Finally pics of my blue 2000 Civic Si
- Thread starter digbyfair4
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Thanks for the props, guys. To all the h8rs, well . . . thanks for being honest.
The yellow accent color came on the advice of a friend of mine who has placed at Nopi for 9 out of 10 years, so I think he knows what he's talking about. It took me a while to get used to, but the general idea with this car was to break from the pack and be different. Apparently that's working.
As far as numbers, well . . . dyno shows 215 hp to the flywheel 7500 rpm range, and estimated 1/4 time is 13.2. Not bad for no turbo or supercharging. This engine was performance tuned by Humble--they just tuned a turbo'd 2001 Si to nearly 400 horse and killed a Viper here at the drags this week.
The dilemma I'm facing right now is this: which mod to do next! Here are my three choices:
- Rims
- Seats
- Supercharger
If I choose the charger, I'm torn between the Jackson and the Vortech. Any thoughts?
The yellow accent color came on the advice of a friend of mine who has placed at Nopi for 9 out of 10 years, so I think he knows what he's talking about. It took me a while to get used to, but the general idea with this car was to break from the pack and be different. Apparently that's working.
As far as numbers, well . . . dyno shows 215 hp to the flywheel 7500 rpm range, and estimated 1/4 time is 13.2. Not bad for no turbo or supercharging. This engine was performance tuned by Humble--they just tuned a turbo'd 2001 Si to nearly 400 horse and killed a Viper here at the drags this week.
The dilemma I'm facing right now is this: which mod to do next! Here are my three choices:
- Rims
- Seats
- Supercharger
If I choose the charger, I'm torn between the Jackson and the Vortech. Any thoughts?
please show us.Originally posted by TurboCane
Bro, my car had dyno'd at 270hp to the WHEELS and I run with cars that run 13.0's. How do you have 55 less hp and run only 2 tenths slower????
I was wondering that also so thats why I asked for the dyno chart, hell why not the time sheets as well.better driverOriginally posted by TurboCane
Bro, my car had dyno'd at 270hp to the WHEELS and I run with cars that run 13.0's. How do you have 55 less hp and run only 2 tenths slower????
Like I said, those were computer estimated times, and we all know how accurate those are. LOL! This has been a garage queen for awhile, and I've only done a little street racing, no drags or timed events.
Also, I had it dyno'd before a lot of these mods, so I'm sure that the hp is off a bit. I'll try to track down a scanner and post those results for you guys, though.
The dyno and the estimated 1/4 tests were performed nearly 6 months apart and with about $4000 of mods between them. Obviously I've gained some horses, but without having dyno results to prove them, I don't want to BS about how much I THINK I have. I do know that she hauls like a bat out of hell.
Also, I had it dyno'd before a lot of these mods, so I'm sure that the hp is off a bit. I'll try to track down a scanner and post those results for you guys, though.
The dyno and the estimated 1/4 tests were performed nearly 6 months apart and with about $4000 of mods between them. Obviously I've gained some horses, but without having dyno results to prove them, I don't want to BS about how much I THINK I have. I do know that she hauls like a bat out of hell.
The painting process is actually quite simple . . . get the color code for your car's exterior paint (usually on the drivers side door panel) and go to an O'Reillys or a automotive shop that can do custom color matching.
Have them make a couple of aerosol cans with your car color, and also pick up a can of basic auto primer and clear coat. A can of paint thinner wouldn't be a bad idea either.
Then, take the pieces out of your car, sand them with a fine grit sand paper (800) and brush the dust off with a lint-free towel soaked in paint thinner. This will ensure an even finish. Apply 2-3 light coats of primer, allowing each coat to COMPLETELY DRY. This is very important. Remember that a lot of light coats is much better than one heavy coat. Once the priming stage is done, apply 3-4 coats of color from your custom aerosols. Let each coat dry, as before. Do the same process with the clear coat, after the color has dried. Each coat needs about 30 minutes to dry on a warm day, longer if it's cold or humid.
The paint thinner can come in handy if you mess up . . . you can go back to square one--the thinner will take off all of the primer, paint, and clear coat if you scrub a little bit.
Hope this helps.
Have them make a couple of aerosol cans with your car color, and also pick up a can of basic auto primer and clear coat. A can of paint thinner wouldn't be a bad idea either.
Then, take the pieces out of your car, sand them with a fine grit sand paper (800) and brush the dust off with a lint-free towel soaked in paint thinner. This will ensure an even finish. Apply 2-3 light coats of primer, allowing each coat to COMPLETELY DRY. This is very important. Remember that a lot of light coats is much better than one heavy coat. Once the priming stage is done, apply 3-4 coats of color from your custom aerosols. Let each coat dry, as before. Do the same process with the clear coat, after the color has dried. Each coat needs about 30 minutes to dry on a warm day, longer if it's cold or humid.
The paint thinner can come in handy if you mess up . . . you can go back to square one--the thinner will take off all of the primer, paint, and clear coat if you scrub a little bit.
Hope this helps.
Rice of the month . . . that's great. Gotta love the h8rs! LOL!
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