders. We figured we'd replace the headstuds, and slap in some ARP's, and it fixed the problem. So I'm not sure, different motors get different symptoms, who knows
Maybe your luck is awesome, but it's happened to me, and happened to many people (Which is why most people buy ARP headstuds, because they dont stretch, or at least not as prone to do so as far as OEM headstuds, with so many miles on them)
You are correct about the ringlands, but this is a problem not only with B series, but also D series. They are very weak, and as you said, they will crack.
But i will have to dissagree about how the ringlands will give before the head lifts. (Maybe it was jus this one, rare time) but an ls we had in our hatch awhille back, we had it boosted on 8lbs only, and it was tuned on neptune. It started smoking, so we checked the compression. Good across all cylinders. We figured we'd replace the headstuds, and slap in some ARP's, and it fixed the problem. So I'm not sure, different motors get different symptoms, who knows
QzFiNeST107
New Member
haha yea i know richard we've done some business with him adn also we go to the same mechanic