"The Mothership" - 1998 Civic - Maintenance Log

[ctag]

As luck would have it, an update!

It was both sunny and considerably warmer today, so I parked the car and hit it with a garden hose. The remaining leak is definitely on the driver side of the car, more testing needs to be done to determine if its from the seal around the window or some where else.

 

[lethal6]

Ouch. Yeah, there is a huge reason house carpet padding isn't used in a vehicle. There are tons of products out there that kill the sound a considerable amount while not soaking up any available moisture.

As far as the humid environment, it's very possible that the carpet wasn't dried out completely after the house padding used it as a filter while soaking up all the water. The amount of moisture in the car could have soaked into the seats as well. When there is that much moisture in a vehicle, it can be a huge pain in the butt to dry it all out completely.

 

[ctag]

lethal6, that's pretty much how it went down Luckily we got a day or two of nice weather and most of the fabrics and seats are dry now.

The leak is fixed. I had to lay in the trunk while someone else showered it with water to find the source, but a tiny nick in the rear window seal was routing water directly into a crack in the metal seam.

I'm glad that's over

Next up, I want to fix up the trunk to have bungie tie downs for things like my roadside assistance kit, I need to pick out new headlights, and purchase a new motor for the passenger side window.

Right now I have more buying power than I'll have the rest of the year, any additional suggestions for the headlight housings?

 

[conor97hx]

Get CTR headlights!

 

[ctag]

D: I don't think I got an email for your post, conor97hx. CTR is on the headlight options list now x)

Unfortunately, I'm incredibly busy with school and work this semester, so I'm just leaving a note here of things to look into later.

The trunk seal seems to be holding up, no more obvious puddles, which is nice. BUT....
Now the doors are leaking. Both of them, right at the doorjam in front of the speaker by the footwell. Every time I get in my car while/after it rains, the panelling beneath both doors has water on it; the leak is such that I can't tell if the water came from the seal around the door, or from the dash panelling itself :-\

While digging around to see if there was more water inside the dash panelling, I found what looks to be an air filter behind the glovebox?! I have previously searched for topics on cabin air filters, and was under the impression that American Hondas don't have them. So if this isn't an air filter... What is it? In any case, it's filthy and I want to replace it pretty badly. Pictures when I have a spare moment.

--

Got a chance to sit in the car while it was raining yesterday. I'm pretty sure the water is coming in through the door's window. There was a plastic film I removed a few years back while cleaning the doors and installing those throwaway Walmart speakers. I bet water is getting around the base of the window and just falling into the car where that plastic used to deflect it. I'll look into a material to use to patch it, may be a good time to replace the driver side window motor as well.

 

[ctag]

The window leak has become a smaller issue now that the rainy season here is over. I'm still looking at putting new plastic in the doorframes.

Today I changed the oil and MTF.
- 10W30 High Mileage engine oil ~ 3.3 Qt
- Honda OEM MTF ~ 2Qt

The list for summer car work:
[done!] Replace headlamps (in the mail!)
[done!] Clean the IAC / Adjust idle speed up to 500 RPM
- Align tires
- Flush coolant
- Fix window leak
- Fix passenger window seal (is melting onto the window!)
[done!] Replace fuel filter
- CNC new trunk bed from MDF
- Get preliminary software written for the in-car computer.

 

[ShinsenTuner]

Went through the whole thread, I'm glad you're having fun with it and working on what you can with the resources you have. It's that kind of enthusiasm and interest in learning that keeps the community going.


I am parting out my 97 HX Coupe that had a bad trunk leak (literally to the point where the trunk pan rusted off) so if you need any extra parts give me a shout, I'd be more than happy to give you some parts for the price of shipping.

 

[ctag]

ShinsenTuner,
Sorry to hear about your HX, that really sucks
Thanks for the offer, I'll let you know if I think of something!
For the moment though, the only part I'm really concerned with locating a replacement for is the transmission, which has steadily declined over the past few years.

Updates!

The MTF change has made a considerable improvement in shifting, I think I'm going to be more adamant about changing the MTF at the appropriate interval..

Yesterday I decided to go ahead with the fuel filter replacement, and had a pretty bad time of it. The shop that I take my car to is actually something more like a machine shop, so there isn't much in the way of car-specific tools. Even so, I was sorely disappointed to have the fuel filter half-off and find that we really just don't have a full set of wrenches anywhere... So I had to re-attach the filter (ugh) and drive home to use my own tools. Working in twilight I was able to remove the old filter, and more-or-less attach the new one. I feel like the bottom seal didn't go back on as securely as it was; and I don't know what kind of flare nut wrenches to buy (inch or metric?). All in all it went pretty poorly as I also crunched my hand with a wrench and marred the nut for the filter's seal.

