Actually, I have another update. I ordered the rebuild kit from Synchrotech for the spare D16Y8 S40 transmission that I picked up. Once the suspension is buttoned up, replacing the current transmission, clutch and exhaust will be next on the docket. I spent a bit of time debating over whether to use OEM brass synchronizer blocker rings or the carbon kevlar lined rings. Since I won't be doing any serious, high-RPM shifting and considering that the original synchros are still pretty smooth after 308,000km, I opted to save the $50 and use the OEM blocker rings. I'll teardown and inspect the transmission in the next week or so.
2000 CX Hatchback Beater Revival
- Thread starter RestoRoc89
- Start date
It's been a busy week at work, so I don't have much else to report. These jumped in my car yesterday--I found them locally for $250. Kobe Rebel 17X7 wheels with cheap but decent Hercules Raptis tires. It doesn't really go along with the beater theme, but I'll put locking lugs on them and hope for the best. You can see some peeling clear coat on the machined lips--I'll strip and respray the lips eventually.
I also ordered a few more parts to arrive for the weekend including TruHart adjustable front upper control arms, MOOG front lower ball joints, Civic EX front lower control arms (to have a sway bar mounting point) and Hardrace front lower control arm bushings. I should be able to get the car moving on its own again after the upcoming weekend.
My father-in-law welded all the current exhaust flanges together and I will have to cut some pieces out to replace the transmission…so, I'd like to just replace the exhaust front to back with stainless components. Any recommendations for reasonable priced exhaust systems? I've seen Megan racing and Yonaka offerings at price points I don't mind for the beater, but I know you usually get what you pay for.
I also ordered a few more parts to arrive for the weekend including TruHart adjustable front upper control arms, MOOG front lower ball joints, Civic EX front lower control arms (to have a sway bar mounting point) and Hardrace front lower control arm bushings. I should be able to get the car moving on its own again after the upcoming weekend.
My father-in-law welded all the current exhaust flanges together and I will have to cut some pieces out to replace the transmission…so, I'd like to just replace the exhaust front to back with stainless components. Any recommendations for reasonable priced exhaust systems? I've seen Megan racing and Yonaka offerings at price points I don't mind for the beater, but I know you usually get what you pay for.
great thread. looking forward to more progress!
Progress time! First, another batch of parts arrived.
I was excited to open these boxes from TruHart.
Here's what I found inside. Lower rear control arms, adjustable upper control arms and adjustable compensator arms. If this were going on a show car, I would be somewhat disappointed as there are more than a few dings in the finish on my lower control arms. You can see a few in the pictures. However, they were reasonably priced and they're already better than my beater deserves. These parts come with Hardrace bushings. So far, I'm a fan of Hardrace products.
Next, I got a complete kit from Centric to replace the rear drum brakes. Yes, a rear disk swap is tempting, but I had to draw the line somewhere.
The black paint on the 'premium' drums is a nice touch.
I picked up some new dust shields to protect the spindle nuts on the trailing arms…the OE shields had rusted right through.
To solve the mysteriously-disappearing brake fluid, I got a new master cylinder, also from Centric. Looks like a nice piece that comes complete with reservoir and level switch.
I finally got the rest of my strut assembly parts…or at least what I thought was the rest. KYB isolators and MOOG mounting plates.
Since the rear hatch has a tendency to fall on your head at random, I grabbed a pair of new lift struts.
And, finally, my one extraneous purchase for this project…I grabbed a used CRV instrument cluster so that I can have a tachometer. It's even from a Canadian car--hooray!
Finally, I can start putting things together.
I was excited to open these boxes from TruHart.
Here's what I found inside. Lower rear control arms, adjustable upper control arms and adjustable compensator arms. If this were going on a show car, I would be somewhat disappointed as there are more than a few dings in the finish on my lower control arms. You can see a few in the pictures. However, they were reasonably priced and they're already better than my beater deserves. These parts come with Hardrace bushings. So far, I'm a fan of Hardrace products.
