OneFastGSR's EG Hatch

OneFastGSR

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Finally spent some money on the civic, I was letting it get out of hand and havn't been maintaining it like I should. Put new rotors/pads on it, Also have a new Trunk plate so the hatch will finally shut, Got a liter of ATE super blue brake fluid on the way. Going to fully flush/bleed the brakes and clutch with it. Hopefully it gets here today and I can do that. Here's pics of the brakes. =) After I do the brake/clutch fluid a oil change is next along with a valve adjustment.

New rotors/pads



Old pads off



Here's how bad they were... Oops, Was getting alot of brake fade in the back roads etc. Had to drive like a grandma until I got my new pads.



New rotors on



Pads on...



All done, Just had to put front bumper back on. Took off the bumper because I had alot more room to work under it. Takes 5 seconds to remove front bumper on one of these, Love it. Lol



Thought about ordering a new set of mud flaps for it. But I'm pretty sure the new ones will just scrape off like the old ones, I think it's pointless. Same reason I havn't bought a new front lip.
 

OneFastGSR

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No big updates, Changed the oil last week on 2/13, Knew It was overdue for oil change because the oil pressure changes etc. Oil pressure is back where it should be again and running great. Need to do a valve adjustment on it soon though. Got a bunch of new stuff in for my integra, ARP crank pulley bolt, Cometic bottom end gasket set, Downstar oil/water pump bolts, ACL Race rod bearings, ACL thrust washers, some other stuff, Got the rotating assembly/block in the shop getting fully balanced etc. Havn't decided what to do with this car once my integra is where I want it. Going to order science of speed LMA's, new ferrea valve seals, seat locators, titanium retainers (Currently got brian crower steel retainers), A walbro 450, aeromotive fuel pump relay kit, 1600cc five0motorsports injectors, Than see what happens from there. Hoping for the integra to make 600whp on e85. This isn't a build thread for my integra but that's why this build thread hasn't been moving at all. Civic is just a daily for now! one project at a time =)
 


OneFastGSR

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I did a valve adjustment on the civic today, And my god it made me love this car much more. I always had to downshift on hills, The car idled rough and popped and ticked etc. All kinds of madness, I adjusted all the valves, .007 intake, .009 exhaust. That was like my last idea of what is causing all the issues i've been having.

Whenever I took the valve cover off and started adjusting them. The previous clearances some were rediculously tight or loose. Valves were adjustment was way out of whack. Now the motor is running smooth as butter. It doesn't pop on idle. Valves don't tick anymore on startup etc, It's just running butter smooth and has alot more power. Don't have to downshift to 3/4th gear on hills cant cruise up hills in 5th gear without losing speed.

The bad thing is I found out how bad my wheel bearings are today. I got about 1 inch of play in all directions. Which is crazy because they don't make noises and my car drives fine you can barely feel it. I figured they was beginning to go bad because you can't really feel it but they're very bad. Going to order Koyo wheel bearings for front, TIMKEN wheel bearing hub assemblies for rear, ARP extended wheel studs, and Mishimoto aluminum competition lug nuts. Want to get wheel spacers but I don't want to get a new alignment right now so putting spacers on hold.


 

Dominick

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Lookin good man!
 


OneFastGSR

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thanks! I'm not sure what's done internally to this motor but I don't think it's factory compression! Stock brand new D15b7 compression from a test is 185. Mine had 200/185/195/200 or some s**t last time I did a compression test but I always thought it was slow. That valve adjustment like opened up the motor completely. Some valves were way to tight, Like .004+ tight, Some were stupid loose, The right feeler gauge would go through like throwing a hot dog down a hallway. Now that they're all set right this thing moves!

I raced a GSR with full bolt ons and a tune, He beat me by 2 cars. Raced a RSX type S bone stock with a AEM intake from a 40 roll. I pulled 2 cars ahead at the beginning and they finally passed me at 120 mph. I can goto 3500 rpm in 1st gear and hit it and it'll spin all the way through first and spin alittle in 2nd. I have a boosted integra, drove some other d series cars before. This thing is abnormally a f**king monster! Bone stock header and all. It moves! Whenever I get new wheel bearings and such I want to record a video with my gopro. I don't understand this car. Haha It's fast for no reason now. My brothers D16Y8 ek hatch would pretty much top out at 110 or so. This thing at 120 it's still pulling like no other! Wtf? Haha It's crazy.

