Engine knock/tick in morning

[98civex]

I have a 98 civic ex d16y8 and I've just started noticing if the morning is chilly the engine will make a knock/tick noise when it's first started.

It drives fine and doesn't seem to lack acceleration or power. When it's warmed up you can't hear it as much. It's more noticeable if the car is against a wall or between two cars as the sound is bounced back.

Oil level is fine and just had an oil change too. My valves were adjusted at 100k and it now has 175k

Is this anything alarming? I use 87 octane too and give it a tune up every two years.

Also at idle the engine has the tiniest bit of shake, that I tend to notice more than passengers. So wrote it off as normal.

 

[HeX]

If its just when the engine is cold, Im more inclined to believe its something oil related especially if it goes away once the engine's warm. What viscosity oil are you using and is your oil level in between? The two dots of the dip stick or closer to the top dot?

Also, what brand of gas do you use? Cheapest available or one particular brand?

In regards to the idle shakes, have you ever had performed a full fuel system cleaning or used concentrated additives? When was the last time you changed the fuel filter? Do you use OEM or NGK spark plug wires & NGK plugs? Are the plugs gapped at .44? If its been a while since the pkugs were installed, have you inspected them for potential regapping?

 

[98civex]

In regards to the idle shakes, have you ever had performed a full fuel system cleaning or used concentrated additives? When was the last time you changed the fuel filter? Do you use OEM or NGK spark plug wires & NGK plugs? Are the plugs gapped at .44?

Never performed a full fuel system cleaning. I've periodically used Lucas fuel system cleaner.

Never changed fuel filter. Read threads of people saying it wasn't necessary to do so in these civics? So never gave it much thought.

I do use ngk wires and plugs with I believe duralast cap and rotor kit from autozone that I swap out every two years. Even after a full ignition tune up I've noticed the slight engine shake. And yes the gaps are .44

 

[HeX]

Never performed a full fuel system cleaning. I've periodically used Lucas fuel system cleaner.

Which one of the many? The gas tank additive? I can suggest a few methods to consider.

Never changed fuel filter. Read threads of people saying it wasn't necessary to do so in these civics? So never gave it much thought.

You definitely need to change the fuel filter. A clogged fuel filter impedes fuel delivery. If youre on an old one, its almost a guarantee that the shakes will disappear once you change it. Whomever told you not to change it should not be listened to again. Change it every 15k-20K miles to ensure youre not running clogged. Its a $20 part, so its worth changing regularly.

I do use ngk wires and plugs with I believe duralast cap and rotor kit from autozone that I swap out every two years. Even after a full ignition tune up I've noticed the slight engine shake. And yes the gaps are .44

Im not a fan of Duralast parts but if you're changing them every two years then you should be fine. Get to that fuel filter, buddy!

 

[98civex]

Ok. Should I get an oem one or doesn't matter for those?

Also any idea about the noise in the morning?

 

[HeX]

Ok. Should I get an oem one or doesn't matter for those?

It wont matter much, but again being an inexpensive part, I feel its worth an extra few bucks. Look into Wix. You can find some great fuel filter deals on eBay.

Also any idea about the noise in the morning?

Its possible the noise might be caused by the initial restricted fuel flow due to the old fuel filter. Once everythings warmed up it may improve a little. This is all just loose theory as theres no way for me to know the exact noise youre experiencing.

 

[98civex]

I think I went to replace it once but the bolts looked rusted and it deterred me

 

[HeX]

Oh, those bolts will be a pain in the ( Y ) to break loose considering its lonnnng overdue. Prepare to use alot of leverage and long tools.

By the way...

What viscosity oil are you using?
What brand of gas do you use? Cheapest available or one particular brand?

Im confident the old fuel filter is the main culprit, but the answers to these questions may shed further light on your issues.

 

[98civex]

I believe the place I get an oil change at uses 10w-30

I mostly use Sunoco gas

I worry that the lines will break and I'll have a bigger issue on my hands

 

[young_]

I worry that the lines will break and I'll have a bigger issue on my hands

I've replaced countless fuel filters on my own vehicles as well as friends. Absolutely never had an issue like that. It's very simple and straightforward.