Next, I got a complete kit from Centric to replace the rear drum brakes. Yes, a rear disk swap is tempting, but I had to draw the line somewhere.
The black paint on the 'premium' drums is a nice touch.
I picked up some new dust shields to protect the spindle nuts on the trailing arms…the OE shields had rusted right through.
To solve the mysteriously-disappearing brake fluid, I got a new master cylinder, also from Centric. Looks like a nice piece that comes complete with reservoir and level switch.
I finally got the rest of my strut assembly parts…or at least what I thought was the rest. KYB isolators and MOOG mounting plates.
Since the rear hatch has a tendency to fall on your head at random, I grabbed a pair of new lift struts.
And, finally, my one extraneous purchase for this project…I grabbed a used CRV instrument cluster so that I can have a tachometer. It's even from a Canadian car--hooray!
Finally, I can start putting things together.
Yesterday, I started mocking up my rear strut assemblies. I thought I had purchased all the new hardware I would need to avoid dismantling the old, rusty assemblies. Quickly, I realized that I had forgotten to order the dust boots and bump stops. Doh!
On a Canadian car this old, there is no way the top shock nut is going to come off. I tried one just to be optimistic. Heated it with a torch, doused the rod in oil…and proceeded to just snap the top of the rod off with my hex bit. Time to bust out the spring compressors and the angle grinder. Here's how that process panned out.
Finally, some process. I got the first rear strut fully assembled…but then I realized that I installed the isolator bushings in the wrong orientation (cone pointing towards the centre of the mount plate instead of pointing away from it).
After taking them apart and correcting the isolator installation, I laid out the pieces to assemble the driver's side rear suspension. This is the point where I realized I have an ugly collection of colours…oh well. They should work nicely.
Since I was running short on time and also running out of daylight, I didn't really take any more pictures. I managed to get both rear trailing arm assemblies back in the car last night. The general process I followed was:
1. Install compensator arms in the trailing arm first (loosely).
2. Bolt the trailing arm up to the chassis (again, leave the bolts a touch loose).
3. Start the bolt connecting the compensator arm to the chassis (I centred the toe sliders and tack welded them in place since I have adjustable arms now).
4. Bolt the lower control arm to the chassis.
5. Push the strut up into the strut tower, swing the lower control arm up into place, start the bolt connecting the strut to the control arm and then start the bolt connecting the control arm to the trailing arm.
6. Place a jack under the lower control arm to lift the trailing arm up into place and hold the strut plate to the strut tower.
7. Install the upper control arm loosely.
8. Install the nuts securing the strut mount plate to the strut tower.
9. Jack up the lower control arm further until the car just starts to lift off the jackstand. This way, I know the suspension is fully loaded.
10. Torque all fasteners to specs in the service manual. I started with the trailing arm bolts, then the upper control arm-to-chassis bolts, then the strut mounts and, finally, all the pivoting joints.
Here's a nasty picture in the dark. I find that the flash makes rust look so much worse than it really is. I'll take better ones in the daylight today.
On a Canadian car this old, there is no way the top shock nut is going to come off. I tried one just to be optimistic. Heated it with a torch, doused the rod in oil…and proceeded to just snap the top of the rod off with my hex bit. Time to bust out the spring compressors and the angle grinder. Here's how that process panned out.
Finally, some process. I got the first rear strut fully assembled…but then I realized that I installed the isolator bushings in the wrong orientation (cone pointing towards the centre of the mount plate instead of pointing away from it).
After taking them apart and correcting the isolator installation, I laid out the pieces to assemble the driver's side rear suspension. This is the point where I realized I have an ugly collection of colours…oh well. They should work nicely.