I got a hotel booked in houston for tx2k, Civic will be parked at home but when I get back I'm going to change the wheel bearings, Rear disc conversion, extended lugs and some lug nuts on it. Everytime someone asked me why I don't buy a header or anything for this car and I was like it's not worth it, It's just a d series and it's slow as hell. Now that's it running right it makes me want to put a si trans, clutch/flywheel, and bolts on. Feels like it's got a ton of potential now! Lol
 

OneFastGSR

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Just placed all the orders, Everything will be here by the time i'm back from tx2k14 and have some fun to do. Ordered Mishimoto lug nuts (Blue), Koyo front wheel bearings, ARP Extended wheel studs 16 pc, Brand new 99-00 civic SI e-brake cables, Energy suspension rear trailing arm bushings, Powerslot drilled/slotted rotors with powerslot ceramic brake pads for the rear. Now I got to go pull the rear trailing arms of a friends integra parts car. Than install! Than I guess I can hit the curves again, Lol.
 

OneFastGSR

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Anyways, Back from tx2k. Was a crazy week for sure. First night in texas got t-boned in downtown houston by a camry going about 50-60 mph. I was passenger, Friend didn't even see the red light and ran it. Barely dodged a bus and than got t-boned by the camry and it shot us into a brick pillar and metal gate. Whenever we hit the brick pillar I hit my head on something pretty hard gave me a concussion and 2 gashes in my head, Hospital glued it up instead of putting stitches, Pretty sore elsewhere other than that. Hung out at the omni hotel and watched some racing, Back from tx2k now though.

http://abclocal.go.com/ktrk/story?section=news/local&id=9464592

R.I.P friends 98 EK Coupe was bone stock with skunk2 full coilovers and camber kits, Had tons of potentional was a super clean car..




Got my parts for the civic, New Koyo front wheel bearings, Energy suspension trailing arm bushings, ARP Extended wheel studs, Powerslot rear discs, and powerslot evolution pads, Raybesto 99-00 civic SI e brake cables brand new, and Mishimoto blue lug nuts






Going to put the civic on jackstands tomorrow morning and pull the front hubs off, Than go get the new wheel studs and bearings pressed in. Put it all back together. Than go on a hunt for rear trailing arms because my friend got a buyer on his whole parts car
 

OneFastGSR

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Pulled the front spindles off and took them to a friends shop to get the bearings and wheel studs pressed in. Whenever I get those back front will go back together and I can search for some rear disc trailing arms. Than i'll do the rear

 

OneFastGSR

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Wheel bearings and wheel studs are installed, Now i'm looking at what I want to do with the rest of suspension, Upper and lower ball joints seem in pretty decent condition so it's not really ready to be upgraded. Tie rods on the other hand the boot on the inner tie rod is open and grease is coming out pretty good. Going to see about adding alittle grease and replacing or fixing the boot. Might get a set of outer tie rods though because those ball joints seen better days. When I get upper/lower ball joints i'll be getting Hardrace front camber kits, and Buddy Club P1 extended ball joints. Also had thoughts about some wheel spacers, My tires are rubbing on the inside quite a bit. 205/45/16 seem alittle big for the way it's sitting atm. I really want to get 10-20mm wheel spacers, raise the car about half a inch or so, and some camber kits with an aggressive/street alignment. Should be pretty fun and good ride after all that.

Edit: Didn't realize I forgot to add the pics. There's the new wheel studs and spindles. The Koyo ones I bought were for a ABS model with 10.3" Rotors (My mistake), So I went and bought 2 timken wheel bearings at autozone, When out of box one was a NTN bearing, and one was a Koyo bearing. Which didn't bother me at all because both are high quality wheel bearings and expensive, So That's what they are. Going to throw the Koyo's I bought in the closet or something. Already have new bearings on the integra. Guess these will be spares after some track days.


 

OneFastGSR

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Thanks, Appreciate it! Added pictures of spindles since I forgot to. I'm loving the civic I don't think i'll ever sell it! I just want to keep modding it. Probably the most fun car I've ever driven. So fun I've pretty much paused my integra build to spend money on the hatch! Also might I add possible front lower control arms in the future. Most likely J2 engineering ones, Give those a try. All my front LCA bushings are pretty much shot. Every single one is cracked and such
 

endo617

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Thanks, Appreciate it! Added pictures of spindles since I forgot to. I'm loving the civic I don't think i'll ever sell it! I just want to keep modding it. Probably the most fun car I've ever driven. So fun I've pretty much paused my integra build to spend money on the hatch! Also might I add possible front lower control arms in the future. Most likely J2 engineering ones, Give those a try. All my front LCA bushings are pretty much shot. Every single one is cracked and such
DaddyBuilt Racing on clubintegra.com has the J2 Front LCA right now. Check to see the how they hold up on his thread.
 

OneFastGSR

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You live in Little Rock? Some of those pictures look oddly familiar.
I've been through little rock a bit but i'm somewhere in a area near there...

