You mean like the top one is frozen to the spring? or you mean the lower one that locks the shock bottom to the threaded part is seized?
There is always the old method of the hammer and the flathead to get those to come apart.
My 97 Turbo Coupe
- Thread starter Diana Nam
- Start date
There is always the old method of the hammer and the flathead to get those to come apart.
yea top one that the spring sits on i would use my hammer but its late and don't want to be making noise tomorrow i'll be tryig to get it unstuck so i can lower it abit but if anything i might have to raise the fronts halfway back upor 1/3 way back up kinda like having that forward rake stance
Yea I wanted to lower it more
jakeeton1002
Respected
I'm assuming you had to roll the fenders for that fitment, but did you pull them as well? I'm looking into some 16x8s, and some people say you do need to roll and pull your fenders, some say you don't.
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Yep my settlement is about to finish end of this month so been busy cleaning out my room all my stuff in the garage packing things up and s**t I traded my old polished one for these with like 50$ cash on top since the 2 tires had camber wear
Yea all my fenders are rolled and with the 0 offset yea I had to pull the front fenders alittle but to clear on full lock to lock since that's when it touches
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jakeeton1002
Respected
Did you pull them yourself or did a shop do it for you? And if a shop did it, how much did they charge?
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I did my self I just pull it with my hands but I kept the wheels turned and had friends sit in the car to simulate weight load on the car and just pulled it enough for me to slide 3 cc in between since I didn't want to over do it and I didn't really want to put some crazy camber. All my camber are almost near factory settings
i forgot to mention in the update that i did some cutting on the inside of the cabin for more weight shaving, ran out of cutting discs :/
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I suggest black! That's what I'm going withjust wish i had the money for a cagethat would tie the interior up really nicely. any suggestion on carpet colors?
Is the plan to only make the car fast? Cutting structural components out is not recommended
Lol so you saved like 3 lbs?
The car is gonna be caged actually the car is cut up way more my hood is just the outer skin and trunk as well all that back there is gonna be cut out. You be surprised how how heavy all these metals are they look thin and light but its not and everything adds up
Mmk
I feel if weight was important you'd buy real light weight parts, cf goodies, light non knockoff race rims. Remember you gotta cut 8lbs to get a single horsepower. All this hack saw garbage isn't worth it. If you're going for "big numbers" like you claim, what's 2-4 more from removing structural parts of the car?
Weight is important being that this car will be in a actual competition events. You got others that you're trying to beat against for that first place prize. For now like I said before I'm gonna be running in the 11.50 index street class. That also means if I run times faster then 11.00 I would be automatically be disqualified and loose the the entire race event. there is a lot more rules and restriction on modification to the car depending on the class your competing in also those fiber glass and carbon fiber doors don't have side impact beams that the stock door does and as per in the rule you can only use those doors if you have a cage and have side bars welded to the cage. so I won't using doors like those until I move up to the 10.50 index class, 10.50 index requires a cage to compete so that being said those fiber glass and carbon fiber doors will be useful then. Like I said before I'm not building this car as a daily street car, I'm building it as a race car that just also gonna be driven in the streets. big difference in the two
