I'm always checking in, just not always posting...coulda fooled me
Thanks guys.
1997 DX hatch
- Thread starter ReedMann
- Start date
OddandTwisted
New Member
just went through this thread the last couple of days. Great job on it man! It's an inspiration.
First off, you wont need a camber kit so keep that in mind. Secondly, consider Koni str.t struts with Tein s-tech springs. If this will be a daily driver and not much else then coilovers would be overkill & unnecessary extra money that a teen doesnt need to spend.
Otherwise, thats a nice Civic you inherited. Im impressed at how a 17 year old is keeping this build reasonable and not gaudy. Stay a minority, bud. How much did you get the SI rims for?
Otherwise, thats a nice Civic you inherited. Im impressed at how a 17 year old is keeping this build reasonable and not gaudy. Stay a minority, bud. How much did you get the SI rims for?
Thanks for the support man.
Thanks for the advice and the support man. You should check out the rest of the thread haha. I've done a lot since where is seems you've stopped reading. I'm almost 22 now. I'm running on Eibach Sportline springs with Koni Yellow dampers and have about 11,000 miles on them so far. I bought and sold the Si rims about 4 years ago, but if I remember correctly, I got them for around $300.
I bounced around the thread on my phone, so I clearly missed a few things, but keep up the good work. Even at 22, your approach is still well above your generations typical lazy methods.
Well, it's been over a year since I posted anything on here. I graduated from college in the spring and finally have some free time and a little bit of money to spend on my car. Its the first time in about 4 years that I have had either... The Civic is still running strong and is at roughly 192k miles now - almost 25k since the engine swap. I can't wait to cross 200k with it. Its my daily driver and will continue to be for the foreseeable future. It's reliable, fun, fuel efficient, and I don't have any car payments. That being said, I've got a few performance enhancing modifications I would like to make and am in the process of making to the car, but its almost to a point of "completion" if that really exists.
First of all, here are some pictures of my senior design project and the car I spent the entire past year of my life on.
After graduation, I moved from PA to NC to start a new job. My new place has a garage, something I haven't had in 4 years so that is a nice change as well.
The first thing I did was catch up on maintenance. All I had been doing for the last four years was basic fluid changes and tire rotations. I fixed an exhaust leak with some new gaskets, fixed my broken rear seats, and a number of other little things around the car. I also installed an Si steering wheel I had laying around.
After making a little bit of money I bought some new tires and rims for my car. GSR "fat fives" with Yokohama S-Drives in 205/50/15. The tires woke the car up. It was an amazing difference compared to my old Yokohama all-seasons. There is a little bit of rubbing on the inside of the fender well at full lock, but nothing serious. I went to remove my old wheels and tires and unfortunately, 2 of the studs on the LF were messed up. The last time this wheel was off was when my car was at the shop for an inspection so I can only imagine they were cross threaded and run on with an impact. Quite annoying. I ended up driving, very carefully, to the auto parts store 2 miles away on 2 studs. Hammered out the stripped ones and hammered in the replacements.
I made a panel to block off the opening left with no A/C components out of a spare carbon panel. The car was overheating a little bit in traffic in the dead of summer so I was hoping this would help. I haven't seen it overheat since, but its hard to say if this is the reason why. Either way, it also helps to keep the engine bay clean.
When I was younger and stupider, I pulled off the vapor barriers behind the door panels. I've always had terrible problems with the windows fogging up in the rain, especially with no A/C so I decided to add some vapor barriers back.
Finally, the biggest performance project I've been working on is a brake upgrade. The plan is to go to Integra calipers in the front with an Integra 1" master and a 99-00 prop valve. I already have rear discs. I'll also be getting new rotors and pads (likely Hawk) all around. I went to a local junkyard and was able to find the OEM front calipers and master cylinder I needed. One of the nicest parts of being further south is that the cars around here are far less rusty than what I'm accustomed to. I started cleaning up the calipers and realized I wasn't going to be able to get them to the OEM look I desired, so I decided to paint them. Pro tip: use yard sale stickers to mask off circular features!