DaddyBuilt Racing on clubintegra.com has the J2 Front LCA right now. Check to see the how they hold up on his thread.
Yeah i've talked to him about alot of stuff in the past, Whenever he ordered the j2's I asked for feedback on them whenever he can try them out and stuff. I havn't really checked with him in awhile though.

I just ordered new moog outer tie rods for both sides, and new Inner tie rod boots. I'm going to clean up and regrease my inner tie rods because they aren't damaged in anyway really. The boot was seperating and I just finished it off so it's open and I'm ordering new ones. The outer tie rods the ball joints aren't in best condition so ordered new ones. Whenever those come in I should be able to put the front together.

Just got my downstar oil pan hardware and rear main seal bolts for integra couple days ago, Waiting on machine shop to finish balancing the rotating assembly. Shop been backed up and they're at my work right now, So shortblock should be assembled soon.
 

mymmeryloss

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Good to hear! Isnt downstar hardware unnecessary for an oil pan? Lol
 

OneFastGSR

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Yeah it was unnecessary, Lol. So far I've replaced everything else so I said f**k it why not, Haha. ARP 625+ rod bolts, ARP main studs, ARP crank pulley bolt, Downstar oil pump and water pump bolts, ARP pressure plate and flywheel bolts, Only thing left stock on block as far as bolts was oil pan and rear main seal bolts, So I just got them anyways, Lol. Bolts are what hold the motor together anyways. Might as well make sure all the bolts are strong. Original goal was 600whp but I'm not even near done and i've already been thinking about going for more just cause the motor can handle it. Lol. Just need more turbo
 

OneFastGSR

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Well I have the brakes, front spindles, ball joints, Everything is on and I still can't figure out what to do with the tie rods. I might have to go buy a torch to finish, My old tie rods the studs on the ball joint where the castle nut goes the threads are messed up, so I can't torque down the old tie rods, The lock nut on the outer tie rods are just stuck, I been spraying PB blaster on it for 3 days now, I still can't break the lock nut loose to swap the tie rods. Think i'll have to go buy a torch and heat the lock nut up real good to break it loose... A guy has a rear disc conversion for $80 I'm suppose to go pick up locally. Once I get those i'll either sand and repaint black or get sandblasted and powder coated black, The trailing arms are pretty rusty. I got new bushings, studs, e-brake cables, rotors/pads, etc. All I really need is the trailing arms but $80 for an entire rear disc swap with 2 sets of calipers can't complain. After I get my tie rods swapped rear disc is the next step.

edit: Just came up with another issue -.- The mishimoto lug nuts I got, Don't fit on my enkei's. My enkei's require smaller lug nuts, More slim. The only slim ones I got are closed end and won't fit the extended lugs, Can't use my meshies with oem lugs because they're closed end. Not suppose to use aftermarket lugs on stock wheels, So not sure if mishimoto ones on meshies is that safe. Idk. I got 3 sets of wheels, 3 sets of lugs, none of them are compatible with the extended studs in anyway. f*** lol. I have physically no way to run the enkeis on extended studs with any lugs I have, Only possibilty I got is a set of meshies with the mishimoto lugs, but with the OEM wheels having ball socket lug nuts and mishimoto's having the 60degree tapered lug nuts idk how safe it would be. I found an "adapter washer" online for like $2 each. Convert 60 degree tapered lug to a ball taper. But never heard of anyone using those so don't know how they would hold up, safe, unsafe?

edit2: Ordered some 60degree taper to ball taper adapters, Cost $27 total after shipping for 20 of them. Going to use those adapters, a set of meshies, and the mishimoto lugs, Enkei's were originally on my integra in the first place so they'll just go back on there. I was wanting to raise the car alittle bit and put wheel spacers so the wheels are flush with the fenders all the way around. 10mm spacer is what i'm thinking I want but i'm not going to order spacers until I get the wheels on and do some measurements. Here's a pic of my old red DC with the enkei's. This is about how I want my EG to sit.

 

OneFastGSR

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Finally got it, My dad had a torch and used it to get the lock nut loose, Took off old inner tie rod boots, regreased everything, installed new ones, Than installed new outer tie rods and everything on the front is torqued down, All it needs now is some wheels and lug nuts on. Once the lug nut "adapter washers" come in i'll put the meshies on the front and drive. Should feel really different and 10x better with the new wheel bearings and outer tie rods. Old wheel bearings I could grab the brake rotor or caliper and just move it any direction with like a inch of play, Now you can grab the rotor with 2 hands and it won't budge a spec. Can't wait to drive it! Based off calculations the outside of the tire on the meshies is 21.7mm further in than the enkeis, So If I got 20mm wheel spacers it would sit the meshies right where the enkeis sit. Which is pretty flush with the fender. So i'm debating whether to order some 20mm spacers or just rock the meshies the way they are and maybe get another set of aftermarket wheels





 


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