D16Y8 N/A High Comp. Build

Docta2002

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s**t! Just noticed I'm leaking oil by the timing belt side. I didnt see any oil by the block so I'm thinking it's the oil pan or around the oil pump but I'll look into it tomorrow cause now its too dark to do so.

Is it ok for me to bypass all those hoses that flow coolant into the TB and IACV? I just think it's pointless to have those since its circulating HOT coolant to those areas and thus warming them up... and I live where its always hot so....
 

cvcrcr99

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I have the same problem. If you check your oil pan, oil pan gasket, and all that other stuff down there, and the problem still persists, check your cam seal. I couldn't find where my leak was coming from for the longest time. Then, I looked at the seal and it had black grit around it and was sort of wet.

Hope it helps. Nice build BTW. Glad someone else is rocking out with the D series.
 


Docta2002

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Imma rock my D for life... That being said, I'm not gonna let it leak for a long time, even if it means pulling the motor apart, again. The car is so loud I feel scared driving it cause it attracts too much unwanted attention.
 

brick

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Sickkkk. Kinda makes me want to build a D when I get in college. Maybe even some boost. I have always found a built D to be much cooler than a B16 or B18. GL
 


Docta2002

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Any one know if there's a problem in NOT running the coolant hoses to the Throttle Body and Idle Air Control Valve?

If there's no problem, then I can block off the hole coming outta the side of the intake manifold and the hole on the water pipe, correct? Please let me know if you have any suggestions or knowledge on this type of block off.... Thanks...
 

sohclubkid

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Any one know if there's a problem in NOT running the coolant hoses to the Throttle Body and Idle Air Control Valve?

If there's no problem, then I can block off the hole coming outta the side of the intake manifold and the hole on the water pipe, correct? Please let me know if you have any suggestions or knowledge on this type of block off.... Thanks...

i keep mine going to the IACV, but bypass the throttle body one.

BTW... looks great man! lemme know how it runs when you get all the bugs worked out.
 

Docta2002

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Ok, what's the point in running hot coolant to the Idle Air Control Valve? If it's to help warm the car, then I guess I could bypass it cause I live in FL and its always hot over here. So anyone know if there's a problem in bypassing the TB and IACV? And would it be ok to just block off the hole on the water pipe?

And another little question/problem: In the back of the block there's a little black box (I remember when cleaning it, it had oil in there...) that goes into the block and then there's a hose coming outta that little black box...this hose has a little s**t where it connect to the box and it swivels... Where does that little hose go to? Here's a pic


[If oil circulates in there, then that might be the reason I was 'leaking oil' a bit cause when I went under the car to install the flywheel cover (which btw, was one off a Z6 and DOES NOT FIT, for future reference you guys....) I noticed it was not connected.

Well let me know what you guys think of this... Oh, I had bought a battery cause mine was dead, kept it for a day and noticed I was broke so I had to give it back but Imma get one tomorrow so all I've driven was 69miles, lol. oh s**t, this post is #69, hehehehe
 

sohclubkid

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i live in FL too... i keep mine to my IACV because it helps keep your idle smooth IMO...

as for the black box tube... it goes to the PCV valve im pretty sure.

i dont run a flywheel cover.... lol
 

Docta2002

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where's that (the PCV s**t)? Cause I dont remember anything being left unhooked so that means that if that particular hose goes to the PCV and the PCV is plugged, then something is plugged wrong.... Let me know where that is...
 

sohclubkid

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Docta2002

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According to this thread http://www.clubcivic.com/board/showthread.php?t=68638 the PCV hose comes outta that black box and goes thru the IM then goes into the Intake manifold (the big part, i think its called Plenum)...

I'm using a Skunk2 IM, which has two little holes on the 'plenum', one of which is a hose coming from 'a box under the fuel filter' (it says 'purge' on it) then goes into a little box mounted on the fuel rail then it comes outta that box and goes into the plenum.... the other hole on the plenum is blocked off but I dont remember if it was like that when I disassembled the engine... Any help would be great.
 