You can kinda see here that there's a mm or two of exposed thread on the bottom of the filter. Also, I guess you have my VIN now

The car seems to idle a little better with the new filter, before it used to be around 100rpm and threaten to stall, now its a little higher and more constant; though I may still adjust the idle directly to bring it up higher.

To make up for mess with the fuel filter, I went ahead and installed the new headlamps that came in the mail! They were just el-cheapo housings, I have no expectations that they'll hold up well.

And with the hood closed

Next up: coolant change!

Thanks,

 

[ShinsenTuner]

When you're ready to do the transmission work, give me a shout. I have a full OEM Exedy replacement clutch and flywheel (brand new from Rockauto) for sale. College student discount applies here too

 

[ctag]

Awesome, thanks ShinsenTuner! The thought of tearing out the transmission is a little scary, but I may get it this summer, or drive it until I don't have a choice

More shoddy maintenance work went on yesterday. The idle was still lower than I'd like. Hayne's manual says 670+-50, I'm looking for 500+-50, and right now its at ~250.

So.... I adjusted the idle set screw

And got it bumped up to about 400.

Next I tried cleaning the IAC, though it didn't clean up very well, and the wire mesh over one side was punctured.

Oh well.. Scrubbed, washed, and reinstalled. At first, I thought I'd really dun goofed, because the engine refused to idle, and would just bounce the RPMs as if I'd removed the brake booster line. But after a few minutes it settled down, and now idles pretty close to 500

Thanks,

 

[conor97hx]

I'd imagine hondas are metric wrenches. Glad to see you're still doing work to this.

 

[jameswanser]

Yup, get some metric flare nut wrenches for your Civic. I'm sure at some point you may need them for the clutch or brake lines as well, so they're a good investment. By the way, I changed my filter on my 99 Civic a couple of years ago (right after I bought the car) and it was a pain. I've changed fuel filters several times on the 92 Civic, and never had as much trouble as the 99 gave me.

 

[ctag]

Thanks guys o/

I purchased a set of metric flare nut wrenches.

Dunno if I remembered to follow up on this, but I flushed the coolant about once a week for three weeks during the summer, and then put an antifreeze mix back in. Need to remember to check the mix for freeze point before the weather gets much colder.

Changed the oil tonight:
- 3.5 Qt Pennzoil High Mileage 5w30
- 3312 Bosch Premium Filter

Only got 3 Qt out of the car. Bottom of the oil pan and engine was slick. I couldn't find the source of the leak, will have to check again in a few days or go get some UV dye.

Both of the rubber "Tower of Hanoi" boots on the end of the axle that connects to the wheels are busted, and have flung all of the grease out. I'm a little pissed that the shop I visit for alignment didn't mention it, since they've been cracked for forever, and I just thought it was OK. Need to do some research to see what's required for me to fix this myself.

Now that I've seen the boots, I also recall that there's a clicking sound when I make a hard turn.

Also, one of the rubber motor mounts is perforated with pretty deep cracks. I'm wondering if that is why my engine is apt to lurch so much while shifting 1st and 2nd.

Work to be done. Shame that this is both an intensely busy year of school, and we're on the doorstep of months of cold weather.

I'm thinking of buying a motorcycle. It's hard to justify the cost, but I want one (slightly impulsive) and I also want reliable alternate transportation so that I can put the Mothership out of commission for a week at a time and get some work done on it. Just a thought for now, though I've wasted plenty of time on Craigslist looking at Honda Nighthawks and Rebels.

 

[ctag]

New CV axles installed

Parts:
- Both front CV axles ~$150
- Deadblow Hammer $10.89
- 32mm Socket for axle nut $9.80
- Replacement nut for driver side suspension yolk $2.71
- Ball joint separator + pry bar $25.70

Time:
Two days, left the car overnight when we couldn't get the castle nut off of the lower arms. Had to wait for the automotive store to open the next day to buy a ball joint separator. Total of about 8 hours.

OK, to start off we (myself and a friend) jacked the car up and removed both wheels. Then removed both lower castle nuts (directly below the brake disks) and wailed for hours on the ball joint; it didn't budge. We ended up giving up after four two of hammering on the joints to no avail.