Since I was running short on time and also running out of daylight, I didn't really take any more pictures. I managed to get both rear trailing arm assemblies back in the car last night. The general process I followed was:
1. Install compensator arms in the trailing arm first (loosely).
2. Bolt the trailing arm up to the chassis (again, leave the bolts a touch loose).
3. Start the bolt connecting the compensator arm to the chassis (I centred the toe sliders and tack welded them in place since I have adjustable arms now).
4. Bolt the lower control arm to the chassis.
5. Push the strut up into the strut tower, swing the lower control arm up into place, start the bolt connecting the strut to the control arm and then start the bolt connecting the control arm to the trailing arm.
6. Place a jack under the lower control arm to lift the trailing arm up into place and hold the strut plate to the strut tower.
7. Install the upper control arm loosely.
8. Install the nuts securing the strut mount plate to the strut tower.
9. Jack up the lower control arm further until the car just starts to lift off the jackstand. This way, I know the suspension is fully loaded.
10. Torque all fasteners to specs in the service manual. I started with the trailing arm bolts, then the upper control arm-to-chassis bolts, then the strut mounts and, finally, all the pivoting joints.
Here's a nasty picture in the dark. I find that the flash makes rust look so much worse than it really is. I'll take better ones in the daylight today.
Today was somewhat productive (since it was a holiday in Canada). First, here are some pictures of the new rear suspension components installed. The clean, new parts are certainly overshadowed by the chassis' rusted glory…
I am going to replace all of the brake tubing with Honda parts (I think it's awesome that Honda actually sells replacement braking tubing) and probably install a set of braided stainless hoses as well…but, first, I want some proof of concept. So, I started by installing the new rear drum brakes and replacing the master cylinder. I was a little lazy about taking pictures, but I'm sure most of you on here know how to tackle brakes perfectly well.
Here I am swapping the parking brake actuator arm over to my new brake shoes on the right side. Those e-clips are always fun to wrestle with. I made sure to grease any sliding surfaces with hi-temp brake grease.
Skipping a million steps, here's the left side fully assembled, replete with new wheel cylinders, shoes and hardware. The adjuster mechanism was salvageable.
Both sides with drums installed after adjustment (of both the shoe separation and the parking brake cable tension).
The next chore to tackle was replacing the master cylinder to rectify a rod seal leak.
This…
…must go in there…
Old.
New!
I bled the air out of the master cylinder on my workbench prior to installing it in the car. 'Eric the Car Guy' has an excellent procedure video on YouTube. Having done that, the brakes bled quickly and easily (I very much enjoy not having an ABS manifold to deal with on this car). With all of that done, I tossed on the rear wheels.
Looks a little silly, doesn't it? I wouldn't be surprised if this car ends up getting a complete, budget-minded paint job after I tackle the rusty quarter panels and replace the hood/front bumper. Step one: get it driving reliably and well.
I am going to replace all of the brake tubing with Honda parts (I think it's awesome that Honda actually sells replacement braking tubing) and probably install a set of braided stainless hoses as well…but, first, I want some proof of concept. So, I started by installing the new rear drum brakes and replacing the master cylinder. I was a little lazy about taking pictures, but I'm sure most of you on here know how to tackle brakes perfectly well.
Here I am swapping the parking brake actuator arm over to my new brake shoes on the right side. Those e-clips are always fun to wrestle with. I made sure to grease any sliding surfaces with hi-temp brake grease.
Skipping a million steps, here's the left side fully assembled, replete with new wheel cylinders, shoes and hardware. The adjuster mechanism was salvageable.
Both sides with drums installed after adjustment (of both the shoe separation and the parking brake cable tension).
The next chore to tackle was replacing the master cylinder to rectify a rod seal leak.
This…
…must go in there…
Old.
New!
I bled the air out of the master cylinder on my workbench prior to installing it in the car. 'Eric the Car Guy' has an excellent procedure video on YouTube. Having done that, the brakes bled quickly and easily (I very much enjoy not having an ABS manifold to deal with on this car). With all of that done, I tossed on the rear wheels.
