1999 Honda Civic Si Build.

SpoofMastaFly

New Member
Check your clutch res, might have air in the system too. Your clutch should engage right in the middle of your pedal throw.
 

Stowers74

New Member
How would you check it for air? I've never really messed with clutches or transmissions apart from shifter cables and stuff lol
 


Stowers74

New Member
I'm starting to get the feeling that ill have to find a stock clutch and put it in. I seriously can't take off without dumping the clutch..
 

Stowers74

New Member
It's not exactly that, like most of it is lack of skill on my part. My dad can do it perfectly, but them again, he's been driving for 40 years and has had a few cars with racing clutches. Like on the link it said that the clutch didn't engage until it was to the floor, mine doesn't engage til its nearly released. I managed to go out and drive a bit and finally got used to how late it engages. I still feel like I have to dump the clutch or drive it like some old woman and let it kinda coast a bit without giving it gas and then giving it gas when it gets going
 

SpoofMastaFly

New Member
No need to check for air. Just check to see if your clutch resavor is full, then see its leaking anywhere (behind the pedal also) then check to see if there are any leaks on your master cylinder on the transmission. If none thats a good start, even if the resavor is full I would try bleeding the system. Takes no time as long as you have a friend to pump the clutch.

How to:

Some guys suggest putting a tube around your bleed valve into a cup of Dot 3 brake fluid. You don't have to but it helps to see the air bubbles and keep the valve from sucking air back into the system.

Anyway, make sure your res is full. Have your buddy pump the pedal a few times. Then hold it to the floor, now you crack the bleed screw. Tighten it once fluid stops coming out. All while your buddy keeps the pedal to the floor. Now have him pull it back up by hand and pump the pedal about ten times. Repeat till you see no air bubbles and the clutch feels good. Ensure you check the res every so often to make sure it is full of brakefluid. Don't want to fill the system back with air.

Shouldn't take long at all.

If your master cylinder or clutch res has any leaks you need to replace
Them.
 

Stowers74

New Member
Ok, so I finally got around to putting in the new regulator for the window, I got it installed and the window in the tracks and everything bolted together, but it still falls off the track about half way down.. It's almost like the front end is being pulled up slower than the back causing it to come off track... Any suggestions?
 

Stowers74

New Member
Ok, so I think I found the problem.. The Window Run Channel thing is basically shreded. There are about 2 tears on each side about halfway up.. So my guess is that its hitting the tears and jumping off track. Im going to attempt to replace the run channel to see if it helps, but i wont have the money for it til like friday...
 

RealRabbit

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Ok, so I think I found the problem.. The Window Run Channel thing is basically shreded. There are about 2 tears on each side about halfway up.. So my guess is that its hitting the tears and jumping off track. Im going to attempt to replace the run channel to see if it helps, but i wont have the money for it til like friday...
That will cause problems. Also the track can be adjusted. I just replaced mine. If you have the door panel off you can see a bolt on each side. Loosen it, push it in and hold it. Then tighten the bolt. The seal cost me 80 from Honda.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2
 

Stowers74

New Member
dear god. I wasnt expecting it to be that much... The fact that i'm 17 and work a part time, minimum wage job doesnt help haha. So i may try to kinda melt down the rips and see if I can ghetto rig it back together and lube it up and see if that works.. Wouldnt hurt to try lol.
 

Stowers74

New Member
Ebay is like $30, but i dont trust ebay. the few things Ive ordered from there have either been broken or the wrong part.. Its kinda hard to mess up this though isnt it lol?
 

RealRabbit

New Member
Registered VIP
Try adjusting the window channel first. See if that helps out. Also, if you lube it up use lithium grease.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2
 

Stowers74

New Member
Ive already tried lubing it up, but it still ran off track because of the tears. Ive heard of guys just duct taping the tears and running it like that. I mean, its inside the door, so nobody would see it, right? I may try doing that for now, and order the new part and put it in when it gets here.

Completely off topic but ive decided to go somewhat all out on the sound system for the Civic. I'll be driving it for like the next 6 years (at least) so I am going to do it right the first time. I've put Rocksford-Fosgate CoAxial speakers in all of my previous cars and I was honestly impressed at the quality of them. For the civic though, I think I'm going to try to put component speakers in it... The only thing is that the front door speakers are only 6.5's (i think) so would that limit my room for component speakers? Or could I still run components? Or just get 6.5's and then some aftermarket tweeters?

Also, I kinda want to try another brand other than Rocksford Fosgate, any suggestions? Probably going to go with one or two Sundown Audio 10 inch subs in a sealed (Custom built by me) but I'm not sure what door speakers to go with? Also, I dont listen to like rap, mostly stuff from the 70s and 80s lol.
 

Stowers74

New Member
ok, so i tried the duct tape thing and lubed it up, but the window keeps falling off in the same spot... Im starting to think the guy gave me the wrong regulator or something? It seems like its struggling to lift up the front and back halfs at the same speed...
 

stcopley

Trollin in the Deep
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5+ Year Member
I got some polk dxi 6.5 components for my front, and the wattage on the voice coil of them matches the 6x9 coaxial in the rear perfectly. Great all around sound, especially when hooked up to an amp that can power them properly. Both speakers are 100w rms rated, so the majority of 4 channel amps will match them well.

Otherwise, pm me with any audio questions you have and i should be able to help or atleast point you in the right direction.
 

I_GOT_BOOST

since 06
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10+ Year Member
ok two things ..............................

1). If you want si rims.....i will trade with you but you would have to wait until like june-july i have a set with out tires so you could maybe get yourself some steelies and take the tires off of those rotas and we can trade wheels for wheels we just both pay for the shipping of our own wheels

2). if you want to turbo your car read this its pretty cool s**t

http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/tech/htup_0805_500hp_stock_block_b16a/viewall.html
 

Stowers74

New Member
Id love to turbo my Civic, just dont have the money for it, How much would everything cost? Just parts, i could install it myself. And turboing it would kill MPG wouldnt it? Im getting pretty great MPG in this (drove like 134 miles on 3.5 gallons of gas lol). Unless its a smaller turbo, then itd actually help the MPG a bit wouldnt it? Ive gotta get all the little stuff done, like the power windows and sound system before i can think about turboing it...
 

I_GOT_BOOST

since 06
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10+ Year Member
a good kit like a go autoworks kit will run around 2k you can probably piece together a decent one for less......and depends on the tune if you get it tuned for it to be a gas sipper then i dont see why you cant turbo and be gas friendly
 

ImportFan1

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a good kit like a go autoworks kit will run around 2k you can probably piece together a decent one for less......and depends on the tune if you get it tuned for it to be a gas sipper then i dont see why you cant turbo and be gas friendly
Greg does great work but his kits start at $2k. Another place that does good work is RC Autoworks. They don't have a lot on their site but they offer all kinds of stuff.
 


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