H22 vs B18 vs B16

SeanMc300

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well it sounds to me that all you care about is 1/4 miles times. But since its your daily driver, id go with the b18c, either 1 or 5. How much money you got???????????

you cant be cheap, quick, easy and reliable. you have to sacrifice the cheap part, and probably a little bit of the easy part too.

if i could have MY way and i was building a na drag car....id go with the b18c1, bore & sroke, higher comp, new cams, new valvetrain, free flowing exhaust, comptech icebox, forged rods, p&p head, new headgasket.

n/a is NOT, repeat NOT cheap.
 

imp0rtfre4k

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if u get a b18 and do an ls/vtec conversion you'll pick up an extra 40hp or so (from what i've heard)it will cost you around $600, i think its definatly worth it. i would go with the b18 cuz it has better tq, you'll be rollin off the line better then with a b16. my teg has a b18 (stock engine of course) and i love it
 


anekin007

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edhgreatone said:
does anybody know if a b16 can run 13's with out turbo or supercharger? would it be more money over to make a b16 run 13's or a b18???
i was hitting 14.5 about a year ago, on my damn heavy 00 si, i spent less then $2k. $1k more i would have broken into 13s. all my parts are basic off now, im just waiting one more year or so because my miles are getting too high, i got about 100k miles, then ill do a swap for a c1 or if i can find one, a c5. i dont know much about the laws in your state, but in cali. the engine must be made in the same year or newer then the chassis. plus smog over here is strict a$$ hell.
 

ImportRacerFF

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I would not recommend the ls/vtec. While it sounds good to have large displacement torquey bottom end with a vtec head there is a real good reason honda just didnt add the vtec head on their ls engine for the gsr version of the integra. The reason? Rod to stroke ratio. here is a link on an article if you have the time http://www.phatwhippincrx.20m.com/custom4.html

In summary the pistons hit the cylinder walls at an angle (rather then pushing only upwards they push horizontally as well) this causes your pistons to become mis-shaped and/or hurts the walls of the cylinder. It also means that even after new internals you can't raise the rpms (generally the limit is 8k and thats being risky). So what you end up building is an unreliable low reving torquey engine. Build a b16 or a b18c5, you will be much safer and since u can raise the rpms to 9,800 it will be much faster (of course you dont have to raise the rpm to make it fast but it is an option).
 


2GCIVI

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keep AC and power steering and go with the C5. Same horsepower as the h22 and alot less of a headache to install. I had a h22 in a hatch and my friend had the b18. His swap was so much cleaner and easier to do.
 

child_racer

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if you're giong with a motor swap, i'd go all out and spend the money to get the top notch motor. Since you wanna run 13's, get a j-spec B18C that'll put you over 200 flywheel hp or get the H22A which is about the same horsepower but more torque. the extra cash you spend on the motor will compensate for the cash you would put into the lower class motors..plus, you'd still have the option of building each of these two motors. The type R B18C would actually have more availability (parts wise) to build it as opposed to tha H22A. but both are two incredible power-houses to build off of. I'd only swap the ls/vtec, B16, or GSR if i were an impatient tuner or not well funded. good luck, hope this helps, i just kinda started ramblin' off things
 

edhgreatone

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wow your guys are so helpful thanks so much... okay h22 is out....... just because of the aftermarket back up.... ls/vtec and crv/vtec have always been out (there prob. my favorite but the damn things arn't reliable might as well drive a ford) now its down to the b16 and b18 can you guys help me with these..... i herd that the b18 can't rev up as high because of the compression ratio..... does this play a big effect? also i'm not that familiar with bore and stroke.... doesn't this change the 1.8 to something else and change your compression.... also won't this make the car less reliable? and what is a safe amount to bore and stroke?
 

child_racer

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edhgreatone said:
wow your guys are so helpful thanks so much... okay h22 is out....... just because of the aftermarket back up.... ls/vtec and crv/vtec have always been out (there prob. my favorite but the damn things arn't reliable might as well drive a ford) now its down to the b16 and b18 can you guys help me with these..... i herd that the b18 can't rev up as high because of the compression ratio..... does this play a big effect? also i'm not that familiar with bore and stroke.... doesn't this change the 1.8 to something else and change your compression.... also won't this make the car less reliable? and what is a safe amount to bore and stroke?

