Car cuts off when coming to a stop/ low idle.
- Thread starter young_
- Start date
RonJ
Banned
Haha...Pull the CEL codes and write them down. Then drive the car until the CEL turns on and then pull the codes again. Post codes that repeat.
Test the battery and alternator.
Unplug the primary O2 sensor to see whether the engine runs better.
Have you tried adjusting the idle speed as per the service manual?
Test the battery and alternator.
Unplug the primary O2 sensor to see whether the engine runs better.
Have you tried adjusting the idle speed as per the service manual?
I say replace the iacv. Despite cleaning mine when i had very similar problems the problem persisted. Changed it and it got tons better. I still had problems but my motor is built soooo.
Cleared the code (there's just one being thrown) P0141 downstream o2 sensor, circuit heater malfunction, yadayada.. (tired of seeing this code.)
Light came back on, same code returned. P0141.
Got the battery tested at a local parts store (autozone). Battery came back "bad" and they said it needed to be replaced. They also said that they cannot test the alternator unless the battery is good.
But I'm wondering, what if the battery is fine and it's the alternator? I don't like the idea of buying a battery just to see if my alternator is bad. I would rather just fix the issue.
I have yet to unplug the primary o2 sensor, but as I said, the motor runs fine on short drives, just not long drives. Will it be okay to unplug the primary o2 sensor for an entire hour drive?
Though I noticed something today that apparently points to a bad battery. I don't know if I mentioned it before or not but what it is, is that when the car is stopped at idle, and warmed up, if I use anything electronic (sunroof, window, etc.) the rpm's drop excessively low. The engine "bobs" per se, and it causes my shift knob to shake and all types of other strange noises and vibrations from the excessively low idle. Does it sound like I should start with the battery?
Thanks!
RonJ
Banned
When you turn the key from off to ON(II) (engine not running), does the charging system warning light (battery symbol) in the cluster turn on and stay on?
Do you have a multimeter to do battery and alternator tests?
For the O2 sensor test, drive the car until the problem begins. Then pull over, unplug the primary O2 sensor, and drive the car to see whether the problem stops or continues.
Do you have a multimeter to do battery and alternator tests?
For the O2 sensor test, drive the car until the problem begins. Then pull over, unplug the primary O2 sensor, and drive the car to see whether the problem stops or continues.
I do not have a multimeter but I will be going to a buddy's house tomorrow and he has one so we will check the battery. According to autozone's tester my battery was at 12.55 volts with the car off.
With the car running, testing the battery, should the voltage be around 13-14?
Also, my friend wants to take off a battery terminal while the car is running to see if it runs off of the alternator? I've heard mixed reviews about this. Could this potentially harm any of my electrical components? If so, how? So I can explain to him. lol
I also read online that if your radio whines when you rev the engine that that's a sign of a bad alternator. Mine does this, but only when I have something plugged up through the auxiliary input. Just thought it might be worth mentioning.
RonJ
Banned
First check the charging system light.
You can buy an adequate digital multimeter for $4 from Harbor Freight Tools. You need a multimeter if you want to do your own car work.
Voltage tests of the alternator are done with the engine warmed up under no electrical load versus electrical load (headlights and A/C with blower on MAX). Post the voltage readings across the battery posts under these two conditions.
You can buy an adequate digital multimeter for $4 from Harbor Freight Tools. You need a multimeter if you want to do your own car work.
Voltage tests of the alternator are done with the engine warmed up under no electrical load versus electrical load (headlights and A/C with blower on MAX). Post the voltage readings across the battery posts under these two conditions.
Thank you, will do. I'm about to go to work, so I will get on there and post about the charging system light.
Edit: Just checked it. It comes on with all the other lights (oil, check engine light (which stays on unfortunately), etc.) and stays on. Once the car is cranked it goes away.
RonJ
Banned
Never do this^ test. It's risky. The battery acts as a buffer to dampen voltage spikes from the alternator. When the battery is disconnected and the engine is running, the voltage spikes may damage sensitive electrical components, such as the ECU.
There are also other possible causes.
Just wanted to drop in and say I haven't forgotten about this and I will get to these tests as soon as possible. An unexpected hospital stay got in the way. Not taking your help for granted Ron!
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RonJ
Banned
Hey dude. Don't worry about me. Are you okay?
Well, I can only imagine having so many people ignore your advice can get a little frustrating at times. Lol
But yeah I'm okay. Just recovering. It's a long story but I posted about it in the "what are you doing today" thread if you're interested.
Yeah. It sucked.
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RonJ
Banned
Please don't worry about me. I'm not naive. If my tech advice gets through to 20% of the members I respond to, then I feel successful.
I'll have to check it out. I hope you're feeling better soon.