Saw that after i asked lol. Wish i had a si! lol
Hendo's EF hatch project
- Thread starter Hendo
- Start date
Planned on it. Lots of pics. Probably gonna happen next Saturday when there's only a few guys at his shop. Hooray for the parts washer too lol
One less thing to do lol
Pics under the lids (both ends):
Cleaned up pretty good, gonna need a lint roller or something to get the damn dog hair off the bump box lol
Yeah, I'm ashamed, it's pretty gross. Figure I gotta post it though, or people are gonna think I bought it boosted. Don't want that, not when I'm about to give up skin, blood and sweat in large quantities.
And before anybody notices, yes, the damn battery is just sitting there and knocks around under hard acceleration. Anybody got a link to an aftermarket dress-up part to replace it??
Cleaned up pretty good, gonna need a lint roller or something to get the damn dog hair off the bump box lol
Yeah, I'm ashamed, it's pretty gross. Figure I gotta post it though, or people are gonna think I bought it boosted. Don't want that, not when I'm about to give up skin, blood and sweat in large quantities.
And before anybody notices, yes, the damn battery is just sitting there and knocks around under hard acceleration. Anybody got a link to an aftermarket dress-up part to replace it??
Yep, was going to go OEM or Cometic after boost. But since I'm just going to build the whole dang thing at once I'm not gonna even bother with the Fel-pro. I know what I want to do, but I was up in the air about how to go about it. I've decided to do it all at once rather than in stages, so now I have a spare head gasket and cam gear lol
Any thoughts on a thicker cometic gasket to lower compression?
My reading says that it's good for a couple tenths of a point, tops. Rods and pistons are the main things that control that. I'm going with FJ custom length rods and Vitara pistons:
http://fjdistributors.com/product_info.php?cPath=58&products_id=285
Final CP with the Z6 head and this rod/piston combination should be something about 9.5:1, which is high enough that it won't dog it without boost, but not so high that detonation will be of extra concern. Vitara pistons on stock length rods can have a really low CR (gottraction says something like 7.5:1), so longer rods fix it some, plus the head swap is good for a full point raise in the compression.
Well, the old motor may be forcing my hand, and it may get yanked sooner rather than later. Started having some stuttering/stumbling when cruising at lower RPMs (about 2000ish) when it's warm. Starts fine, idles fine, accelerates fine, but after it warms up, when I leave it in gear and hold a speed or decelerate (with it in gear), it starts bogging down. I can floor it and after a couple seconds it'll pick back up, and it seemed to do okay cruising at freeway speed (3k+rpm). Damn thing. I did cap/rotor/plugs/wires less than two months ago. I peeked in the distributor, looked fine, replaced the fuel filter, checked all the wiring I could see and nothing. Unplugged the MAP sensor while it was running and it shut down right away. TPS? Bad injectors? Fuel pump? PCV? EACV? It does burn a good amount of oil with the bad rings, I'm hoping somethings just gunked up. Took it to the shop and dropped it off last night after spending all day futzing with it. We'll see what they say this afternoon. Might be getting garaged. I really don't want to drive my Jeep and get 16 mpg everywhere, and I really don't want to bust out the credit for parts. But, we'll see.
i had the same exact problem with my dpfi i think it's the same. like when i was crusing at low rpm's the car would just start cutting out spitting and sputtering but only at low rpm's? it was like the car had to be ripped on for it to be alright lol. i also checked everything and couldn't find the problem. all i knew was sometime's it got so bad that i had to stop shut the car off and then restart it then it would be fine again? it was weird??? i cleaned the iacv, got a dizzy checked other sensor's and s**t i couldn't find anything wrong? i think it was some kind of ecu code or something. good luck man and that's a nice hatch keep us posted!!!
Of course. It's running fine now that it's at the shop. So I get to waste money on an inspection that did nothing. I may change out my igniter, I've got one lying around and it's given me problems before. Plus I can do it in my sleep from experience lol
Yay, $90 to have them disconnect the battery for a few hours then tell me "it's working fine now, so the computer may be going bad, you should take it to the dealer." Really? So they can charge me another $200 to tell me they'd like to charge me $600-800 for a new computer? Gonna take it out for some driving tomorrow, see if it's truly ok. I drove it for about 20 minutes and it did seem fine but the real test will be on the freeway.
I don't live somewhere that they're readily available. The midwest sucks for Hondas. If I b-swap, I need a motor, tranny, axles, ecu, mounts, etc etc etc, plus everything I need to buy for what I'm doing anyway (turbo, upgraded rods etc etc). Why would I want to spend $1500 on a 'full swap' when I can spend $150 on a head and intake? My horsepower goals are easily attainable with one cam, and since I'm modifying it heavily anyway, there's no advantage. Plus I won't have to do something silly like mount the motor low, cut the underside of my hood or swap the hood altogether to make it fit. I have everything I need except a timing belt, block and head upgrade parts and the bits and pieces like oil lines for the turbo, various hoses and what not. I've seen enough D16 dyno pulls above 300whp using a setup similar to what I'm going for that I'm not worried about b vs d. I've already got some d-series bolt ons, and I have an extra set of axles for a d tranny. I'm too invested to swap just to swap, especially to something like a stock b16 that isn't much faster to begin with.
Keep it up bro. And i woulda ran some type of fuel induction service just to make sure injectors and all was clean. Pour very small amounts of seafoam thru a vaccum line, let it suck it up and run like half a bottle through. Low rpms low nearly closed throttle sounds like a fuel issue. Possible dirty injector or something.