Looks a little silly, doesn't it? I wouldn't be surprised if this car ends up getting a complete, budget-minded paint job after I tackle the rusty quarter panels and replace the hood/front bumper. Step one: get it driving reliably and well.
Next, I wanted something mindless and easy to do. The rear lift gate has fallen on my head a few times already, so I decided that replacing the blown lift struts was now on the agenda. I purchased Monroe replacements (the cheapest offering Rock Auto had). This turned out to be a poorer choice--I won't be such a cheapskate in the future and I'll show you why.
Here is the factory strut removed. It comes out in five seconds by removing one bolt and one spring clip.
On the lift gate end, a socket attaches to a spherical stud. This allows for adequate articulation and it's very easy to connect/disconnect. The more-expensive replacement parts include this socket design.
My Monroe replacements feature a pin swivel joint instead. Note the required deflection in the bushing, which I know won't be long for this world. The very worst part is that the new parts required me to replace the bracket with the spherical stud. That entailed removing all of the plastic trim on the lift gate. On a 15-yr old car that has never been messed with, removing plastic parts is the last thing I want to do. Amazingly, I didn't snap ANY of the plastic tabs that accommodate the various push pins and spring clips. I took the opportunity to clean the plastics up prior to re-installation.
Here is the lift gate elevated under its own power once more.
One more gripe. The factory lift struts have a one-piece bushing that fits nicely over the fixing bolt on the chassis side. The Monroe parts have this awful two-piece spacer setup that doesn't take up the slop around the fixing bolt. As a result, if you push on the lift gate while it's open, the struts 'clack' on the bolts. This is minor, but it annoys me. Don't buy these Monroe parts. As a matter of fact, based on experience with other platforms, don't buy Monroe parts at all, ever.
Here she is with the trim re-installed. I'll have a lot of work to do when cleaning the interior up.
Here is the factory strut removed. It comes out in five seconds by removing one bolt and one spring clip.
On the lift gate end, a socket attaches to a spherical stud. This allows for adequate articulation and it's very easy to connect/disconnect. The more-expensive replacement parts include this socket design.
My Monroe replacements feature a pin swivel joint instead. Note the required deflection in the bushing, which I know won't be long for this world. The very worst part is that the new parts required me to replace the bracket with the spherical stud. That entailed removing all of the plastic trim on the lift gate. On a 15-yr old car that has never been messed with, removing plastic parts is the last thing I want to do. Amazingly, I didn't snap ANY of the plastic tabs that accommodate the various push pins and spring clips. I took the opportunity to clean the plastics up prior to re-installation.
Here is the lift gate elevated under its own power once more.
One more gripe. The factory lift struts have a one-piece bushing that fits nicely over the fixing bolt on the chassis side. The Monroe parts have this awful two-piece spacer setup that doesn't take up the slop around the fixing bolt. As a result, if you push on the lift gate while it's open, the struts 'clack' on the bolts. This is minor, but it annoys me. Don't buy these Monroe parts. As a matter of fact, based on experience with other platforms, don't buy Monroe parts at all, ever.
Here she is with the trim re-installed. I'll have a lot of work to do when cleaning the interior up.
Some more new parts showed up, including my TruHart front upper control arms. My excitement was quickly dashed. Here's the lovely-looking right-hand part.
Unfortunately, the left-side arm had a weld defect that jumped out pretty quickly upon visual inspection. I'm fairly surprised that this made it through QA (or lack thereof). To their credit, the seller, Active Distributing, immediately put a new PAIR of arms in the mail. They're not even asking for the old ones back, so I will have spare balljoints and bushings (made by Hardrace). The balljoints seem rock solid and have a nice boot design. As an alternative, I suppose I could repair the weld and have a complete set of spare arms that I'll probably never need.
In other, less exciting news, I also picked up MOOG lower balljoints and some tune-up parts. I hope I don't regret buying the Airtex-Wells distributor parts. Everyone here seems to favour OEM for ignition items.
