My EJ8; my slow build.

Puma

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I'm not saying K's are worthless or anything. I think they're great. B series are just what I know and love.
Good girl. :lol:

I *think* Rob has some left over turbo parts from his old build. Want me to check with him, and see if you can use anything down the road?
 

crash!

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Good girl. :lol:

I *think* Rob has some left over turbo parts from his old build. Want me to check with him, and see if you can use anything down the road?
That would be rad!
 


crash!

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So I'm discussing my build with my coworker. I'm trying to figure out what to do with my build.
I don't want a HUGE amount of power. I was something that's fun, and I want power I can actually put on the ground and not just spin tire. Like, I want to be able to spin tire on the freeway if I punch it but not every time I try to accelerate.

Questions I have (for you boostheads):

-Cams. I was thinking of doing cams. Was almost thinking about upgrading the exhaust cam to a CTR? Thoughts?
-Boost control. Was going to just control the boost by the wastegate. But wouldn't mind doing a manual boost controller as a "back-up". Thoughts on this?
-Tuning. I have a P28 chipped with chrome. With the low boost I want to run, should I get Hondata? There are some shops here that I want to tune with that work with one and not the other.
-Compression. I have 10:1. And I want to run probably like 15 lbs. Should I do anything with that?
-Valves? Valve springs? I'm running R springs.
-Flywheel. I'm running a 12 lb flywheel. Wondering if I need to change that?
-Over-boring. I wanted to possibly go .5 over. Thinking about sleeving, but my GSR sleeves probably could handle .5 over. Thoughts?

I'm sure I'll have more questions along the way, but I'm just trying to figure out what I want to do.
 

Just a honda!!

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So I'm discussing my build with my coworker. I'm trying to figure out what to do with my build.
I don't want a HUGE amount of power. I was something that's fun, and I want power I can actually put on the ground and not just spin tire. Like, I want to be able to spin tire on the freeway if I punch it but not every time I try to accelerate.

Questions I have (for you boostheads):

-Cams. I was thinking of doing cams. Was almost thinking about upgrading the exhaust cam to a CTR? Thoughts?
-Boost control. Was going to just control the boost by the wastegate. But wouldn't mind doing a manual boost controller as a "back-up". Thoughts on this?
-Tuning. I have a P28 chipped with chrome. With the low boost I want to run, should I get Hondata? There are some shops here that I want to tune with that work with one and not the other.
-Compression. I have 10:1. And I want to run probably like 15 lbs. Should I do anything with that?
-Valves? Valve springs? I'm running R springs.
-Flywheel. I'm running a 12 lb flywheel. Wondering if I need to change that?
-Over-boring. I wanted to possibly go .5 over. Thinking about sleeving, but my GSR sleeves probably could handle .5 over. Thoughts?

I'm sure I'll have more questions along the way, but I'm just trying to figure out what I want to do.
Hondata if u want boost by gear, chrome will work just fine until your super built, my buddy made 320 whp at 18 pounds with a crappy 50 trim on a stock gsr, if u lower the comp u could see 400 whp, itr and ctr cams are the same unless u find older ctr cams i will also suggest arp rod bolts and headstuds
 


crash!

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Hondata if u want boost by gear, chrome will work just fine until your super built, my buddy made 320 whp at 18 pounds with a crappy 50 trim on a stock gsr, if u lower the comp u could see 400 whp, itr and ctr cams are the same unless u find older ctr cams i will also suggest arp rod bolts and headstuds
I have headstuds already. And I though CTR had higher cam profiles? Or is that only on the intake side?
 

CHILD

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The itr is the one that had two different versions of cams. The ctr didnt change. Why would you want to run a high lift cam with overlap on a boost application? If you change cams, go to a boost cam with very little to no overlap.
You can do plenty with your current compression ratio, wanting to run 15psi is going to be dependant on which turbo you use. You may not even need 1 bar.
 

crash!

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The itr is the one that had two different versions of cams. The ctr didnt change. Why would you want to run a high lift cam with overlap on a boost application? If you change cams, go to a boost cam with very little to no overlap.
You can do plenty with your current compression ratio, wanting to run 15psi is going to be dependant on which turbo you use. You may not even need 1 bar.
The one I have is a t3/t4
 

Just a honda!!

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The itr is the one that had two different versions of cams. The ctr didnt change. Why would you want to run a high lift cam with overlap on a boost application? If you change cams, go to a boost cam with very little to no overlap.
You can do plenty with your current compression ratio, wanting to run 15psi is going to be dependant on which turbo you use. You may not even need 1 bar.
Yeah i knew it was one or the other
 

crash!

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So I've decided. Once I sell the slips I want to get my hands on some Kosei K1s.
 

crash!

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I just don't get why! They're so plain looking.
 

TokyoSkies

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The one I have is a t3/t4
This doesn't tell us enough. .AR trim? internal or external gate?

Don't use psi as a goal, use power as a goal (as you should).
As child said, don't run a CTR/ITR cam. I think Brian Crower makes boost cams. I've never bothered with cams, though. Focus on your bottom end before your top end (TIGHTEN UP DAT BUTT haha).
10:1 isn't bad at all, but will get sketchy with higher boost. If you want to run mad boost, sleeve it, and ensure you rebuild with forged internals.
Valves and valve springs are irrelevant right now. Worry about them as you go.
12lb should be okay. Might be a bit quick in between gearing (I ran a stock flywheel that was micropolished, just because lightened flywheels made it a bit harder for me to keep the car in optimal boost range when shifting at high RPM. You want it to fall back down to the base/mid of your power band so you can build boost, aka boost by gear).
As far as tuning, I would go with Hondata if you want reliability. I had a Chrome tuned ECU. It was kind of sloppy, honestly..
Overboring only comes into play if you want to change compression and run larger pistons, IMHO. You can stick with stock bore and run stock size pistons/rods and be just fine.

All in all, if you want to make like 500whp, you need to rebuild quite a bit from the ground up. Also, invest in ACL bearings if you do.
 

crash!

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regamasters.
:lol: We'll see. I would love too.

This doesn't tell us enough. .AR trim? internal or external gate?

Don't use psi as a goal, use power as a goal (as you should).
As child said, don't run a CTR/ITR cam. I think Brian Crower makes boost cams. I've never bothered with cams, though. Focus on your bottom end before your top end (TIGHTEN UP DAT BUTT haha).
10:1 isn't bad at all, but will get sketchy with higher boost. If you want to run mad boost, sleeve it, and ensure you rebuild with forged internals.
Valves and valve springs are irrelevant right now. Worry about them as you go.
12lb should be okay. Might be a bit quick in between gearing (I ran a stock flywheel that was micropolished, just because lightened flywheels made it a bit harder for me to keep the car in optimal boost range when shifting at high RPM. You want it to fall back down to the base/mid of your power band so you can build boost, aka boost by gear).
As far as tuning, I would go with Hondata if you want reliability. I had a Chrome tuned ECU. It was kind of sloppy, honestly..
Overboring only comes into play if you want to change compression and run larger pistons, IMHO. You can stick with stock bore and run stock size pistons/rods and be just fine.

All in all, if you want to make like 500whp, you need to rebuild quite a bit from the ground up. Also, invest in ACL bearings if you do.
Yeah... I would have to check on the turbo... it's been almost a year since I've really looked at it...
 

buzzbombtom

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they have no style, i dont see them on a car and think to myself wow those rims look good.. not once. ugly, over played, no style,
 


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