1993DX
New Member
You could get another water outlet from the junkyard for a few bucks.
overheating help
- Thread starter madmike91
- Start date
1993DX
New Member
That's good you got it off. Check for cracks while you're at it.
But what do you mean by silicone? Like a RTV sealant? Or there was build up around where the coolant passages meet up with the hg? [There would kind of be a mirror image of the coolant passages on the head side and/or water jacket shape on the underside of the hg if someone tried some bottled hg sealer -usually has a metallic look to it] If that's the case then someone may have clogged everything up by trying a hg fix-in-a-bottle crap..
1993DX
New Member
Well if anyone knows otherwise feel free to correct me, but I don't think RTV is needed when installing the hg. It may depend on the gasket brand / type, but usually it isn't need aside possibly from a few key areas.
Perhaps an improperly installed hg was the cause of your issues, even though the hg seemed like it was in an acceptable condition..
For example, the RTV may have compromised the seal due to inadequate cure time. When the hg was installed, if the sealant didn't cure properly it may have allowed a small enough leak to allow air into your cooling system (hence why bleeding only temporarily corrected the problem). The leak may have been small enough to where you didn't notice any smoking or external leaking though. Or maybe the sealant skewed the torque levels when the head was being bolted back down. I guess there are numerous hypothetical's...
But then you wonder what roll the animal damage played.. Maybe that was non-integral damage that was an annoyance but not the cause of the overheating.
Then again the hg may have been sealed perfectly fine, and the cause is elsewhere. Which would ultimately mean that pulling the head was a waste of time if the overheating persists... But it never hurts to put a new hg in lol.
I guess we'll see when it's all bolted back together.
Perhaps an improperly installed hg was the cause of your issues, even though the hg seemed like it was in an acceptable condition..
For example, the RTV may have compromised the seal due to inadequate cure time. When the hg was installed, if the sealant didn't cure properly it may have allowed a small enough leak to allow air into your cooling system (hence why bleeding only temporarily corrected the problem). The leak may have been small enough to where you didn't notice any smoking or external leaking though. Or maybe the sealant skewed the torque levels when the head was being bolted back down. I guess there are numerous hypothetical's...
But then you wonder what roll the animal damage played.. Maybe that was non-integral damage that was an annoyance but not the cause of the overheating.
Then again the hg may have been sealed perfectly fine, and the cause is elsewhere. Which would ultimately mean that pulling the head was a waste of time if the overheating persists... But it never hurts to put a new hg in lol.
I guess we'll see when it's all bolted back together.
hondamanELP
New Member
In my experience with cars over heating especially the 5th gens is this: first always check the fuse in the engine room, I know you did but just saying, then the relay may need tapped with the butt end of a screw driver. If nothing happens switch it out with another relay and see if the fan comes on. If it DOES then replace the good relay back to is respectable position. If the fan DOES NOT come on at this point. There's a coupler on the thermostat housing behind and below your distributor. Unplug the coupler on the housing. It goes to the engine fan switch. take a pair of needle nosed pliers and gently get either end to touch both pins in the coupler. The fan should come on. If it does not then you need to be absolutely positive it isn't the thermostat before you start blaming the ECU. I've had it be the relay more than 15 times and the switch more then 20 and the fuse more than 50. It's normally the culprit bastard for the over heating cars I work with, but Iv'e only had it be the ECU once... So check everything thoroughly and take your time. Like my signature says man, every 1994 is a project car lol. Mine used to over heat sometimes and it ended up being the relay.
1993DX
New Member
Yeah I've heard that a Y7 would be a pretty good bet. They're a bit thinner so you'd get that small amount of increased compression, they are made out of a better material, and they happen to be easier to remove / clean should the head be pulled again.
I haven't heard much about comparisons of the Z6 hg though. Either way you can't go wrong with oem..
Has anyone ever posted the results / benefits / downsides of using a thinner hg? It will increase compression, but how much really? And what are the real life gains associated?
I'm not knocking it, I'm just curious.