Docta2002

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Ok, I see #5 (the hose) where it goes into the IM, so what goes in that second opening on the Skunk2 IM?

SOHCLUBkid, thanks btw.
 

sohclubkid

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Ok, I see #5 (the hose) where it goes into the IM, so what goes in that second opening on the Skunk2 IM?

SOHCLUBkid, thanks btw.
im not sure on the SK2 mani.

if you need, make a breather tank for your PCV hose.
 

Docta2002

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And I know I dont have a battery for now but is the fuel pressure supposed to drop to zero.... lets say, in the morning after being off the whole night?

I'm asking cause the few times I turned this engine on, I noticed the fuel pressure would drop once the car was off for a few minutes... I thought (or still think) that the pressure should be constant, even while the vehicle os off..

And another question, does the fuel pressure change from idle to WOT?
And another, to increase fuel pressure, do I screw IN or screw OUT the little s**t at the top of my Blox FPR?
 

cvcrcr99

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And I know I dont have a battery for now but is the fuel pressure supposed to drop to zero.... lets say, in the morning after being off the whole night?
Yes, my fuel psi gauge shows "0" about an hour or two after it has been shut off. When you turn the key to accessory, the CEL comes on and shuts off. I bet you know already, that's the fuel system priming and I believe building up the pressure.

I would assume there are minor pressure changes when you are WOT as supposed to idling. But that's a guess to be honest. I wish I could help you with the FPR question, but I'm rocking out on the stock D series one which cannot be adjusted :(
 

Docta2002

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Ok, did some reading and found out that hot coolant flows thru the TB to prevent any ice from forming...... blablabla, I live is FL so blockOFF! As for the IACV, havent came across anything leading me to leave the hot coolant or take it off, so blockOFF as well.

And I still have no clue as to how a FPR works.. I know it regulates the fuel pressure but how? By the location of where it's mounted, I just dont understand..... And I could really learn if I wanted to but not right now so if you happen to know and would kindly and briefly want to explaint it to me and everyone else, go ahead, I sure would appreciate that.

BTW, I have an oil pressure gauge and I still need to buy the sadwich adaptor for it and a gauge pod... being that most likely the gauge pod will be for 2 gauges (and I dont have any other gauge), what would be a usefull gauge for my app? Coolant temp? Air/Fuel Ratio? I dont need tach, time, volts, or any of those pointless gauges......
 

Angry

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Ok, did some reading and found out that hot coolant flows thru the TB to prevent any ice from forming...... blablabla, I live is FL so blockOFF! As for the IACV, havent came across anything leading me to leave the hot coolant or take it off, so blockOFF as well.

And I still have no clue as to how a FPR works.. I know it regulates the fuel pressure but how? By the location of where it's mounted, I just dont understand..... And I could really learn if I wanted to but not right now so if you happen to know and would kindly and briefly want to explaint it to me and everyone else, go ahead, I sure would appreciate that.

BTW, I have an oil pressure gauge and I still need to buy the sadwich adaptor for it and a gauge pod... being that most likely the gauge pod will be for 2 gauges (and I dont have any other gauge), what would be a usefull gauge for my app? Coolant temp? Air/Fuel Ratio? I dont need tach, time, volts, or any of those pointless gauges......
An FPR works by keeping a certain amount of fuel in the fuel rail based on PSI. Hence why it has a vacuum line hooked to it, as you go toward WOT, the vacuum increases and thus the pressure in the fuel rail. It regulates this by returning the fuel via the return line hooked into the bottom of the FPR.

When you adjust the FPR, your adjusting the base/idle pressure.

At least thats the best way I can explain. And as for another gauge, Id grab a A/F...a good one with a wideband O2 such as and AEM or innovate. This will come in handy when your car is being tuned or if you decided to tune it yourself.

Heres a link about FPR.
http://www.240sx.org/faq/articles/fuel_pressure_regulator_wo.htm
 


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