That's what I saw.
If any one can find me the 1200 dollar set of progress coilovers for 560... I'll buy them no argument even though I don't like how they adjust ride height. LMA
Entry level coil question. skunk2 vs F&F vs BLOX
- Thread starter EJ8Metal
- Start date
If any one can find me the 1200 dollar set of progress coilovers for 560... I'll buy them no argument even though I don't like how they adjust ride height. LMA
I'll happily pay for a hotter and cheaper prostitute that will be better. Others can stick with overpaying for their prostitutes that "get the job done" lol.
Direct from F&F's website: "We believe you can perform well on the track and look great doing it.". Besides, the OP mentioned his car would see, and I quote, "A LOT" of track and autox along with street driving. If this is the case, it would only make sense for him to purchase a product that has been proven a million times over to be one of the best setups for motorsports racing AND street use. If he does race, and sometime down the road would want to change his setup, he has that option with rebuildable shocks and Ground-Control offering literally thousands of different springs.
Whether F&F was mentioned or not, this would not affect my suggestion. I've stood by it for years. I'm not going to get butt hurt if someone doesn't choose it, it's their car and they can do what they want. They asked for an opinion, I gave my best. Take it as you want.
OP, or anybody else on this forum, go out to the track and autox events, ask people what suspension they are using and ask what they recommend. I wonder what companies they will mention to you and what they wont..........
The Progress CS2 coilovers are the cheapest. You may be looking at their other kit.
$555 shipped for the CS2 from here:
http://www.robearracing.com/pd-progress-cs-ii-series-2-coilovers-civic-integra.cfm
BUT, since you said you wanted pretty stiff springs, this probably isn't the setup you want. Even though it would work just fine for track/autox.
They are worth looking into a little more, but the spring rates honestly kill it for me... They do offer a "Drag" set up with I believe it was 350 front springs and 450 rear. Do you think the springs are the same length and have the same perch and can be switched front and rear?
The rear springs for that setup are 500. I'm pretty sure the diameter of the springs would be the same, the lengths may be different. But, being a coilover, it doesn't really matter. 500f and 350r would be pretty decent. I would suggest getting a rear swaybar if you went with that setup just to get the rear end a little "tighter".
being proved a million times over requires a company's longevity. Again, that doesn't mean a lesser known, or lesser used product is inferior. Like i said, im not boasting any particular company or product in any way, and i understand you simply gave your opinion, but basically saying, this product has been used by a lot people, i've always stood by it so you should consider standing by it too....is just a little closed ended dont you think? The people i know ride on Apex'i, HKS hipermax, and JIC setups, but even through time, a reputable heritage, and the winners podium...i can't say that one is better than the other based off that. Recommending one or the other is hard because simple things like the way I enter a corner versus you or anyone else can differ enough to require a different spring-damper/coilover setup to dial in that hot lap.
im not here to bicker, but just to keep minds open and dont knock things until you try them. Change is good sometimes (<-- sometimes, even im not biased)
I've actually been in contact with Progress Racing to see about switching springs and dampers, We talked a little bit about final set up, wheels and tires, tie bars, a whole bunch of stuff. All I'm waiting on now is a yes or no if I can switch the dampers them selvs, because obviously the valving isn't the same. The stiffer spring rate means the valving in the designated shock will be more firm.
If yes, I can switch the dampers and springs front and rear, Progress is probably going to be the rout I go, because I talked so in depth with the company about the set up. If I can't, skunk2's will be the rout I go. Thanks for all the opinions and I hope I didn't start any grudges between you guys! Haha
If yes, I can switch the dampers and springs front and rear, Progress is probably going to be the rout I go, because I talked so in depth with the company about the set up. If I can't, skunk2's will be the rout I go. Thanks for all the opinions and I hope I didn't start any grudges between you guys! Haha
No, the front and rear shocks are different. Front suspension uses a damper fork to bolt the shocks to the front LCA's. The rear shocks bolt directly to the LCA. No way around the way they are designed.
I know... This isn't my first time under one of these things brotha! Haha. Think of it this way. If you can buy replicable dampers, why could you not put the replicable dampers in a different spot? The dampers do unbolt off the mounts on the Progress ones, so it is said.
No sir. Front stiffer.
I don't think I understand what you're asking...
Dampening is controlled internally and is pre-set, along with the rebound for these particular shocks. The only way you will get dampening and valving adequate enough to handle a 500# spring for the front is to have Progress build the front shocks specifically for the rate. There is no way that you could yourself change the dampening or valving on any of these shocks once you have them. Unless you know how to gut a shock and have the tools and knowledge to rebuild it with different specs.
I've heard from another member on another forum that has contacted Progress mention they said their shocks can handle up to a 500# spring. I don't know for sure if that means their off the shelf shocks can handle that or if they have to be built to order.
Dampening is controlled internally and is pre-set, along with the rebound for these particular shocks. The only way you will get dampening and valving adequate enough to handle a 500# spring for the front is to have Progress build the front shocks specifically for the rate. There is no way that you could yourself change the dampening or valving on any of these shocks once you have them. Unless you know how to gut a shock and have the tools and knowledge to rebuild it with different specs.
I've heard from another member on another forum that has contacted Progress mention they said their shocks can handle up to a 500# spring. I don't know for sure if that means their off the shelf shocks can handle that or if they have to be built to order.
Me either haha! the shock tubes can be taken off their mounts, so you can put the shock tube, or damper that goes with the 500 lb/in spring rate on the front mounting hardware so you can run it on the front.
I think I get what you're saying now lol.
The shock bodies are one solid piece, meaning they are completely welded and sealed together. You cannot just take the actual shock apart from the mounting points that come with the shock. They should be welded together.
If they were simply bolted to the bottom mounting points, I'm sure that would create a significant weak spot and be unsafe. Not to mention I don't see how they would have room as any bolt would protrude into the shock body and take up space.
The shock bodies are one solid piece, meaning they are completely welded and sealed together. You cannot just take the actual shock apart from the mounting points that come with the shock. They should be welded together.
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If they were simply bolted to the bottom mounting points, I'm sure that would create a significant weak spot and be unsafe. Not to mention I don't see how they would have room as any bolt would protrude into the shock body and take up space.
on my progress coils the the damper can be taken out of the body by un screwing it from the top since its threded but i dont think the cs11 have this option onlythe series 1 . and progress does not have off the shelf coils when you order them they are made in house thats why it takes awhile to get them.
On a McPherson strut, you can unscrew the top of the body but by doing so, you open the internals of the shock itself. It's not like you can just take out w/e is inside and replace it, atleast with the Progress coilovers.
I've installed Koni Yellows on the RSX in my sig. The Koni are cartridges and you reuse the stock strut body. To do this, you drill a small hole in the bottom of the stock strut to release pressure and all of the fluid inside comes out. Then you unscrew the top and literally gut the internals and clean it. You then drill a big hole in the bottom of the stock strut and install the Koni cartridges and bolt them into the stock strut body.
This cannot be done with the shock setup on the double wishbone suspensions and most likely can't do it with an aftermarket full bodied coilover for a McPherson suspension.