First of all, here are some pictures of my senior design project and the car I spent the entire past year of my life on.
After graduation, I moved from PA to NC to start a new job. My new place has a garage, something I haven't had in 4 years so that is a nice change as well.
The first thing I did was catch up on maintenance. All I had been doing for the last four years was basic fluid changes and tire rotations. I fixed an exhaust leak with some new gaskets, fixed my broken rear seats, and a number of other little things around the car. I also installed an Si steering wheel I had laying around.
After making a little bit of money I bought some new tires and rims for my car. GSR "fat fives" with Yokohama S-Drives in 205/50/15. The tires woke the car up. It was an amazing difference compared to my old Yokohama all-seasons. There is a little bit of rubbing on the inside of the fender well at full lock, but nothing serious. I went to remove my old wheels and tires and unfortunately, 2 of the studs on the LF were messed up. The last time this wheel was off was when my car was at the shop for an inspection so I can only imagine they were cross threaded and run on with an impact. Quite annoying. I ended up driving, very carefully, to the auto parts store 2 miles away on 2 studs. Hammered out the stripped ones and hammered in the replacements.
I made a panel to block off the opening left with no A/C components out of a spare carbon panel. The car was overheating a little bit in traffic in the dead of summer so I was hoping this would help. I haven't seen it overheat since, but its hard to say if this is the reason why. Either way, it also helps to keep the engine bay clean.
When I was younger and stupider, I pulled off the vapor barriers behind the door panels. I've always had terrible problems with the windows fogging up in the rain, especially with no A/C so I decided to add some vapor barriers back.
Finally, the biggest performance project I've been working on is a brake upgrade. The plan is to go to Integra calipers in the front with an Integra 1" master and a 99-00 prop valve. I already have rear discs. I'll also be getting new rotors and pads (likely Hawk) all around. I went to a local junkyard and was able to find the OEM front calipers and master cylinder I needed. One of the nicest parts of being further south is that the cars around here are far less rusty than what I'm accustomed to. I started cleaning up the calipers and realized I wasn't going to be able to get them to the OEM look I desired, so I decided to paint them. Pro tip: use yard sale stickers to mask off circular features!
The results:
I rebuilt them with all new seals. The dust boots are very annoying to install and I accidentally shredded one in the process so I had to wait for another one to come in to finish everything up. The pistons were in good condition. The picture shows the worst spot on each which was just some surface discoloration with no actual pitting.
I mocked them up on my Si knuckles.
The master cylinder and prop valve.
To complete the brake upgrade, I still need some more parts:
- front lower ball joints for the Si knuckles
- four rotors
- pads for each corner
- rebuilt and painted rear calipers
As far as future modifications/repairs go, the list is small. Like I said, this is and will continue to be my daily driver for a while.
- repair Honda rot - I've got a little bit of rust on the RR quarter panel
- install CTR anti-roll bars - I've got the bars themselves and the CTR FLCAs, but I need endlinks and a rear subframe brace before they can go on
-maybe an HID headlight upgrade - mine are kinda crappy
Other than that just maintenance. But stayed tuned because I'll post any work I do to the car from here on.
lunder03
Respected
Hmmm...I don't think it's the gas making the noticable change in your average mpg.
Elevation difference is most likely the reason for the change in mpg...there is almost 5,200 ft. of elevation change between those two cities.
Also, no CEL's???
If so could be o2 sensor(s), or bad egr valve, etc.
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Oops...should have read further ahead in regards to elevation before commenting.
My thought too, almost 5,200 ft of elevation change. Kind of a big factor there. :-)
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Nice build by the way, haven't seen the end yet, still reading. Was going to post my thoughts at the end, but I had seen a mistake made by another member...so it'd be rude to comment on a post on your thread and none in regards to your build.
Where I'm at you're still 17 or so and the swap isn't complete yet...so...lol...sure it's not the case now.
Anyway, very, very nice thus far! Reading until the end is almost like a book.
Alright, keep up the great work and I'm certain I'll reply when I finish too.