The next morning I bought the deadblow hammer and ball joint separator. That did the trick, and with a little help from an impact driver on the separator, we got the joints apart. Then replacing the two CV axles was straightforward, pulled the old ones out, snapped the new ones in, and lost about a tablespoon of MTF.

Up on bottle stands.

Got the castle nut off, and then COULD NOT get the stupid lower joint free.

Goodnight Mothership

Next morning: joint free and old axle removed!

Passenger side looking in at the oil seal to the transmission. Looks OK to me.. Didn't change it.

Breaking free the driver side joint with the new tool.

Looks like there's a vacuum hose next to the tie rod that's just loose? Not sure what's going on there..

New CV axle installed!

And that's a happy little car Hood hasn't been latched back down yet in this picture.

Cool, cool. Was excellent to have my friend's help, the benefit of having someone nearby who has an understanding of this mechanic work is invaluable! Also, I've got another maintenance item on my list now: replace the tie rods, since they're rusted and the driver side boot is broken.

 

[AllStockHatch]

Good work. Did you put the divet in the new axle nut? Don't want that coming off.

 

[ctag]

Hrm, yeah the nut doesn't seem bent in that picture. I definitely punched both down, so I guess I did that right after taking the picture

*Edit
Yeah, you can see the nut punched down in the picture, the divot is at the top of the axle end.

 

[jameswanser]

that hose you mentioned near the tie rod should connect to the boot. It actually runs from one boot to the other. When I replaced my tie rods earlier this year, had the hardest time reaching that tube to install to the new boots. And that ball joint separator tool REALLY makes it a lot easier. I've done the "beat the Hell out of it with a hammer" method before, even using a torch to heat the stud (on a broken balljoint). This tool is definitely worth the price.

 

[ctag]

@jameswanser Awesome, thanks! I'll make sure that it gets hooked back up when I replace those tie rods and boots.

Yeah, for a few minutes we sat around going "There's an oxy torch right here, do we just torch the joint to get it loose?" But I got scared of burning up the little sleeve of rubber above the joint since there wasn't a replacement handy.

Just noting here: I'm concerned that on the outer edge the axle has an elaborate mechanism to keep it fixed to the wheel (punching in the flare on the nut), but the inner side that connects to the transmission just pops into place with a little clip. It's somewhat unsettling to consider how easy it is to just pop that "extension cylinder" from the transmission.

 

[jameswanser]

With the knuckle attached to the upper and lower arms, as well as the shock in place, the axle isn't going ANYWHERE short of an accident. The weakest point of that whole setup is probably the lower ball joint itself. My wife's CR-V popped an axle when the lower ball joint stud broke, but that's the only time I've ever had an axle come out of the transmission case.
Bye the way, when you get ready to tackle the tie rods, do yourself a favor and either borrow or buy a tie rod tool. It's very tight near that inner tie rod, and with the proper tool it literally takes less than a minute to remove or install the inner tie rod. Oh, and get yourself some silicone grease. You need to plan ahead with that stuff, because it's not something everyone keeps in stock. I replaced the tie rods on both the 92 and 99 Civics this year. Was doable on the 99 without the tool, and a necessity with the 92.

 

[ctag]

@jameswanser, Thanks! I'll keep that in mind when I go back to get the tie rods fixed up.

The semester is over. That much closer to being done with this school

Back in November I found another gas log notebook. All in all there are 4; I have the two most recent. Using the discovery from the trip to Phreaknic back in 2014, I crunched a rough low end estimate of the mileage on this engine.
Result: ~304,839 miles.
If the ECU/dash is to be trusted, then I've put about 30,000 miles on the Mothership since it was purchased in 2011.

So this past Tuesday I took some time to play around. The clear coat on the car has always had some etched stains from bird droppings, and I wanted to see what could be done about it.
I gathered rubbing compound, a clay bar kit, some detailing spray, and paste wax. Started with the rubbing compound and had to spend an obscene amount of time on it to get any results. Then I went over the area with the clay kit to remove as much of the compound from the clear coat cracks as I could. Went over it with a detailing spray to make sure the area was nice and clean, and then finished with a good buffing of wax. The attached image is of the first stain I worked on, and so it got the best results, as the daylight and nice temperature waned I hurried and got more mediocre results on the latter half of the dozen or so similar spots.

Before image

After image (taken the next day)

Not entirely gone, but better than it used to be Just getting those deep crevices in the clear coat cleaner helped a lot. I don't have any delusions of turning the car into a show stopper, but it was nice to do something trivial with my time after jogging around with my hair on fire at college for the past few months.

That'll probably be it until this summer. Take care