I dont want to sink. My spring rates are too soft at the moment. I plan to upgrade later. I want the car rigid and level as possible when cornering with a fast turn in from oversteer.But you want sink to prevent wheel hop
Am i missing something here?
CHILD'S *EK* ... finally i have an EK
- Thread starter CHILD
- Start date
So no camber?
Zero camber would hurt cornering. You don't need zero camber to corner flat. Ever see a touring car turn? That's what I'd like
Actually I personally wouldn't use my sway bars to tune in the understeer, I Would use my toe angle and set it for 1/16 total toe in with a neutral sway bar set up. You can still box your suspension bracing up top and running a nuetral sway bar set up wont directly effect the lower suspension as much as you think. Grip starts at the tires, so your suspension reacts/affects the car from the bottom up not the other way around. Also take into consideration that your running wider/lower offset wheels than factory, and this affects your scrub angle/ bump steer sensitivity, at speed I would want no understeer and having the turn in intiated with the toe angle, so at the enertia transfer to the outside tires the car sticks like gum to your shoe( like mine :p).Just my 2 cents
Front toe : 1/16 total in
Rear toe : 0
Front camber : -1.5
Rear camber -1
Yes I see where you would deffinately be comfortable swapping in stiff springs for he rear, especially with your taste in aero going fast you should feel quite planted.
Man I'm so excited a out getting a bucket seat!! Thank you for letting me know about those!!
Are yall reading what I say, im not going for an understeering setup. OVERSTEER. I wouldn't use my toe angle to dial it in on a non track dedicated car. Id use every other resource to keep it daily driveable with great longevity in the parts invested, including tires. Yes I know suspension reacts from the ground up and you saying that my upper mods won't affect my lower suspension "as much as I think" shows that you know it does in fact affect it andi take that affect, regardless of how big or small, into consideration. I'm not new to this, I'm new to telling clubcivic about it, so it's not helping and most of these responses show that my overall goal is not understood here. Your hatch setup is really basic and non beneficial to me in any way. I have more than one goal that I'm trying to accomplish with this overall setup.Actually I personally wouldn't use my sway bars to tune in the understeer, I Would use my toe angle and set it for 1/16 total toe in with a neutral sway bar set up. You can still box your suspension bracing up top and running a nuetral sway bar set up wont directly effect the lower suspension as much as you think. Grip starts at the tires, so your suspension reacts/affects the car from the bottom up not the other way around. Also take into consideration that your running wider/lower offset wheels than factory, and this affects your scrub angle/ bump steer sensitivity, at speed I would want no understeer and having the turn in intiated with the toe angle, so at the enertia transfer to the outside tires the car sticks like gum to your shoe( like mine :p).Just my 2 cents
Front toe : 1/16 total in
Rear toe : 0
Front camber : -1.5
Rear camber -1
Yes I see where you would deffinately be comfortable swapping in stiff springs for he rear, especially with your taste in aero going fast you should feel quite planted.
Man I'm so excited a out getting a bucket seat!! Thank you for letting me know about those!!
I just dont understand y u are setting this car up to be tracked and not tracking it.
I understand what you are trying to accomplish, and for a daily it doesnt seem like you need to go this in depth.
I understand what you are trying to accomplish, and for a daily it doesnt seem like you need to go this in depth.
X2^
The set up I described was a track set up but with the front toe in instead of out for a daily driver so the steering doesn't need to be corrected as much for a straight line like highway cruising.
I figured that if he wants to do the extra mile he could tune his track set up to accommodate daily driving. I know my set up is a basic set up, but I know every square inch of it and the math involved to get the best potential out of it.
The set up I described was a track set up but with the front toe in instead of out for a daily driver so the steering doesn't need to be corrected as much for a straight line like highway cruising.
I figured that if he wants to do the extra mile he could tune his track set up to accommodate daily driving. I know my set up is a basic set up, but I know every square inch of it and the math involved to get the best potential out of it.
sink would take weight off the front wheels causing hop sillyBut you want sink to prevent wheel hop
Am i missing something here?
have you ever thought about traction bars?
oops tapatalk didn't shower another page fml
I think he's going more for the "exotic car feel" while he daily drives it.
Power to be on point and available, able to corner on FLAT ground, and ride like its on rails! He's stated before that the "local" tracks are some hours away...he doesn't wanna drive around cones...
Power to be on point and available, able to corner on FLAT ground, and ride like its on rails! He's stated before that the "local" tracks are some hours away...he doesn't wanna drive around cones...
Im not planning to keep it asa daily driver for one, and several times I mentioned that I want to be overboard and piss plenty of people off with a track inspired build that is used off of a track more than on one. I just want to be "that guy" lol. This is a toy and I treat it that way. When I do bring it to a track i want it to be really aggressive. Around town, I want it to be an obvious track car and overboard sort of like a 911 GT3 RS.... it's not really daily friendly but it doesn't shred its tires from just cruising in a straight line either.
I get your idea but the ease of steering in a straight line isn't worth my tires imo.
You know the ins and outs of your car and your setup, I'm going for a whole different approach.
I will be using a k swap traction bar
EX Coupe 98
Registered User of What?
Is this the K swap traction bar you are thinking about 
.
http://www.jhpusa.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=7052
.http://www.jhpusa.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=7052
Either Ktuned or Full Race's.Is this the K swap traction bar you are thinking about
http://www.jhpusa.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=7052
Ordered a bunch of misc things so that I can close up the trans and some other oem replacement bits.
Idle air assist delete/dash temp sensor fitting (don''t want to run an extra wire up to my radiator
oem flywheel cover
3 flywheel cover bolts
6 new clutch bolts
8 flywheel bolts
brand new clutch slave cylinder
remaining parts list before start up:
- ECU W/HONDATA K RPO
- APEXI' WS2 EXHAUST
- HYBRID-RACING CONVERSION HARNESS
- HYBRID-RACING RACE SHIFTER CABLES
- WIREWORX ENGINE HARNESS
- HYBRID-RACING A/C P/S DELETE
- K20 HALF SHAFT
- EG/DC FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARMS
- DC5 OXYGEN SENSOR
- K-TUNED HEATER HOSES (still debating keeping heat)
- MODIFIED CHARGING HARNESS
- EG/DC SUBFRAME AND STEERING RACK AND U-JOINT
so close, yet so far