Thanks for all the uploads and descriptive writings.
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Am leaving off on page 97 until tomorrow. Am surprised at how long it takes to read through it all!
Nice build thus far...will see if can't finish the read tomorrow after work.
Way to go and be Reed!
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lunder03
Respected
Have read through it all...a day and a half later I have finished the read; over 1,500 posts WOW!
So, clearly no longer a teen, not that you ever were IMO...but I'm certain far more knowledgable than when you started. I did notice your writing has become noticeably better since completing college and hopefully your degree helps you and doesn't become a worthless piece of paper...such is my case.
You've received a great deal of excellent and positive feedback from some pretty reputable idividuals from what I've read here, and on other postings.
I myself have been working on two cars for roughly two years now. An a4 b6 audi and a 7th gen. Civic EX...neither have been easy. The ups and downs while smiles and frowns come and go, but the knowledge while also forethought have stayed and continue to grow.
My hat is off to you sir, for your patience and complete dedication to your build. I had no doubt you would complete your schooling and your build and I realized this early on after your first swap and the engine issues.
It's not about hope, or faith, or etc...it's about not giving up!!! These things I say aren't things you don't already know so I won't waste anymore of your time with that. ;-)
I would like to give a few pointers in regards to saving money...things I was suprised were not mentioned by other members...however, tis no real matter as you came through in fine style! I just thought they might help you for future reference.
So, without further adieu...
No need to take a head to a machine shop or the block to be resurfaced due to warpage and no need to pay anymore than $20 for a straight edge to check for warpage with feeler gauges.
Buy a "super square" aka framing square from home depot or lowes...these are true squares and completely adequate for checking for warpage. And finally, a piece of plexiglass, spray tack glue/glue in a spray can and sand paper are all that is needed to save money in regards to resurfacing a head.
Place an adequate size piece of plexiglass suitable to your needs on a flat surface, preferably a bench. Then, clamp in place.
Note: Can be placed on the ground granted your plexiglass is placed on a flat hard surface and you either stand or anchor it down fairly well.
Spray on the glue in an area which suits your needs and bond your sand paper (two areas for 80+ grit.), onto your plexiglass. This is really just dependant upon the difference in the thousanths of an inch of the overall warpage. If significant warpage say, 7 thousanths+ start with 80 grit and work up to your liking. However, 120-150 is all that's necessary.
Head & block prep.
Remove all the components of the head, cams, valves, springs, etc. and block, pistons rings, crank, etc. then simply place the head/block on the sandpaper...from there push and pull letting the weight of the head/block act as the downforce. This will allow the individual to concentrate on pushing and pulling strictly.
Push and pull a decent distance 6-8" roughly and check changes every so often.
You should be able to detect low spots almost immediately by the contrast of color. Even spots will, or should have a machine like finish, while low spots remaining dull, dirty and possibly even showing gaskets particles/debri.
You sand until all areas of the head have a machine like finish. I recommend getting close to your designation and then upping your grits to desired finish. I wouldn't go hire than 150 grit. My reasoning is based off of liking to use the permatex copper spray-a-gasket. I feel there needs to be room for adhesion. If you don't or won't use it, shine to your liking. Do bear in mind the "wear gauges" located on both sides of the long side of the head. These indicators let you know how far you're allowed to sand down. If the head has to be sanded beyond those indicators it is useless, unfortunately.
I'm certain you could rig up a flat board with plexiglass and handles then glue sand paper to it and work on a block to avoid taking the block apart. I'd be certain to have a compressor or air in a can (found in the electronics dept., or electronics store), and rotate the crank and spray the piston and rings out with.
So...during your days of sadness and sorrow...i.e. bad head and block, before we knew what was going on...lol...I'm screaming at my phone man this is shitty that I can do nothing to help!
Anyway, used this method on my Civic, worked flawlessly...car has been going two years with no issues.
I had noticed the copper gasket spray was mentioned by you in an earlier post, not certain if anyone responded, but that is a definite go! No matter how you look at it...use it even if there is no warpage...it's a tried and true product. Google for some product reviews.
