B18b1 turbo

[bwahhj128]

Best way to go? Thinking about pulling together a b18b1 turbo with a gsr tranny. Want to run about 300 to 325hp so how much pounds of boost will I need and I wanna keep it stock so I really don't want to do any internal work but do I need it? If I'm only running 300hp. If so what internals need to be changed? I'm wanting to run a eBay kit that goes for about 600 ...you guys know. But just give me some advise please.

 

[NCxNEMESISx760]

Ahh build the bottom end

 

[Blood_Shot]

rods and pistons, 300whp is the fence right there especially with that jank ebay kit. The seond that crappy wastegate sticks and jumps 10psi youll be picking up your bottom end off the road

 

[SleepingSol]

Best way to go? Thinking about pulling together a b18b1 turbo with a gsr tranny. Want to run about 300 to 325hp so (1. how much pounds of boost will I need) and I wanna keep it stock so I really don't want to do any internal work but do I need it? If I'm only running 300hp. If so ( 2.what internals need to be changed)? I'm wanting to run a eBay kit that goes for about 600 ...you guys know. But just give me some advise please.

1. 30 or more
2. None just blow it up and start all over with a decent build and a turbo kit thats worth more than my ass hair

 

[Blood_Shot]

You can get over 600 for ass hair? s**t new laptop and Texas de Brazil here I come

 

[CodeName_EJ6]

Yea its possible...... In your Dreams.... you can't go cheap when doing a tubro motor. If you wanna turbo with a shock motor go for a custom setup custom seteps are cheaper then buy a full reliable turbo, Greedy,full-race, ect. Real talk if you really want to be reliable please build that botton end then you can easly make your goals...

 

[Blood_Shot]

Yea its possible...... In your Dreams.... you can't go cheap when doing a tubro motor. If you wanna turbo with a shock motor go for a custom setup custom seteps are cheaper then buy a full reliable turbo, Greedy,full-race, ect. Real talk if you really want to be reliable please build that botton end then you can easly make your goals...

Greddy turbo kits f**king suck not to mention the fact that they are bankrupt and have zero replacement parts

 

[CodeName_EJ6]

Greddy turbo kits f***ing suck not to mention the fact that they are bankrupt and have zero replacement parts

Have you ever had a bad exprience with Greddy Turbos or Parts, Because I damn sure havnt. Just because you have a bad exprience with them doesn't mean they trash..

 

[terminalE3lance]

man im trying to do a similar build right now. build it. atleast build the bottom end. im going as big as i can afford. check out my build thread, project cornfed, if you want.

 

[Blood_Shot]

Have you ever had a bad exprience with Greddy Turbos or Parts, Because I damn sure havnt. Just because you have a bad exprience with them doesn't mean they trash..

Indeed I sure have, 18g kit I had on my old GSR, 18g compressor with a T25 turbine housing, 2in cast downpipe, yeah thats the perfect formula for performance. Then the POS diaphram in the wastegate actuator ruptures making my car spike to 24psi on the dyno, lucky my tuner was paying attention and shut down fast enough. So I try to order a new actuator and every single Greddy vendor had s**t on back order for at least 6 months. So yeah, Ill never use Greddy turbo s**t again, their exhausts and such are good I had an old school 2.75in Greddy Power Extreme on the same car sounded amazing, but thats as far as I go with them. Oh and that turbo lasted like 8k miles before it took a s**t, brand new, replaced with a used KO4 that lasted over 24k miles.

 

[JohnS.]

I hardly know anything about turbo's but even I know you should build the bottom end to make that kind of power. At the very least, rods, pistons, and arp head / rod bolts.

And why GSR tranny with boost? Everyone I read with a boost B uses an LS transmission.

 

[CodeName_EJ6]

I hardly know anything about turbo's but even I know you should build the bottom end to make that kind of power. At the very least, rods, pistons, and arp head / rod bolts.

And why GSR tranny with boost? Everyone I read with a boost B uses an LS transmission.