You might wonder why I didn't purchase an aftermarket air intake. It's a gutless D16Y7, that's why. I will, however, be getting a header because I need exhaust parts anyways. If/when this motor eventually gives up, I may have some fun with it. When you've got a 500hp car sitting in the garage, modifying the engine in your Civic just doesn't seem like a priority.
For what it's worth, the Hardrace balljoints put the MOOG Problem Solver (now made in Mexico??) parts to shame.
Unfortunately, the left-side arm had a weld defect that jumped out pretty quickly upon visual inspection. I'm fairly surprised that this made it through QA (or lack thereof). To their credit, the seller, Active Distributing, immediately put a new PAIR of arms in the mail. They're not even asking for the old ones back, so I will have spare balljoints and bushings (made by Hardrace). The balljoints seem rock solid and have a nice boot design. As an alternative, I suppose I could repair the weld and have a complete set of spare arms that I'll probably never need.
In other, less exciting news, I also picked up MOOG lower balljoints and some tune-up parts. I hope I don't regret buying the Airtex-Wells distributor parts. Everyone here seems to favour OEM for ignition items.
You might wonder why I didn't purchase an aftermarket air intake. It's a gutless D16Y7, that's why. I will, however, be getting a header because I need exhaust parts anyways. If/when this motor eventually gives up, I may have some fun with it. When you've got a 500hp car sitting in the garage, modifying the engine in your Civic just doesn't seem like a priority.
For what it's worth, the Hardrace balljoints put the MOOG Problem Solver (now made in Mexico??) parts to shame.
I started dismantling the front suspension tonight. My first goal was to replace the shock assemblies. Amazingly, none of the front shock hardware was terribly rusty like the rear was. Everything was removed by hand, intact.
I'm crossing my fingers here as I attempt to remove the shock fork pinch bolt.
However, you can see that it came out free of drama.
This is the point where I ran into a snag--my spring compressors are too beefy to fit in-between the coils on the front springs. My solution: I'm just going to order new dust boots, bump stops and associated washers from Majestic Honda so that I don't have to disassemble the factory struts. Yes, I checked, my spring compressors DO fit on the new Tein springs, so I'll have no troubles with the assembly stage.
Check out the ever-growing scrap heap. I'll have to take a trip to the dump soon.
I'm crossing my fingers here as I attempt to remove the shock fork pinch bolt.
However, you can see that it came out free of drama.
This is the point where I ran into a snag--my spring compressors are too beefy to fit in-between the coils on the front springs. My solution: I'm just going to order new dust boots, bump stops and associated washers from Majestic Honda so that I don't have to disassemble the factory struts. Yes, I checked, my spring compressors DO fit on the new Tein springs, so I'll have no troubles with the assembly stage.
Check out the ever-growing scrap heap. I'll have to take a trip to the dump soon.
While I'm waiting on my front shock assembly hardware, I figured I may as well continue with the front suspension tear down and take care of the ball joints/tie rod ends.
Starting with the right tie rod end, I'm thankful for my impact gun. There's no way the rusty cotter pins were coming out, but the castle nuts had no trouble shearing them off on the way out
It took some very deliberate hammering to get the tie rod end's taper to break free of the knuckle. I do have the separator tool, but it takes too long to dig out and set up in 90% of cases. Since I already have the car on stands, I had a helper step on the brakes while I undid the axle nut socket. Good thing I bled the brakes over the weekend!
Hey, where'd the knuckle go?
Found it.