As for you, a very respectable build; everything looks fantastic...you can tell just with the photos, a lot of thought and care and more thought was put into play during this build...a lot of thought. Did I say thought yet?
Anyway, thank you young man for showing hard work, dedication, drive, patience, the list goes on sir. It really is a rarety these days.
To answer your question, is a project ever finished? The answer is no...however, there is also a time to move on. I believe CHILD knows this all to well. Everyone has their favorite though, one they will talk about the most as the years pass.
Thank you again, will be checking in to see if there have been any changes.
Sent from my SM-G360P using Tapatalk
So, clearly no longer a teen, not that you ever were IMO...but I'm certain far more knowledgable than when you started. I did notice your writing has become noticeably better since completing college and hopefully your degree helps you and doesn't become a worthless piece of paper...such is my case.
You've received a great deal of excellent and positive feedback from some pretty reputable idividuals from what I've read here, and on other postings.
I myself have been working on two cars for roughly two years now. An a4 b6 audi and a 7th gen. Civic EX...neither have been easy. The ups and downs while smiles and frowns come and go, but the knowledge while also forethought have stayed and continue to grow.
My hat is off to you sir, for your patience and complete dedication to your build. I had no doubt you would complete your schooling and your build and I realized this early on after your first swap and the engine issues.
It's not about hope, or faith, or etc...it's about not giving up!!! These things I say aren't things you don't already know so I won't waste anymore of your time with that. ;-)
I would like to give a few pointers in regards to saving money...things I was suprised were not mentioned by other members...however, tis no real matter as you came through in fine style! I just thought they might help you for future reference.
So, without further adieu...
No need to take a head to a machine shop or the block to be resurfaced due to warpage and no need to pay anymore than $20 for a straight edge to check for warpage with feeler gauges.
Buy a "super square" aka framing square from home depot or lowes...these are true squares and completely adequate for checking for warpage. And finally, a piece of plexiglass, spray tack glue/glue in a spray can and sand paper are all that is needed to save money in regards to resurfacing a head.
Place an adequate size piece of plexiglass suitable to your needs on a flat surface, preferably a bench. Then, clamp in place.
Note: Can be placed on the ground granted your plexiglass is placed on a flat hard surface and you either stand or anchor it down fairly well.
Spray on the glue in an area which suits your needs and bond your sand paper (two areas for 80+ grit.), onto your plexiglass. This is really just dependant upon the difference in the thousanths of an inch of the overall warpage. If significant warpage say, 7 thousanths+ start with 80 grit and work up to your liking. However, 120-150 is all that's necessary.
Head & block prep.
Remove all the components of the head, cams, valves, springs, etc. and block, pistons rings, crank, etc. then simply place the head/block on the sandpaper...from there push and pull letting the weight of the head/block act as the downforce. This will allow the individual to concentrate on pushing and pulling strictly.
Push and pull a decent distance 6-8" roughly and check changes every so often.
You should be able to detect low spots almost immediately by the contrast of color. Even spots will, or should have a machine like finish, while low spots remaining dull, dirty and possibly even showing gaskets particles/debri.
You sand until all areas of the head have a machine like finish. I recommend getting close to your designation and then upping your grits to desired finish. I wouldn't go hire than 150 grit. My reasoning is based off of liking to use the permatex copper spray-a-gasket. I feel there needs to be room for adhesion. If you don't or won't use it, shine to your liking. Do bear in mind the "wear gauges" located on both sides of the long side of the head. These indicators let you know how far you're allowed to sand down. If the head has to be sanded beyond those indicators it is useless, unfortunately.
I'm certain you could rig up a flat board with plexiglass and handles then glue sand paper to it and work on a block to avoid taking the block apart. I'd be certain to have a compressor or air in a can (found in the electronics dept., or electronics store), and rotate the crank and spray the piston and rings out with.
So...during your days of sadness and sorrow...i.e. bad head and block, before we knew what was going on...lol...I'm screaming at my phone man this is shitty that I can do nothing to help!
