Cold Start Problem

lo-n-slo

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Update: Still no word from the Honda Service department. I suspect they are closed due to the weather. I still welcome other ideas from the forum members. If they call me and say they still can't replicate the start problem, I'll educate myself on looking at the ECM and perhaps learn some soldering skills.
 

mc360

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You can buy all the tools for less than that 100$ you paid the dealer. You can buy a digital multimeter from harbor freight for 7$ or pay for a better cheap one from sears for 20$, I used a cheap 5$ Walmart soldering iron to fix my main relay. You might need a magnifying glass to look at the solder joint depending on your eyes, I fixed my intermittent no starts by soldering my main relay. You can test the icm (ignitor in distributor) with a multimeter pretty easily but from my experience it's good or bad and not in between.
 

lo-n-slo

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You can buy all the tools for less than that 100$ you paid the dealer. You can buy a digital multimeter from harbor freight for 7$ or pay for a better cheap one from sears for 20$, I used a cheap 5$ Walmart soldering iron to fix my main relay. You might need a magnifying glass to look at the solder joint depending on your eyes, I fixed my intermittent no starts by soldering my main relay. You can test the icm (ignitor in distributor) with a multimeter pretty easily but from my experience it's good or bad and not in between.
I understand your point, and thanks for the input. I don't know how to use any of those things, so I suppose I'll be learning soon. But then I wouldn't get to bother you guys!
 


Diana Nam

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multimeter is pretty much almost self explanatory when you get one. usually just has one dial that you turn
 

mc360

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Multimeters are not self explanatory really, maybe one setting which would be voltage but you still have different voltage setting that will show a different reading. What ever multimeter you get read the instructions, they are Fairly easy to use once you understand what each setting is and how to use it. Factory service manuals will have the steps you need to follow to diagnose falty electrical parts on your car
 

Diana Nam

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Multimeters are not self explanatory really, maybe one setting which would be voltage but you still have different voltage setting that will show a different reading. What ever multimeter you get read the instructions, they are Fairly easy to use once you understand what each setting is and how to use it. Factory service manuals will have the steps you need to follow to diagnose falty electrical parts on your car
i said almost self explanatory, voltage is all he needs to know used 90% of the time. other setting are best left to people who are more familiar with the tool and even then those setting are hardly ever used. i had never used any other function except for when measuring resistance in the the many yrs that i've been doing this
 

lo-n-slo

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UPDATE:
Taking the car to Honda did no good, as some of you already suggested. This receipt was all I got. They did not charge me for the diagnosis, as they "said" they could not replicate the problem after having the car for nearly a week. I picked it up last night, drove it home, and when I started it at about 4:45 this morning to go to work it started, but very reluctantly. I took several tries for the engine to turn over, and when it did, it sounded like it was running on 2 cylinders for about 20 seconds, and then sounded like it was running normal. They said that their diagnostic test showed the battery, alternator, and starter were fine. I don't really know where to start at this point, other than to check the ECM.
 

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HeX

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Open up and inspect the distributor for damage, including the ignition coil. After that, you should consider finding a reputable mechanic, possibly a shop that specializes in Hondas.
 

lo-n-slo

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Open up and inspect the distributor for damage, including the ignition coil. After that, you should consider finding a reputable mechanic, possibly a shop that specializes in Hondas.
Yeah, I thought the Honda Dealership/Service department was possibly a shop that specializes in Hondas, lol...
 

lo-n-slo

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I'm going to start small again. I'll check the distributor, but I also know that the last plugs I put into the car were the cheapest, replacement Bosch plugs. I know some of you recommend NGK. What do you all recommend would be the best plug (not necessarily the most expensive) for my Y8 with 233K miles? There's so many different tips and stuff that I really don't know what is best. Maybe something small like this is causing misfire.
 

HeX

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I'm going to start small again. I'll check the distributor, but I also know that the last plugs I put into the car were the cheapest, replacement Bosch plugs. I know some of you recommend NGK. What do you all recommend would be the best plug (not necessarily the most expensive) for my Y8 with 233K miles? There's so many different tips and stuff that I really don't know what is best. Maybe something small like this is causing misfire.
NGK V-power plugs are the best way to go for these Civics. The basic Bosch plugs might be the problem. They usually dont do well on these Civics.
 

Diana Nam

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NGK V-power plugs are the best way to go for these Civics. The basic Bosch plugs might be the problem. They usually dont do well on these Civics.
yes i second that bosch plugs aren't great with our cars i'm running NGK 9 V power plugs these are colder plugs mostly for turbo or nitrous application NGK plugs work best for japanesse import cars
 

dancam

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You have said a few times that it wont turn over, has a hard time turning over... But still starts. So do you mean it wont start firing or has a hard time firing or 'catching' while its turning over? or do you actually mean that the engine(crankshaft) is barely turning when you engage the starter? Does it spin nice and fast and just not catch or does it hardly turn over?


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lo-n-slo

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You have said a few times that it wont turn over, has a hard time turning over... But still starts. So do you mean it wont start firing or has a hard time firing or 'catching' while its turning over? or do you actually mean that the engine(crankshaft) is barely turning when you engage the starter? Does it spin nice and fast and just not catch or does it hardly turn over?


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Ok, good question. So I push in the clutch, turn the key, and the starter turns and something is turning over but it's just not "catching". The motor does a lot of "coughing" and hear the exhaust attempting to exit the muffler. It's just not really turning over. I try this several times, and if I'm lucky, it starts. Really rough at first like it's about to blow up, and then after 10-30 seconds it levels out and everything seems fine. I wish I had an audio clip or something for you. This is really the best I can explain it. If you've ever tried to start a car with the plug wires out of order that's kinda what it sounds like when trying to start it. It's 33 degrees out today. Earlier this morning it did what I just described, but I got to work. If it's 20 degrees tomorrow morning, I guarantee you it doesn't get me to work.
I have absolutely no issues while I'm driving. It doesn't die, it doesn't idle funny. Just refuses to start sometimes.
 

HeX

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It may also be a fuel injector issue, judging from that last detailed explanation. Remove the fuel injectors and see if they look gunked up (Its not difficult). If so, I say clean the injectors with carb cleaner then use SeaFoam Top Engine cleaner spray or SeaFoam Deep Creep, which does the same as the Top Engine cleaner but its stronger. those products work wonders and may clear whatever blockage may be impeding the injectors, if that's the issue origin. Theyre not cheap but well worth it and can only help your situation. Make sure you're not using cheap gas either.
 

Diana Nam

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you should double check the timing on it. sometimes but rarely but has happened to me once, the timing might have skipped a tooth.
 

lo-n-slo

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you should double check the timing on it. sometimes but rarely but has happened to me once, the timing might have skipped a tooth.
I've considered that as well. I'm not knowledgeable enough to do that yet, but it is something I'm curious about.
 

lo-n-slo

New Member
It may also be a fuel injector issue, judging from that last detailed explanation. Remove the fuel injectors and see if they look gunked up (Its not difficult). If so, I say clean the injectors with carb cleaner then use SeaFoam Top Engine cleaner spray or SeaFoam Deep Creep, which does the same as the Top Engine cleaner but its stronger. those products work wonders and may clear whatever blockage may be impeding the injectors, if that's the issue origin. Theyre not cheap but well worth it and can only help your situation. Make sure you're not using cheap gas either.
I just bought the new plugs and the seafoam, will let you know what I find.
 


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