I made a few discoveries through this latest disassembly process. Unexpectedly, the tie rod end and lower ball joint, even with 308,000km on them, aren't completely worn out. The balls rotate easily in the sockets, but there isn't any slop per say. Nonetheless, I have new parts and you can bet I will install them. On the more negative side, the upper ball joint is clacking loosely in its socket, the lower control arm bushings are quite sloppy/creaky now that I can move the arm independently and, the biggest surprise, the front wheel bearing is nearly seized. I can barely turn it by hand. The upper ball joint is no problem since I already purchased the TruHart arms, but the wheel bearings and control arm bushings drive the need for more parts. This morning, I ordered SKF wheel bearings, Hardrace lower control arm bushings and a pair of decent used Civic EX lower control arms to install those new bushings in. The EX control arms are arguably superfluous for this project, but I'd love to be able to run a front sway bar. Here's hoping that everything will arrive in time for the weekend. I'm somewhat skeptical. On the upshot, there's still plenty to do, including tearing apart the other half of the front suspension, pressing the bearings and balljoints out of the steering knuckles and beginning the rebuild of my spare S40 transaxle.
For safekeeping, I greased and bagged the bearing surfaces on my CV axle (thankfully, both axles appear to be a-ok).
I feel like I am largely talking to myself at this point…but…stay tuned for more!
Starting with the right tie rod end, I'm thankful for my impact gun. There's no way the rusty cotter pins were coming out, but the castle nuts had no trouble shearing them off on the way out
It took some very deliberate hammering to get the tie rod end's taper to break free of the knuckle. I do have the separator tool, but it takes too long to dig out and set up in 90% of cases. Since I already have the car on stands, I had a helper step on the brakes while I undid the axle nut socket. Good thing I bled the brakes over the weekend!
Hey, where'd the knuckle go?
Found it.
I made a few discoveries through this latest disassembly process. Unexpectedly, the tie rod end and lower ball joint, even with 308,000km on them, aren't completely worn out. The balls rotate easily in the sockets, but there isn't any slop per say. Nonetheless, I have new parts and you can bet I will install them. On the more negative side, the upper ball joint is clacking loosely in its socket, the lower control arm bushings are quite sloppy/creaky now that I can move the arm independently and, the biggest surprise, the front wheel bearing is nearly seized. I can barely turn it by hand. The upper ball joint is no problem since I already purchased the TruHart arms, but the wheel bearings and control arm bushings drive the need for more parts. This morning, I ordered SKF wheel bearings, Hardrace lower control arm bushings and a pair of decent used Civic EX lower control arms to install those new bushings in. The EX control arms are arguably superfluous for this project, but I'd love to be able to run a front sway bar. Here's hoping that everything will arrive in time for the weekend. I'm somewhat skeptical. On the upshot, there's still plenty to do, including tearing apart the other half of the front suspension, pressing the bearings and balljoints out of the steering knuckles and beginning the rebuild of my spare S40 transaxle.
For safekeeping, I greased and bagged the bearing surfaces on my CV axle (thankfully, both axles appear to be a-ok).
I feel like I am largely talking to myself at this point…but…stay tuned for more!
no, not talking to yourself. I'm quite enjoying this thread, and the rapid progress. Good pics, as well.
I just found out that my new wheel bearings won't arrive until after Memorial Day. That's a disappointment. I can at least get the upper control arms changed out (the bolts will be another war) and possibly crack into the transmission rebuild over the weekend. I don't like to have too many endeavors on the go at once.
Good stuff! All that work and you cant even scuff and paint the trailing arms and such?
Sure would help a lot with rust prevention.
Sure would help a lot with rust prevention.
It's totally not worth painting components like that. The best paint in the world would last 5 days in a Canadian winter. It'll get salt blasted immediately. The paint wouldn't even stay adhered unless I got all the rust off first...which means media blasting or acid dipping. If I really cared about appearance here, I would sandblast and use POR15. But, the trailing arms are heavy gauge stampings that won't rust out any time soon. Going for function over form here.
I will get the car Krown rust protected once I'm done. That seems to help prolong things a bit.
There are plenty of products that you coat straight over rust and the encapsulate the surface to lock rust out and actually turn rust into a paintable surface.
I'm SO glad I live in north Texas. Rust not such a problem
Heh. Thanks for commenting. I'm no mechanic, I just enjoy tinkering with things.