how much boost

[silentdaredevil]

how much PSI is safe on a JDM b18c with stock internals

 

[PANGES]

5.5-7... max 10 (not so safe)

 

[especko]

i would run 10 max on stock stuff, i have seen people running 12 psi stock on the b18b ls motors

 

[banzai]

12-14, with the correct parts and tuning

 

[HiGH_CiTY]

my buddy runs 15psi on his stock LS w/ hondata (and a bunch of other nice upgrades). he bumped it up to 18 a couple times too. that thing is friggin fast but has massive traction issues. we'll see how long the motor lasts tho. i would do like 10-12 to be safe on an LS w/ fuel mngmt, no afc hack. on a gsr i would go 8 maybe 9

 

[silentdaredevil]

then i will just build the internals to be safe

 

[element_323]

I would say 7-8 to be safe. Honestly Evan2 should know. He used to have a boosted gsr.

 

[banzai]

running 26 psi should be safe

 

[Destroy]

anything over 13 would be unsafe.....go over 15 and sooner or later you will crack a sleeve

 

[SeanMc300]

depends on size of turbo.....

 

[silentdaredevil]

i was looking at the drag Gen 3 from modacar.com the size is T04/T3

 

[Ravage70]

sleeves dont crack that easy
there are stock blocks with internals running 500hp

on stock everything i wouldnt go over 260whp

 

[Noeladams]

5-10 lbs. Callin out EVAN2!!!

 

[silentdaredevil]

wow 500 horse would be nice... expensive but nice. my 1.6 just isnt getting it done right now

 

[99cleanCIVICex]

8-12 lbs should be no problem , depanding on the condition of that "JDM" motor!

 

[Inigo Montoya]

depends on size of turbo.....

only intelligent post.

and, if you read a bit more (but its coo... everyone is new at some point), youd read that b18c = bad turbo motor due to high compression. High compression does yield more power, but it unwieldy. It is harder to get the propper AF ratio, which in turn leads to:

a) running too rich = poor performance
b) running too lean = detonation = broken parts

b18b is a much better platform as it is cheaper and lower compression. You could sleeve, piston/rods, p&p, and upgrade the cams and valve train (and possibly get an LSD) on a b18b for the price of a hype-r.

In conclusion, you can get more reliable power out of a b18b than you could with a b18c.

-jake... the honda-tech/turbod16/club civic turbo troll.

 

[Inigo Montoya]

oh yea.. one last thing.

engine management is the key. a poor tune even with a built block spells trouble.

From worst to best... (In my humble e-pinion)

1. none (durrr)
2. FMU (not quite precise)
3. VAFC/missing link (runs rich)
4. Uberdata (free... i havent met a tuner at a shop who will use it... maybe if i asked how much of a bribe it would cost they would)
5. Hondata (tried and proven... can get really spendy tho)
6. AEM EMS (stand-alone pwnge. Expect to pay 2 grand on the hardware and first tune)

 

[Tiso]

^^^^ yeah what he said. How much boost you running right now?

 

[Ravage70]

u dont run a missing link with an afc smarty pants
u run the missing link with the fmu

and an afc doesnt necessarily run rich it runs way to advanced

btw i had the most intelligent post before ur double super large semi precise explanation of things :p

 

[Inigo Montoya]

u dont run a missing link with an afc smarty pants
u run the missing link with the fmu

and an afc doesnt necessarily run rich it runs way to advanced

btw i had the most intelligent post before ur double super large semi precise explanation of things :p

people do run the vafc/missing link hack.. or maybe i misread them and theyre running a FMU and the missing link and the VAFC.. i dunno. All my info is from reading... no first hand experience. *shrug* Someday hopefully... as for now though... i need a reliable daily driver that isnt going to rape my wallet. So stock motor it is.