Anyway, used this method on my Civic, worked flawlessly...car has been going two years with no issues.
I had noticed the copper gasket spray was mentioned by you in an earlier post, not certain if anyone responded, but that is a definite go! No matter how you look at it...use it even if there is no warpage...it's a tried and true product. Google for some product reviews.
As for you, a very respectable build; everything looks fantastic...you can tell just with the photos, a lot of thought and care and more thought was put into play during this build...a lot of thought. Did I say thought yet?
Anyway, thank you young man for showing hard work, dedication, drive, patience, the list goes on sir. It really is a rarety these days.
To answer your question, is a project ever finished? The answer is no...however, there is also a time to move on. I believe CHILD knows this all to well. Everyone has their favorite though, one they will talk about the most as the years pass.
Thank you again, will be checking in to see if there have been any changes.
Sent from my SM-G360P using Tapatalk
nice work on rebuilding the calipers. thats a task ive been fortunate enough to not be forced to tackle yet. i do have a spare set of integra calipers that i may attempt with. the silver paint made them look fresh too. it makes me wish i had used the same instead of black on mine. i see you grabbed a different prop valve.. which one exactly did you get?
ImportFan1
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Welcome back Reed. And nice updates. Where you working now? That's a sweet senior project.
Thanks man! It sure does feel good getting back to work on it and catching up on a bunch of stuff I haven't been able to work on for awhile.Good stuff! I bet it feels good to spend some time on the Honda. Congrats on graduating and building that race car
Thanks! Yup, that was for the Formula SAE Michigan competition this spring.
Wow, thanks for taking the time to read the whole thread. There is a lot of crap in here so I'm flattered you stuck it out till the end. Also, thanks for all the kind words. I look back at previous posts and can definitely tell that I've grown up since starting the thread. Thanks also for the advice on the head and block. Wish I would have know these tips back then, because I was desperate enough to try anything, but I guess that's the way it goes sometimes. Thanks again for the support and stay tuned for more in the future!
Thanks. It really wasn't too bad of a job to do. The only annoying part is getting the dust boot back on, but that just takes patience. The new prop valve is from a '99 Si - so a factory rear disc brake Civic.
Thanks man. I was able to land a pretty sweet job working for a NASCAR team so I get to spend my days working on/designing race car parts. Formula SAE is a great project. Its a ton of work and a lot of time, but totally worth everything you put in.
XpL0d3r
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Nice! How did you guys do. And what does the "cost" scoring mean? Looking at the results, my alma matter (RIT) got 36th place there... cost score for everyone is like 60-70 points, but, RIT got -9? lol
In 2016, we finished 76th due to engine issues in the main event. From early events we knew our car was easily in the top 15 in speed, but engine sensor issues caused the car to die on us... We finished 6th place overall my junior year though.
The cost event is a calculation for how much it would cost to produce 100 of your vehicle in a year. You get points for correctly following the required format and submitting accurate calculations. You also get points for how much the car would cost to make - the cheaper the better. So RIT's car was either really expensive or they made a bunch of calculation errors lol. Likely the latter since the calculations are pretty in depth and require a lot of attention to detail.
ok so i finally went back to the beginning and read through this entire build and all that i can say is wow! the thorough attention to detail and complete diy attack was incredible. im extremely impressed and inspired, especially by all the little touches like the custom headlight harness. that, as well as the engine harness, is something i wish i had the diligence to do myself. your efforts and focus on cleanliness put the vast majority of the "honda community" myself included, to shame. no corners cut here! keep the ball rolling! what are your plans for the future of this car? also i found it interesting that you used to live in carlisle which is fairly close to myself.
you can also use Subaru wrx dual piston calipers for impoving the brakes as a alternatives, yes they do fit since I have then on my civic. they also fit on the type r/prelude/crv caliper braket which will allow you to use 11.2-11.8 in rotors instead of 10.2 in rotors that came on the integra, EX/SI civics
That would make absolutely no sense when he just went through the effort rebuilding and painting his itr calipers which are more than sufficient to stop a b16 hatch.
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