Forged sit of pistons, rods, and acl bearing should do it. And people use both trannys

 

[Blood_Shot]

OEM bearings will do there is nothing wrong with then IMO

 

[XpL0d3r]

I hardly know anything about turbo's but even I know you should build the bottom end to make that kind of power. At the very least, rods, pistons, and arp head / rod bolts.

And why GSR tranny with boost? Everyone I read with a boost B uses an LS transmission.

this.

OP, you'll be able to get somewhere around 250whp on stock internals, with a good tune. And not an eGay turbo kit either, lol.

http://www.hondacivicforum.com/forum/nitrous-super-chargers-turbos-13/why-you-dont-buy-ssautochrome-8368/

^ read.

 

[nathan_carmona]

and run a1 pistons or just go with a b18a1. the a1 flat top pistons are better suited for boost. With arp rod bolts and a OEM stock rebuild, you can get 250-300 with 550cc injectors on 12 psi if tuned well. My friend is running 8 psi on stock internals and a crappy tune and is getting about 230ish

Either way, for stock internals, a b18a1 block is the way to go and an a1 head is only slightly less flowing than a b1. Most of that restriction is in the intake manifold

 

[Blood_Shot]

Perfect example

my old B18a1 LS from my red DA had 190xxx miles when we swapped it into my buddies 97 ex coupe. With a garbage mail-in tune, a DSM 14b on 8psi and highly basic setup runs 14 flat on street tires @ 103 full weight ex coupe with 160lb driver. Remember this is ONLY 8psi with a TINY 14b. This was early last summer and its been through one turbo, a cracked manifold (SS autochrome) and several trips to Florida and at least two cruise in's a week. Of course not every engine is the same but that one is over the 200k mark by now and to this very day runs and drives great.

For your 300whp mark I would at least do head studs and rod bolts, those always seem to be what lets go first.

 

[nathan_carmona]

For your 300whp mark I would at least do head studs and rod bolts, those always seem to be what lets go first.

this ^^^^ and a set of stage 1 boost cams wouldnt be a bad idea easier, that way you can make some of the power in the head and not just rely on the bottom end. And 300 hp with 12 psi on 3 in exhaust is much different than 300 hp on 12 psi with 2.5in exhaust. You will spool MUCH quicker with slightly smaller exhaust. So you can have 300 hp with 3 in exhaust and have considerable turbo lag or 250 hp on 2.5 in exhaust with less turbo lag and they will FEEL somewhat similar. Also, if you strip your back seats and interior and remove your spare tire (and other weight reduction) you will be making better use of that horse power and 250 will seem like a lot more and its cheaper and easier.

Boost by gear is also the way to go.

 

[Blood_Shot]

He is going to end up making MORE power on the same boost with cams. I would get the basic turbo setup on there and go from there, he may make his goal without the cams and can spend the money elsewhere.

 

[nathan_carmona]

He is going to end up making MORE power on the same boost with cams. I would get the basic turbo setup on there and go from there, he may make his goal without the cams and can spend the money elsewhere.

Just curious, why do you suggest not building the head? A slightly built head on stock b18a1 block (or b18 block wth a1 flat top pistons) is a very reliable motor. It lives a long time. I'm not saying thats WHAT has to be done or that your wrong, but thats my preference and I'm just curious why you advise against it other than saving money?

and if he's doing a budget build, I doubt he wants to invest 1200 into a build, get a 400 dollar tune, add cams and bolt ons, retune for another 300-400 and so on and so forth (hopefully his tuner will charge less than 400 like all the tuners around me do)

 

[Blood_Shot]

If any tuner charges him the same amount for a re-tune with cams from the original tune then they are a shitty tuner.

my thing is if you can make your goal without changing as many things as possible why add things that may screw up. Stage one cams or something like crower 402t are not very aggressive but do add more stress to the valvetrain down the road, not to mention the slight effect they have on MPG, again not much but still something to think about if he drives it every day