http://asian_e.tripod.com/Honda_Engine_Specs.htm
check that out for some Honda motor specs.

the only B18 motor that cant rev high is the B18B1 (LS).....B18C1 (GSR) B18C5 (US ITR) and B18C (j-spec ITR) redline @ 8200 as well as the B16A2 (Si) and B16B (CTR).

compression plays its biggest part when it comes to F/I. as for N/A, it still makes a differnce but it so easily on the lines of blowing a motor and ridin' clean. As far as a safe amount of bore and stroke....it all depends on your motor set-up and what you plan to get out of your motor.
 

edhgreatone

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what is a safe setup for the bore and stroke to run 13's all motor no turbo
 

big_dan

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i was wondering how much would a full b18 swap cost as opposed to a h22 ( i am talking full cost... motor and install, install bc i don't know too much about cars in general and i would probly want someone to do it for me) and also if anyone in the ky/ ohio area reads this,,, where i could go to get the swap and keep at least the power steering
 

edhgreatone

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the b18c1 would be about 1,000 less... the h22a i got quote for about $5,000 after everything if you want to keep powersteering and have the right mount kits
 

FhCRubarb

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Look in the video forums. I dled this video of all these B16 turbos running good times.
One hatch had like 22 psi with 450 whp or something ran 11.
 

baby99si

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Of course b16 turbos are going to run good times.
 

big_dan

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i think i prolly am going to go for the b18 bc i would like to turbo it sometime later...

and btw thanks for the info. also would that $4,000 be for the full swap (engine and install)?
 

never2old

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edhgreatone said:
Ok it seems that everyone is against the h22..... what I was going to do originally was to swap the b16 and mod it to get it faster but then this guy told me about the b18 and it is way more torque then the b16 and you'll start off at 15 flat instead of 15.7 with the b16 and its only a couple hundred more..... so I did all the research like a did with the b16 and everything i would need... then this other guy told me those engines are slow compared to the h22... with the h22 in your car you'll be running 13.8 with nothing done to it.... well I knew this couldn't be that great of a swap because if it was everyone would be doing it the engine was so cheap...... but there ended up being all these problems you run into with this swap... so i'm back at zero again.... and i'm stuck on which engine to get.... my goal is to run low 13's on street tires and 12's with slick..... and most importantly I want a RELIABLE car.... i'd perfer to go N/A but if turbo or supercharger is a must i'll do that as long as it won't mess up my engine... please post your opinions on which engine will get me to low 13's the quickest, easiest, cheapest, and most RELIABLE <- most important... Thanks for all your help....

-I DO NOT WANT TO KEEP MY STOCK ENGINE PLEASE NOBODY SAY TURBO IT
Damm I love this forum....I've been doing the same research regarding the swaps of these motors. I pesonally am leaning towards the H22. The way I look at it is 1) going from like 100 hp to over 200 is plenty for me..2) for a couple hundred more buck, you get more hp, more torque than that of the b18...3) Im using as a daily driver and dont plan on doing a damm thing more to the motor other than basic headers, intake, etc...

And like some post said, you can keep ac. Not sure on power steering(dont care though cause i dont have it now anyways). AC is mandatory in SoCal....

The only other option I have really cosidered is a B20vtec.. Anybody have any comments on this one?
 

RICDOGG

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edhgreatone said:
wow your guys are so helpful thanks so much... okay h22 is out....... just because of the aftermarket back up....
so you dont want an h22 because you can't get a cf valvecover... :what:
 

edhgreatone

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haha this is so old... i am not even doing any of this... i'm getting a greddy turbo for my car and it will be faster then any of these swaps!
 

big_dan

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i think im gonna go for the b18 bc im gonna have to work my butt of this summer to get anywhere close to any kind of swap (when your 17 $4,000 doesn't come easily) and i am prolly gonna turbo it next summer if i get the b18... and i like my power steering =)
 


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