1. 30 or moreBest way to go? Thinking about pulling together a b18b1 turbo with a gsr tranny. Want to run about 300 to 325hp so (1. how much pounds of boost will I need) and I wanna keep it stock so I really don't want to do any internal work but do I need it? If I'm only running 300hp. If so ( 2.what internals need to be changed)? I'm wanting to run a eBay kit that goes for about 600 ...you guys know. But just give me some advise please.
Greddy turbo kits f**king suck not to mention the fact that they are bankrupt and have zero replacement partsYea its possible...... In your Dreams.... you can't go cheap when doing a tubro motor. If you wanna turbo with a shock motor go for a custom setup custom seteps are cheaper then buy a full reliable turbo, Greedy,full-race, ect. Real talk if you really want to be reliable please build that botton end then you can easly make your goals...
Have you ever had a bad exprience with Greddy Turbos or Parts, Because I damn sure havnt. Just because you have a bad exprience with them doesn't mean they trash..Greddy turbo kits f***ing suck not to mention the fact that they are bankrupt and have zero replacement parts
Indeed I sure have, 18g kit I had on my old GSR, 18g compressor with a T25 turbine housing, 2in cast downpipe, yeah thats the perfect formula for performance. Then the POS diaphram in the wastegate actuator ruptures making my car spike to 24psi on the dyno, lucky my tuner was paying attention and shut down fast enough. So I try to order a new actuator and every single Greddy vendor had s**t on back order for at least 6 months. So yeah, Ill never use Greddy turbo s**t again, their exhausts and such are good I had an old school 2.75in Greddy Power Extreme on the same car sounded amazing, but thats as far as I go with them. Oh and that turbo lasted like 8k miles before it took a s**t, brand new, replaced with a used KO4 that lasted over 24k miles.Have you ever had a bad exprience with Greddy Turbos or Parts, Because I damn sure havnt. Just because you have a bad exprience with them doesn't mean they trash..
Forged sit of pistons, rods, and acl bearing should do it. And people use both trannysI hardly know anything about turbo's but even I know you should build the bottom end to make that kind of power. At the very least, rods, pistons, and arp head / rod bolts.
And why GSR tranny with boost? Everyone I read with a boost B uses an LS transmission.
this.I hardly know anything about turbo's but even I know you should build the bottom end to make that kind of power. At the very least, rods, pistons, and arp head / rod bolts.
And why GSR tranny with boost? Everyone I read with a boost B uses an LS transmission.
this ^^^^ and a set of stage 1 boost cams wouldnt be a bad idea easier, that way you can make some of the power in the head and not just rely on the bottom end. And 300 hp with 12 psi on 3 in exhaust is much different than 300 hp on 12 psi with 2.5in exhaust. You will spool MUCH quicker with slightly smaller exhaust. So you can have 300 hp with 3 in exhaust and have considerable turbo lag or 250 hp on 2.5 in exhaust with less turbo lag and they will FEEL somewhat similar. Also, if you strip your back seats and interior and remove your spare tire (and other weight reduction) you will be making better use of that horse power and 250 will seem like a lot more and its cheaper and easier.For your 300whp mark I would at least do head studs and rod bolts, those always seem to be what lets go first.
Just curious, why do you suggest not building the head? A slightly built head on stock b18a1 block (or b18 block wth a1 flat top pistons) is a very reliable motor. It lives a long time. I'm not saying thats WHAT has to be done or that your wrong, but thats my preference and I'm just curious why you advise against it other than saving money?He is going to end up making MORE power on the same boost with cams. I would get the basic turbo setup on there and go from there, he may make his goal without the cams and can spend the money elsewhere.