 

[98civex]

Here's how it looks

 

[HeX]

I too have battled some tough seized fuel filter bolts. Spray the bolts with PB blaster or Seafoam Deep Creep lube and let it soak a bit. The way the lines are designed, you wont break them so dont worry about it. At worse, you'll break the old fuel filter, which wont matter. Use long wrenches for maximum leverage. I suggest loosening the fuel filter lines while the filter is still mounted on the firewall. It allows for more helpful leverage.

 

[98civex]

I'll attempt it thanks.

In terms of brand, on eBay there are cheap ones going for $10 then oem for $28 and that Wix brand I saw around $25 shipped.
What do you suggest?

Also what's a good way to relieve fuel pressure first?

I think I have ptsd towards replacing fuel filters lol because in my first car it was replaced as part of maintenance and then kept randomly stalling until it was replaced again.

 

[HeX]

I believe the place I get an oil change at uses 10w-30

I mostly use Sunoco gas

Sunoco gas is pretty good so thats ok. Also consider Chevron, Texaco, or BP in that order if either is convenient for you.

If you go to a lube place, dont assume they use the proper viscosity. Alot of them will just put in what the think you need and not even consider whats suggested on the oil cap. Tell them to use the best recommended viscosity you figure. I say that because older engines benefit from thicker standard oils unless you use synthetic.

Being that you seem to stay on top of your maintenance, make sure to use high-mileage oil as well. If you dont know why, research it so you understand the real benefit of it.

 

[98civex]

Cool. I honestly never considered the type of oil that goes in since I make sure to replace on time sometimes even a little sooner. I'll look into high mileage oil

 

[HeX]

In terms of brand, on eBay there are cheap ones going for $10 then oem for $28 and that Wix brand I saw around $25 shipped.
What do you suggest?

I personally would not buy a cheap no-name brand part for my engine. You have a better chance at squeezing much more mileage out of a quality filter. So its really up to your preference.

Also what's a good way to relieve fuel pressure first?

I think I have ptsd towards replacing fuel filters lol because in my first car it was replaced as part of maintenance and then kept randomly stalling until it was replaced again.

Ha! Just break loose the top bolt. Thats all the pressure release youll need. The bottom bolt is the bigger pain.

 

[98civex]

Nice. I just read up on high mileage oils.

For a car with higher mileage do you continue using 5w-30?

And what about synthetic blends as oppose to conventional. Seems like it's all a synthetic blend these days

 

[HeX]

Cool. I honestly never considered the type of oil that goes in since I make sure to replace on time sometimes even a little sooner. I'll look into high mileage oil

Higher mileage oil has an extra ingredient (I think a zinc formulation) that newer oild no longer have but out engines were designed with in mind.

Make sure you're changing the oil according to either factory recommendation or that of quality oil & filter used. The old 3k suggestion is a gross misunderstanding.

Nice. I just read up on high mileage oils.

For a car with higher mileage do you continue using 5w-30?

And what about synthetic blends as oppose to conventional. Seems like it's all a synthetic blend these days

When using standard oil, 10w30 or 10w40 should be fine. Synthetic allows for factory recommended weight (5w30) since it doesnt thin out like standard oil when heated alot. Ive never looked into which weight to use with blends because Ive only used synthetic for the last 12 years and counting.

You may want to read through this thread...
http://www.clubcivic.com/forum/threads/best-civic-oil-filters-toyo-roki-hamp-synergy-oem.227212/

 

[Hoki]

I use moble 1. I never thought to change the fuel filter... Should i? When do they go bad? How do you know? My cars so zippy and strong though and gets 35mpg as long as I don't accelorate quicky ever. After I bought my car I saw some things zip tied to diff places in my engine and wired to it, some of them have a label that says performance so I donno what it does but I think it makes my car extra double zippy cause I test drove a 2010 and 09 civic and my 06 is way zippier.

 

[XpL0d3r]

I use moble 1. I never thought to change the fuel filter... Should i? When do they go bad? How do you know? My cars so zippy and strong though and gets 35mpg as long as I don't accelorate quicky ever. After I bought my car I saw some things zip tied to diff places in my engine and wired to it, some of them have a label that says performance so I donno what it does but I think it makes my car extra double zippy cause I test drove a 2010 and 09 civic and my 06 is way zippier.

Please do not use capitals throughout your reply. I've fixed the above quoted post for you.

I've cleaned up this thread, too, but am leaving this post as it's not really against the rules.