But two other things to consider:
1) Maybe increasing the compression (even if only slightly) might not be the best idea in an engine who's piston rings most likely aren't in the greatest condition? It could just be asking for more headaches down the road... Or it may be perfectly fine and your rings will hold up another 100,000 miles..
2) If you're reusing your head bolts, you're asking them to re-torque to factory specs (maybe even 5 ft/pounds more as some would suggest when reusing them), and now tighten even further into the block (since a thinner hg is, well.. thinner), and hold a little more compression...
Again this could mean nothing and everything could turn out perfectly fine, this is all just food for thought. But I haven't steered you wrong yet and I don't intend to do so now, I just want to see you get your car back on the road. You did after all say this was your primary source of transportation.. I wouldn't feel right if I didn't mention the possible benefits and/or downfalls.
I haven't heard much about comparisons of the Z6 hg though. Either way you can't go wrong with oem..
Has anyone ever posted the results / benefits / downsides of using a thinner hg? It will increase compression, but how much really? And what are the real life gains associated?
I'm not knocking it, I'm just curious.
But two other things to consider:
1) Maybe increasing the compression (even if only slightly) might not be the best idea in an engine who's piston rings most likely aren't in the greatest condition? It could just be asking for more headaches down the road... Or it may be perfectly fine and your rings will hold up another 100,000 miles..
2) If you're reusing your head bolts, you're asking them to re-torque to factory specs (maybe even 5 ft/pounds more as some would suggest when reusing them), and now tighten even further into the block (since a thinner hg is, well.. thinner), and hold a little more compression...
Again this could mean nothing and everything could turn out perfectly fine, this is all just food for thought. But I haven't steered you wrong yet and I don't intend to do so now, I just want to see you get your car back on the road. You did after all say this was your primary source of transportation.. I wouldn't feel right if I didn't mention the possible benefits and/or downfalls.
1993DX
New Member
The manual says to torque them in a 2 step fashion.
Initially to 22 ft/lbs, then to a final 47 ft/lbs (D15Z7, D15Z6, D15B7 engines) or 53 ft/lbs (D1Z6 and D15Z1 engines).
For the initial tightening and the final tightening follow a criss-cross pattern starting from the inner most bolts, and working outwards.
Some say to add another 5 to 10 ft/lbs to the final tightening if you're reusing the head bolts (to overcome some stretch in the bolts). Just be careful if you do this, they can snap on you.
Regardless, make sure the bolt threads and the threads in the block are as clean as possible, and give the bolts a light coat of oil before installing them. If you don't, this can either make the bolts more prone to breakage, or give you inaccurate torque readings.
Also check to see if your new hg has a recommended re-torquing schedule. Most don't require it anymore, but some do. If so then be sure to re-torque the bolts to proper amount when the time comes.
Initially to 22 ft/lbs, then to a final 47 ft/lbs (D15Z7, D15Z6, D15B7 engines) or 53 ft/lbs (D1Z6 and D15Z1 engines).
For the initial tightening and the final tightening follow a criss-cross pattern starting from the inner most bolts, and working outwards.
Some say to add another 5 to 10 ft/lbs to the final tightening if you're reusing the head bolts (to overcome some stretch in the bolts). Just be careful if you do this, they can snap on you.
Regardless, make sure the bolt threads and the threads in the block are as clean as possible, and give the bolts a light coat of oil before installing them. If you don't, this can either make the bolts more prone to breakage, or give you inaccurate torque readings.
Also check to see if your new hg has a recommended re-torquing schedule. Most don't require it anymore, but some do. If so then be sure to re-torque the bolts to proper amount when the time comes.
is your antifreeze/water mix 50/50? too much water is a big no no. i have hella issues with my civic.. alot like yours. the same thig when i bled it.. worker just fine.. then a hose blows and all this s**t. but good luck man.
GiffyStyle
New Member
Agreed, mine did the same thing. You said your oil still looks the same, which is a very good sign, if its your head gasket its not blown too bad yet. Be sure to fix that asap, i wouldnt drive it anymore untill it is repaired.