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I know everyone recommends golden ealgle sleeves but I might get darton a MID sleeve kit. Do the sleeves do well for up to 25 pounds of boost? I plan on running 15+ will a daily driven street legal car.
 


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silentdaredevil said:
and this does what?


If you burn a cylinder, you won't have to replace the whole block.
 

Exospeed*com

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here's what a sleeved block looks like:



Shown is a B16 Sleeved block to 81.5mm The setup was a 9:1 compression piston for use in a setup boosting about 15psi.
Our blocks are good for 40psi and more. But 90% of hardcore turbo hondas are in the 15-25psi at most and these are plenty good enough for a setup like that. These are the same blocks we use on our 9 sec Race Engines. and they handle 30-35psi on these race cars just fine.


Here's Eric Del Rosario's Exedy Sponsored Integra using one of our race blocks. best time to date 9.30

back to the subject: Sleeving your block is a good choice since you plan on boosting over 15psi. its best to sleeve the block already at that point so its already strengtened to handle that much power and more in the future.
 


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silentdaredevil said:
im not really sure what sleeves do is it so u can have a bigger piston or what im a little confused about what its used for

Well theres 2 main reasons why racers choose to sleeve their block. 1 is to be able to handle more boost than the stock block can handle. This usually is recommended at 15psi and above for B-series motors and 12-14 psi and above for D-series motors. I know you can be succesful with more boost than this on a stock block. But this is just a conservative guideline on when to Sleeve your block.

Another reason is for bigger displacement. This is more common in All Motor setups. In an all motor setup, you want to sleeve the block to increase the piston size to get more cylinder volume. You can go bigger bore on a turbo motor as well but its not the main reason that racers go this route. A common example to go big bore on a B-series motor is from a 1.8L LS or GSR block which is an 81mm bore. When you bore to an 84mm, it becomes about 2.0L Keep in mind on a b16, an 84mm bore only takes it to about 1.8L
The bigger bore increases the torque on an all motor setup.

WIth a sleeved block, theres limitations on bore size too. All Motor is max 87mm bore on a B-series and reliable bore for street is 84mm bore. For turbo we usually prefer keeping it at 81.5mm but can be bored to 84mm if thats your preference. The reason I personally believe big bore isnt needed, is that you can make the Large HP numbers on the 81mm bore. Bigger Displacement is good, but not totally necesarry since you can just increase the boost on a turbo motor.

I can go on and on with this subject, but these are the basic facts on choosing the right sleeve size for you.

Wil
 

silentdaredevil

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Exospeed*com said:
Well theres 2 main reasons why racers choose to sleeve their block. 1 is to be able to handle more boost than the stock block can handle. This usually is recommended at 15psi and above for B-series motors and 12-14 psi and above for D-series motors. I know you can be succesful with more boost than this on a stock block. But this is just a conservative guideline on when to Sleeve your block.

Another reason is for bigger displacement. This is more common in All Motor setups. In an all motor setup, you want to sleeve the block to increase the piston size to get more cylinder volume. You can go bigger bore on a turbo motor as well but its not the main reason that racers go this route. A common example to go big bore on a B-series motor is from a 1.8L LS or GSR block which is an 81mm bore. When you bore to an 84mm, it becomes about 2.0L Keep in mind on a b16, an 84mm bore only takes it to about 1.8L
The bigger bore increases the torque on an all motor setup.

WIth a sleeved block, theres limitations on bore size too. All Motor is max 87mm bore on a B-series and reliable bore for street is 84mm bore. For turbo we usually prefer keeping it at 81.5mm but can be bored to 84mm if thats your preference. The reason I personally believe big bore isnt needed, is that you can make the Large HP numbers on the 81mm bore. Bigger Displacement is good, but not totally necesarry since you can just increase the boost on a turbo motor.

I can go on and on with this subject, but these are the basic facts on choosing the right sleeve size for you.

