The one I have is a t3/t4
This doesn't tell us enough. .AR trim? internal or external gate?
Don't use psi as a goal, use power as a goal (as you should).
As child said, don't run a CTR/ITR cam. I think Brian Crower makes boost cams. I've never bothered with cams, though. Focus on your bottom end before your top end (TIGHTEN UP DAT BUTT haha).
10:1 isn't bad at all, but will get sketchy with higher boost. If you want to run mad boost, sleeve it, and ensure you rebuild with forged internals.
Valves and valve springs are irrelevant right now. Worry about them as you go.
12lb should be okay. Might be a bit quick in between gearing (I ran a stock flywheel that was micropolished, just because lightened flywheels made it a bit harder for me to keep the car in optimal boost range when shifting at high RPM. You want it to fall back down to the base/mid of your power band so you can build boost, aka boost by gear).
As far as tuning, I would go with Hondata if you want reliability. I had a Chrome tuned ECU. It was kind of sloppy, honestly..
Overboring only comes into play if you want to change compression and run larger pistons, IMHO. You can stick with stock bore and run stock size pistons/rods and be just fine.
All in all, if you want to make like 500whp, you need to rebuild quite a bit from the ground up. Also, invest in ACL bearings if you do.