Wil
extremly helpful thanks
 

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exospeed, im curious as to why it seems you use open deck sleeves, which seems to go against conventional wisdom.
 

dracing

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Anyone think the block I posted is a good buy? Click on the link for more info on the block.
 

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handlebarsfsr said:
exospeed, im curious as to why it seems you use open deck sleeves, which seems to go against conventional wisdom.
What do you mean by against conventional wisdom. If you see the type of blocks most racers use. Its an open deck sleeve. If you do a random survey of people that have sleeved blocks. Majority will have open deck sleeves.
I dont discourage Solid Deck sleeves at all. My point is that Closed Deck sleeves are not necesarry in Majority of use out there. The open deck style is good enough for most of us. We do about 5-10 complete sleeved race engines per month and we have customers send us about 10-12 blocks per month to get sleeved without build up. Out of all the blocks that go through us, only 1 out of every 25 will be closed deck. Most setups are good with open deck sleeves. Every single all motor race car out there, all they need are open deck. I've seen the Skunk2 blocks and they are all open deck sleeves. Bisi's block are also open deck as well as Erick Aguilars. And on turbo cars, open deck sleeves are being used in Hot Rod cars that have done 8s.

A closed deck sleeved block obviously will cost more. They will range in the $1100-$1300 to do the service with the sleeves.
An open deck sleeve is only about $880-950. Theres a significant difference in price, but when you think about it, theres no huge need for the closed deck in Most cases.
 

dracing

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I've decided to buy a block that is already sleeved and let my local shop build it and install it. I think that should run me $2000+. As long as the end results are what I want then price dosen't matter( it'll just take a while to earn). I plan on having the block in a month or 2. I'll post pics when I get the block. If anyone has looked at the link above the pic I posted in my previous reply please let me know what you think. I think the aeb( I think) sleeves are installed and the price is for the block and sleeves. If not then I can get a block sleeved with golden eagle sleeves for about $1500.
 

Mr. Lin

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It must be nice to be 17 and be able to turbo your civic.
 

dracing

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Mr. Lin said:
It must be nice to be 17 and be able to turbo your civic.
What is that supposed to mean? I have a full time job workin 40+ hrs a wek. The only bills I have is a phone bill and car insurance. I try to save money to fix my car. I'm not goin to be able to afford a turbo for awhile. I'm getting the car ready for turbo. If I save money then I should be able to get a turbo by next summer.
 

Mr. Lin

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Yeah, I wish I was able to have the money for a car and the time.
I work 36hrs/week because that's all they allowed me to get and now I can only work 15hr/week because of soccer and school... not to mention the fact that I have to help my father prepare the house for sale.
 

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Mr. Lin said:
Yeah, I wish I was able to have the money for a car and the time.
I work 36hrs/week because that's all they allowed me to get and now I can only work 15hr/week because of soccer and school... not to mention the fact that I have to help my father prepare the house for sale.
Oh, The only way I have the job I do is because I got into some trouble in school and decided to quite and get my ged. It was either get my ged or be in high school until I was 20 or somethin like that. No it's not because of bad grades. I made decent grades and never got held back. I just made a few bad decisions. I just try to get as much money as possible to fix up my car. It's one of the only things that make me happy.
 

Exospeed*com

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I Cause Cancer said:
whats the differences between open and closed decks?
Looks wise, the open deck sleeves have an open coolant passageway, the area around the cylinder walls itself.

Closed Deck sleeves are the type that the sleeves cover the passage area and only have holes in the middle for the coolant to pass through.
 

Mr. Lin

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Are there benefits to open decks and closed decks or is it just the amount of coolant passing around the block?
 

Exospeed*com

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some will prefer a closed deck since it seems like it looks more solid to the block other than the free floating look fo the Open deck. but like what I've said before. 30-40psi on an open deck block has proven to work with no problem. So I really dont see the need for closed deck in most setups.
How many of racers out there are doing 40psi anyways. I only know of a handful and even those are full race setups.
 


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